Tamiya Paints for Airbrushing
wilo
04-20-2006, 09:57 AM
I have got my self a airbrush and am thinking about investing a a full set of X&XF Acyrlic 10ml paints (as i have seen the full set at a good price) will i be OK to airbrush with these acyric if i thin them with the X20A solvent.
if so what sort of ratio should i thin the paint to.
Also will i get a good finsh with acylic on body panels etc?
cheers
if so what sort of ratio should i thin the paint to.
Also will i get a good finsh with acylic on body panels etc?
cheers
MPWR
04-20-2006, 10:14 AM
Tamiya acrylics are excellent for airbrushing, but a full set seems ambitious. There's alot of colors I think I'd never get around to using.
The gloss acrylics can definately be used for painting bodies. They're not very popular around here as they are softer than laquers- but with some patience and good technique, you can get a terrific shine from them. Theyre also great for custom color mixing. My 996 was done with Tamiya acrylics, as well as my Z3.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/67954100_0068.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9228/z30012vb.jpg
Also check out Gridgirl's New Beetle in progress (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=553145). (I expect they can also be used on models of non-German cars, too.)
X20A is a great option to thin it with. Get one of the large sizes.
I never thin to a ratio- the amount of thinning required will vary with nearly every application. I just add a bit of paint to the color cup, and add a bit of thinner with an eye dropper, test spray and adjust as necessary.
The gloss acrylics can definately be used for painting bodies. They're not very popular around here as they are softer than laquers- but with some patience and good technique, you can get a terrific shine from them. Theyre also great for custom color mixing. My 996 was done with Tamiya acrylics, as well as my Z3.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/67954100_0068.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9228/z30012vb.jpg
Also check out Gridgirl's New Beetle in progress (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=553145). (I expect they can also be used on models of non-German cars, too.)
X20A is a great option to thin it with. Get one of the large sizes.
I never thin to a ratio- the amount of thinning required will vary with nearly every application. I just add a bit of paint to the color cup, and add a bit of thinner with an eye dropper, test spray and adjust as necessary.
mickbench
04-20-2006, 10:29 AM
You can archive excellent results with Tamiya Acrylics if you use them correctly. I thin mine with X20A and thinning them is more eye then measurement. You need to get the paint to a consistency of milk. Even for brush painting Acrylics I really do recommend you thin them to almost airbrush consistency as if you don’t they do gum up a lot and leave brush marks.
Acrylics work better the thinner they are, but too thin and you just end up with a wash.
I’ve painted bodies with Acrylic clear, and it is a superb clear I feel if used over decals. As even though it is solvent based, it hardly ever eats decals if you are careful. And polish out nicely as well.
Subaru 1999 WRC TS mica blue, with acrylic clear over decals –
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/45005/mode/L/img.jpg
Shelby Cobra mica blue over black with acrylic clear over decals –
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/46113/mode/L/img.jpg
In the UK, where you are www.modelsforsale.com sell tamiya Acrylics as well as Tamiya enamels and I don’t think you need to buy the whole set. Just buy them as you need them, as this is what I do, and X18 is perhaps the one you will buy the most, along with thinner..
And, MPWR – Stunning BMW Z3, and yep. The paints do work on cars other then German. LOL
Acrylics work better the thinner they are, but too thin and you just end up with a wash.
I’ve painted bodies with Acrylic clear, and it is a superb clear I feel if used over decals. As even though it is solvent based, it hardly ever eats decals if you are careful. And polish out nicely as well.
Subaru 1999 WRC TS mica blue, with acrylic clear over decals –
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/45005/mode/L/img.jpg
Shelby Cobra mica blue over black with acrylic clear over decals –
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/46113/mode/L/img.jpg
In the UK, where you are www.modelsforsale.com sell tamiya Acrylics as well as Tamiya enamels and I don’t think you need to buy the whole set. Just buy them as you need them, as this is what I do, and X18 is perhaps the one you will buy the most, along with thinner..
