Doing some work this weekend

I'm replacing the clutch on my A/C compressor. If anyone wants me to, I can take pics and post. If no one wants pics, I'm not going to bother.....

I'm also doing the shocks, finally. I'm going with Gabriel Ultras since I'm going to be borrowing tools from Autozone anyways to do the compressor clutch.

Also doing a fuel filter since it's been about 20K miles.

I'm also thinking about doing plugs although I've only got 56K on my 02'. I've got pinging problems that force me to use 89 octane regularly. I was thinking maybe new plugs would allow me to go back to regular considering gas is getting absolutely outrageous....Any thoughts on whether or not the plugs are worth it? Also, is it necessary to get the Denso double platinum when I can just get regular platinum?

Photos are always helpful - Maybe even for you.

The plugs are direct fire, so you don't NEED to use double platinum, but for a few extra bucks, why not? Consider NGK, Champion, or the OEM plugs (Denso?) Do yourself a big favor, and avoid the Bosch or Autolite plugs.

Tom, some pics would be sweet! I've never done a clutch replacement on those, as any failures i've had required replacing the whole compressor, breaking into the system, etc.. etc.. basically a $500-1000 shop charge.:banghead: Your factory densos should be fine, but I bet you will have fun wrestling the spark plug 'boots' out of the towers. Once you silicone lube the boots where they contact the plug tops, they come out like butta. I'd personally just dab some never-seize onto those factory densos and reinstall. The top of the rear shocks are the biggest challenge. I got mine pretty easily with a ratcheting box end wrench and a crecsent wrench to keep the shock piston/stud from rotating.

G/luck
Joel

please do the write up. I had a recent email from a guy in the Army wanting to know if I knew how to do this or where to buy a cheap compressor since the dealer wanted 975 for just the compressor.

I wish I had replaced my shocks a long time ago....my truck feels much more poised and stable now, what a difference! I went with Gabriel Ultra's. The back ones were a pain but wouldn't have been nearly as bad with a ratcheting 14 mm box wrench.
Decided against plugs, just don't think I need them yet.

On to the compressor clutch. Very sorry, but couldn't take pictures b/c the girlfriend didn't want me getting the camera all dirty. Believe me, it's not a particularly hard process and I will explain it in detail. I used the loan a tool program from Autozone to get the tools I needed. I have a PDF file of the service manual instructions but for some reason I can’t attach files. I can send them to anyone who needs them.

Estimated time to complete: 2-2.5 hours

Step 1: Getting to the clutch

Remove the upper part of the fan shroud. Loosen the bolts on the fan pulley before removing the serpentine belt. Finally, remove fan and fan pulley. This is all you need to remove to get to the compressor, you will have plenty of room to work from above.

Step 2: Drive plate removal

I spent two afternoons half-heartedly attempting this but kept getting stuck at the drive plate, which proved to be the only tough part of the repair. Saturday morning I got serious and I ended up getting the drive plate off via the use of a harmonic balancer puller (from Autozone), three 2 inch 5 mm bolts with flat body panel washers, and a hex key that I cut in half with a Dremel.

First you must remove the bolt holding in on (10 mm). It helps to use an a/c clutch holder (from Autozone) to keep the drive plate from moving but you can use a screwdriver if need be.

Here’s the deal with the drive plate removal: There is a bolt holding on the drive plate but it’s also pressed on to a spline on the compressor shaft, so you must pull it off somehow. I decided that a harmonic balancer puller was the way to go. THE MAIN GOAL HERE IS TO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS INSIDE THE SHAFT WHILE PULLING THE DRIVE PLATE OFF! I initially tried using the original bolt to press against without threading it in all the way, but all it did was turn. I was scared to use a longer bolt bottomed out on the compressor shaft because I didn’t want to strip the threads. After trying several alternatives, I found that the only thing that was strong enough and skinny enough to fit inside the compressor shaft and press against without ruining the threads was a hex key. I cut one in half (not sure what size it was, sorry…it was slightly smaller than the threads on the 10 mm bolt) and pressed against it. Voila, the drive plate came right off. Note how many shims (flat washers) there are on the compressor shaft.

Step 3: Pulley removal

First you must remove the snap ring. Try to note how much clearance there is between the snap ring and the pulley (if there is any), simply because you want to get it as close as possible to where it was when you put the new pulley back on.
Next use a pulley puller (also from Autozone) to get the pulley off. This is pretty straightforward.

