2001 Dodge Caravan Brake problems

I have a 2001 Dodge caravan 2.4l engine 4cyl. Went to get he brake pads (front) replaced and they tried 3 different types of pads. All them when they got it put together would not let the van go. It locked in place like the pads were too tight. Is this a common problem or is there something else going on here.

Thanks for any input

Mike:disappoin

Who is "they"?
There is a special procedure for servicing disc brakes if you have anti-lock brakes. Sounds like there might be a problem there.

They is the Mobil Gas Station we took it to for service. I was not there when all of this was going on so I am giving you a second hand account. Supposedly they are going to call back later today. I tend to believe there might be a problem with the master cylinder or the brake booster. I am close or in left field there.

Mike:smokin:

OK then...
I'll bet the mechanic at the gas station isn't certified to work on brakes.
It is illegal in most states to provide any sort of brake service without a state approved certification.
If you have ABS you either have to change the front calipers or open the bleeder slightly when compressing the cylinder to relieve the pressure. I've been told that the ABS pump can be damaged if you force the fluid backwards through the system by compressing the cylinder and reusing the caliper. That is why I was wondering about the technician's cert.
I just had a brake job done on my '00 Grand Caravan (front) . I bought the Rotors (EBC slotted) for $119 and pads (EBC green stuff SUV) for $99 (EBC also makes pads for $29 and $59). Then I had a local shop put them in ($65) reusing the Calipers. The brakes on these van are too small (IMO) for the size of the vehicle and can wear out pretty fast. This is my third Dodge minivan for a total of 210,000 miles. Every time I've had a front brake job, the front rotors were toast (except once). They were designed to wear out at the same time as the pads wear out. If you change the front pads when there is about 25% left of them, you can usually have the rotors resurfaced. By the time you wear out the second set, the rotors usually are warped and in really bad shape.

Clamp the brakeline from the caliper using spare hose and a locking wrench, apply slight pressure to the caliper piston using a pad spreader, open up the bleeder valve and discharge the fluid by torqueing the spreader. When the piston is fully retained in the caliper, close the bleeder, remove the clamp, and reassemble. Pump the brakes to recharge and test drive.

Great description.
This is the procedure the shop used on my front brakes. They billed me for an hour of work total for the front.
Unfortuneatly they forgot to tighten the lug nuts on the wheels, they only started them, and I drove from Salem to Seattle with wobbly wheels before I discoved that I was about to lose the front wheels. I heard a noise but I figured that was the new brakes seating in. Then the vibration started and I had to do an inspection. Turns out that nothing was damaged. The shop went through all of the mechanics work and double checked it. Turns out that a couple other things were loose too.

Thanks all the advice is appreciated. Now it it is time to get something done with it. After all is said and done. i will post back with what the final results were.

Thank You