And, MPWR – Stunning BMW Z3, and yep. The paints do work on cars other then German. LOL
Cold_Fire
04-20-2006, 10:34 AM
A full set with all colors is innecessary, unless somebody gives them to you as a present. With some basic colors, perhaps 18 or 20 bottles, you'll have all colors you need.
The X20A is the best option to thin these paints, but it's expensive. Remember to have always some alcohol to use it to clean your airbrush, and use X20A just to thin the paints.
Yes, of course you can get a good finish on bodyworks or anything. The only thing you have to considerate is that gloss colors need much more time to dry than matt ones. Also you should know that it's very easy to get orange peel with tamiya gloss colors. You could try using gunze acrylics (better than tamiya ones, in my opinion) or using matt colors with some clear over it. TS-13 spray can from Tamiya works very well, you just have to be careful with decals (you can read about it in some threads in this forum).
Mixing ratio is something you'll learn with some practice. It's also a matter of your hability, I still have to find in my friends two people who say that they use their airbrush in the same way. Most times when the mixed paint looks to have the consistency of milk you should be able to airbrush that paint with no problems. I usually add around 40 - 50% of thinner in the mix, but it depends a lot also in the air pressure you're using.
Regards
The X20A is the best option to thin these paints, but it's expensive. Remember to have always some alcohol to use it to clean your airbrush, and use X20A just to thin the paints.
Yes, of course you can get a good finish on bodyworks or anything. The only thing you have to considerate is that gloss colors need much more time to dry than matt ones. Also you should know that it's very easy to get orange peel with tamiya gloss colors. You could try using gunze acrylics (better than tamiya ones, in my opinion) or using matt colors with some clear over it. TS-13 spray can from Tamiya works very well, you just have to be careful with decals (you can read about it in some threads in this forum).
Mixing ratio is something you'll learn with some practice. It's also a matter of your hability, I still have to find in my friends two people who say that they use their airbrush in the same way. Most times when the mixed paint looks to have the consistency of milk you should be able to airbrush that paint with no problems. I usually add around 40 - 50% of thinner in the mix, but it depends a lot also in the air pressure you're using.
Regards
wilo
04-20-2006, 10:36 AM
Cheers for all the help with the tamiya acrylics.
All the cars above look VERY good and i hope in a few years i can achieve something as good as them.
So Just to clarify should i only use X20A slovent to thin these paints.
Also what primer should i use with these Acrylics?
Also what pressure am i best airbrushing these at???
Cheers again
All the cars above look VERY good and i hope in a few years i can achieve something as good as them.
So Just to clarify should i only use X20A slovent to thin these paints.
Also what primer should i use with these Acrylics?
Also what pressure am i best airbrushing these at???
Cheers again
Cold_Fire
04-20-2006, 10:40 AM
Always the best thinner for any paint is the one that the company of the paint offers to you. The only thing to considerate is the price, a mixture of:
90% isopropilic alcohol
10% distilled water
4 or 5 drops of soap in every litre
works also very well to thin these paints and it's much cheaper than tamiya thinner.
You can use any primer, try some of them and use the one you like most. Tamiya primer in spary can works very well.
90% isopropilic alcohol
10% distilled water
4 or 5 drops of soap in every litre
works also very well to thin these paints and it's much cheaper than tamiya thinner.
You can use any primer, try some of them and use the one you like most. Tamiya primer in spary can works very well.
mickbench
04-20-2006, 10:43 AM
As you are in the UK, I can only recommend you nip off down to your local Halfords and pick up some cans of Grey and white Automotive PLASTIC Primer. They are just over a fiver a can, but you get 300ml per can, enough for two or more kits if you are frugal. These primers work fantastic with Tamiya Acylics, and sadly one of the few primers for model builders in the UK. There are some other primers, name escapes me at the moment, but as long as you get the Plastic bumper automotive lacquer primer you will be fine.
X20A solvent thinner is PERFECTLY fine. You can also use window cleaner to clean up your airbrush and colour cups, and I also recommend spraying water through your airbrush AFTER cleaning up with window cleaner, as window cleaner can harm acrylics.