Step 4: Field coil removal.

Remove the three screws and it comes off, basically. The wire is held on with a screw that I found impossible to remove, so I just cut the wire in half and removed it. The connector was sort of tough, the bottom part is supposed to push up and you pull it out. I used a small hooked pick to get it apart.

Step 5: Field coil installation

Put the new one on just as you took the old one off, there is a tab on the back to line it up. Put in the three screws and be sure to route the wire away from moving parts!

Step 6: Pulley install

Use a 36 mm axle nut socket (from Autozone) to drive the pulley on, making sure to drive it on evenly!!!! Don’t drive it too far! This is the only part of the install where you must use your own discretion as to how far to drive it on. I drove it just past the snap ring, and my a/c works so I guess it was right! Install the snap ring.

Step 7: Drive plate install

DON’T FORGET THE SHIM(S)! I used the original one and one thinner shim because I pressed on the pulley a tad bit further than it was originally. I didn’t personally test clearance with a dial gauge as the manual recommends. It looks tough to test with the compressor on the car.

Step 8: Buckle it up

Reinstall belt, fan and pulley, and shroud. I recommend having someone else turn on the A/C while you watch the compressor just for good measure. I didn’t like how mine reacted on the first attempt, so I ended up having to take it back apart and pop off the drive plate again to install an extra shim (ended up with two flat washers instead of the one that was originally on there). Like I said, if I tested the clearance this probably wouldn’t have been a problem. My clutch functions fine.

NOTE: I REMOVED MY CLUTCH B/C MY COMPRESSOR IS BUZZING HORRIBLY AT IDLE, AND I THOUGHT THIS WOULD FIX IT RATHER THAN PAY ~$900 FOR A NEW COMPRESSOR. THE A/C WORKED FINE BEFORE AND WORKS FINE NOW, BUT UNFORTUNATELY IT TURNS OUT IT WASN’T MY CLUTCH MAKING THE NOISE. I WASN’T ABOUT TO TAKE THE NEW ONE OFF AND PUT THE OLD ONE BACK ON….THEREFORE, I HAVE A FUNCTIONING COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OFF A 2002 3.2 L IF ANYONE NEEDS ONE. I WILL SELL FOR $75 + S/H AND WILL INCLUDE SERVICE MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS, THE HEX KEY NEEDED TO PRESS OFF THE DRIVE PLATE, AND THE BOLTS/WASHERS (COST ME $5) USED WITH THE HARMONIC BALANCE PULLER. ISUZU DOES NOT MAKE OR SELL THIS PART ANYMORE, AND WILL ONLY SELL YOU THE WHOLE COMPRESSOR!!!
THIS WILL GO ON EBAY IF NO ONE FROM THE FORUM WANTS IT, SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW ASAP IF YOU’RE INTERESTED!

You can reach me at [email protected]

Good info Tom. You should have posted the symptoms before hand!:banghead: If your a/c works, it's not the a/c compressor or clutch.

Joel

You should have posted the symptoms before hand! If your a/c works, it's not the a/c compressor or clutch.

Joel

The a/c works, but its making a hellacious buzzing noise. I replaced the clutch because I thought it was slipping and hence making the noise. Plus I could buy just the clutch and put it on myself rather than spend close to $1000 to have someone put on a new compressor, which I won't be able to do myself.

Anyone want to buy a 2002 Isuzu with 57K on it?? :) This a/c issue really has me p.o.'d.

That really sux having it crap out on a 2002!:banghead: It's gotta be something internal on the compressor. Usually you will get a seal leak & loose the charge, or the compressor locks up all at once on you.

Joel

That really sux having it crap out on a 2002!
Joel

That would be a correct statement....I just hope it lasts through the summer, it's blowing cold so I'll keep my fingers crossed. There is nothing more annoying to me, however, than having to deal with a sound I know shouldn't be there.

There is nothing more annoying to me, however, than having to deal with a sound I know shouldn't be there.


I agree with that, the sound that bothers me is the oil stash in my tailgate storeage area sliding around. These vehicles shouldn't require a supply of oil on stand-by to replenish the burnoff. Everytime I take a turn they slide around. One of these days it will spill and I will go through the roof.