Nip to tesco, get some Mr Muscle window cleaner. It’s great for cleanup. Cheap as well. Also, Mr Muscle over cleaner strips off acrylics, so if you make a mess, dunk in oven cleaner and try again once you rinse all the oven cleaner off.
Also, wear a face mask. Not a dust mask, a vapour mask. Halfords again sells one for £20. Even though Tamiya acrylics are not harmful, the primer aint so good for your lungs mate..
X20A solvent thinner is PERFECTLY fine. You can also use window cleaner to clean up your airbrush and colour cups, and I also recommend spraying water through your airbrush AFTER cleaning up with window cleaner, as window cleaner can harm acrylics.
Nip to tesco, get some Mr Muscle window cleaner. It’s great for cleanup. Cheap as well. Also, Mr Muscle over cleaner strips off acrylics, so if you make a mess, dunk in oven cleaner and try again once you rinse all the oven cleaner off.
Also, wear a face mask. Not a dust mask, a vapour mask. Halfords again sells one for £20. Even though Tamiya acrylics are not harmful, the primer aint so good for your lungs mate..
mickbench
04-20-2006, 10:44 AM
You can use any primer, try some of them and use the one you like most. Tamiya primer in spary can works very well.
He is in the UK, so sadly Tamiya primer isn't an option unless he gets some imported from www.hlj.com. shame, as you are right, Tamiya primer is good stuff.
He is in the UK, so sadly Tamiya primer isn't an option unless he gets some imported from www.hlj.com. shame, as you are right, Tamiya primer is good stuff.
wilo
04-20-2006, 11:20 AM
He is in the UK, so sadly Tamiya primer isn't an option unless he gets some imported from www.hlj.com (http://www.hlj.com). shame, as you are right, Tamiya primer is good stuff.
Cheers mickbench you have been a BIG help, i will try all the items you mentioned. so i guess by what you are saying that i cant get a primer that i can airbrush on? Is this right?
Cheers mickbench you have been a BIG help, i will try all the items you mentioned. so i guess by what you are saying that i cant get a primer that i can airbrush on? Is this right?
KarmaMechanic
04-20-2006, 12:53 PM
Don't forget, you can also use Future Klear as a clearcoat, this is an acrylic based product, and you don't need to polish it, 'cos it settles like water and gives a high shine! You don't get no 'orange peel' at all with this stuff! Also it's bulletproof!
MPWR
04-20-2006, 04:46 PM
Cheers mickbench you have been a BIG help, i will try all the items you mentioned. so i guess by what you are saying that i cant get a primer that i can airbrush on? Is this right?
It is possible to get primer that can be airbrushed. I hate spraycans, and don't ever use them- airbrush everything.
Tamiya primer is a very popular product. It seals against laquer, goes on evenly, gives a good painting surface, has some filling properties, and is laquer so it is hard and easily sandable. However, not all of these properties are absolutely neciessary, particullarly if your using acrylics. Most importainly, you don't need to protect the plastic from acrylic.
I've been pleasantly surprised by Testors MM Acryl primer. Yes, in all likelyhood, they are just flat grey and flat white Acryl paint- but they actually work in the role just fine. What you get is a nice, even surface for painting. Flat acrylic dries quickly. It's even sandable- but it's not as hard as a laquer primer. I sand it with 2000 grit paper from the auto store, and it works very well. No, it doesn't fill quite like Tamiya, and don't even think of spraying laquers over it. But for the purposes of using it under acrylics, it works very well. Use it with the Acryl brand thinner to get it as smooth as possible.
On this line of thought, it's possible that Tamiya XF grey or white would work similarly.
As far as clearcoat, X22 is an excellent and highly underrated product. It is VASTLY superior to Future as a clearcoat on model cars. If you get it thick, Future has a nasty tendency to fog, craze or crack. X22 doesn't. Yeah, Future is dirt cheap- but I got over cheaping out on this hobby long ago. A really good finish on a model is worth another $2 USD to me.
It is possible to get primer that can be airbrushed. I hate spraycans, and don't ever use them- airbrush everything.
Tamiya primer is a very popular product. It seals against laquer, goes on evenly, gives a good painting surface, has some filling properties, and is laquer so it is hard and easily sandable. However, not all of these properties are absolutely neciessary, particullarly if your using acrylics. Most importainly, you don't need to protect the plastic from acrylic.
I've been pleasantly surprised by Testors MM Acryl primer. Yes, in all likelyhood, they are just flat grey and flat white Acryl paint- but they actually work in the role just fine. What you get is a nice, even surface for painting. Flat acrylic dries quickly. It's even sandable- but it's not as hard as a laquer primer. I sand it with 2000 grit paper from the auto store, and it works very well. No, it doesn't fill quite like Tamiya, and don't even think of spraying laquers over it. But for the purposes of using it under acrylics, it works very well. Use it with the Acryl brand thinner to get it as smooth as possible.
On this line of thought, it's possible that Tamiya XF grey or white would work similarly.
As far as clearcoat, X22 is an excellent and highly underrated product. It is VASTLY superior to Future as a clearcoat on model cars. If you get it thick, Future has a nasty tendency to fog, craze or crack. X22 doesn't. Yeah, Future is dirt cheap- but I got over cheaping out on this hobby long ago. A really good finish on a model is worth another $2 USD to me.
wilo
04-20-2006, 05:05 PM
Don't forget, you can also use Future Klear as a clearcoat, this is an acrylic based product, and you don't need to polish it, 'cos it settles like water and gives a high shine! You don't get no 'orange peel' at all with this stuff! Also it's bulletproof!
This stuff seems to be a modelers dream product i have read about this stuff EVERYWHERE it come under a different name in the UK i have told the wife i am doing the shopping this week to pick some of this up and some window cleaner (to clean my airbrush) and oven cleaner (to stip crome parts) i am sure she thinks i am going to polish the wooden floors clean all the windows and clean the oven :smooch: :smooch: She is going to have a shock
This stuff seems to be a modelers dream product i have read about this stuff EVERYWHERE it come under a different name in the UK i have told the wife i am doing the shopping this week to pick some of this up and some window cleaner (to clean my airbrush) and oven cleaner (to stip crome parts) i am sure she thinks i am going to polish the wooden floors clean all the windows and clean the oven :smooch: :smooch: She is going to have a shock
wilo
04-20-2006, 05:35 PM
It is possible to get primer that can be airbrushed. I hate spraycans, and don't ever use them- airbrush everything.
Tamiya primer is a very popular product. It seals against laquer, goes on evenly, gives a good painting surface, has some filling properties, and is laquer so it is hard and easily sandable. However, not all of these properties are absolutely neciessary, particullarly if your using acrylics. Most importainly, you don't need to protect the plastic from acrylic.
I've been pleasantly surprised by Testors MM Acryl primer. Yes, in all likelyhood, they are just flat grey and flat white Acryl paint- but they actually work in the role just fine. What you get is a nice, even surface for painting. Flat acrylic dries quickly. It's even sandable- but it's not as hard as a laquer primer. I sand it with 2000 grit paper from the auto store, and it works very well. No, it doesn't fill quite like Tamiya, and don't even think of spraying laquers over it. But for the purposes of using it under acrylics, it works very well. Use it with the Acryl brand thinner to get it as smooth as possible.
On this line of thought, it's possible that Tamiya XF grey or white would work similarly.
As far as clearcoat, X22 is an excellent and highly underrated product. It is VASTLY superior to Future as a clearcoat on model cars. If you get it thick, Future has a nasty tendency to fog, craze or crack. X22 doesn't. Yeah, Future is dirt cheap- but I got over cheaping out on this hobby long ago. A really good finish on a model is worth another $2 USD to me.
Got to say i am with you on this one i have just spend a few hundred ponds on a airbrush and comressor so i would like to be able to airbrush the primer as well as every thing else if poss, i will also try the X22 as i have a bottle anyway i am guessing i just thin with the tamiya acylic thiner as with all the other tamiya acylics?
sorry about all these newby questions :grinyes: :grinyes:
Tamiya primer is a very popular product. It seals against laquer, goes on evenly, gives a good painting surface, has some filling properties, and is laquer so it is hard and easily sandable. However, not all of these properties are absolutely neciessary, particullarly if your using acrylics. Most importainly, you don't need to protect the plastic from acrylic.
I've been pleasantly surprised by Testors MM Acryl primer. Yes, in all likelyhood, they are just flat grey and flat white Acryl paint- but they actually work in the role just fine. What you get is a nice, even surface for painting. Flat acrylic dries quickly. It's even sandable- but it's not as hard as a laquer primer. I sand it with 2000 grit paper from the auto store, and it works very well. No, it doesn't fill quite like Tamiya, and don't even think of spraying laquers over it. But for the purposes of using it under acrylics, it works very well. Use it with the Acryl brand thinner to get it as smooth as possible.
On this line of thought, it's possible that Tamiya XF grey or white would work similarly.
As far as clearcoat, X22 is an excellent and highly underrated product. It is VASTLY superior to Future as a clearcoat on model cars. If you get it thick, Future has a nasty tendency to fog, craze or crack. X22 doesn't. Yeah, Future is dirt cheap- but I got over cheaping out on this hobby long ago. A really good finish on a model is worth another $2 USD to me.
Got to say i am with you on this one i have just spend a few hundred ponds on a airbrush and comressor so i would like to be able to airbrush the primer as well as every thing else if poss, i will also try the X22 as i have a bottle anyway i am guessing i just thin with the tamiya acylic thiner as with all the other tamiya acylics?
sorry about all these newby questions :grinyes: :grinyes:
mickbench
04-20-2006, 05:38 PM
Johnsons klear (UK Name, Tesco sell it) is very runny, and not as good as X22 IMO. X22 as MPWR has rightfully said is a VERY good clear. It doesn't gloss up until a few coats, but due to going on thin, you can apply up to 7 coats and it just looks awesome. After about 3 weeks you can polish it up really nice.
This is another example of mine using X22, I really do trust the stuff over anything else when it comes to clearing over decals.
Honda RA272 Racing white cleared with X22 over decals
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/35529/mode/L/img.jpg
Completed model, cleared with X22
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/38669/mode/L/img.jpg
As for primer, unlike MPWR I don't mind using a spray can, Halfords white and grey primer are spray cans. But you do get some waste, as you tend to overspray as the nozzle shoots out a wider line of paint. I recommend for the time being, and for ease, Halfords PLASTIC primer, practice on some card to get it right, and prime out of the can.
Then use TS paints, or acrylics from your airbrush, and if you need to clear over decals, X22 all the away. For the sake of waht 99p in the UK, X22 is a fantastic product.
Just my 2pence worth.. HTH
This is another example of mine using X22, I really do trust the stuff over anything else when it comes to clearing over decals.
Honda RA272 Racing white cleared with X22 over decals
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/35529/mode/L/img.jpg
Completed model, cleared with X22
http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/38669/mode/L/img.jpg
As for primer, unlike MPWR I don't mind using a spray can, Halfords white and grey primer are spray cans. But you do get some waste, as you tend to overspray as the nozzle shoots out a wider line of paint. I recommend for the time being, and for ease, Halfords PLASTIC primer, practice on some card to get it right, and prime out of the can.
Then use TS paints, or acrylics from your airbrush, and if you need to clear over decals, X22 all the away. For the sake of waht 99p in the UK, X22 is a fantastic product.
Just my 2pence worth.. HTH
mickbench
04-20-2006, 05:43 PM
This stuff seems to be a modelers dream product i have read about this stuff EVERYWHERE it come under a different name in the UK i have told the wife i am doing the shopping this week to pick some of this up and some window cleaner (to clean my airbrush) and oven cleaner (to stip crome parts) i am sure she thinks i am going to polish the wooden floors clean all the windows and clean the oven :smooch: :smooch: She is going to have a shock
Mah, I'm always raiding the kitchen for cleaning products, oven cleaner, rubber gloves, sponges, spoons to mix with, small bowls, old spice cap lids for paint trays and washing up liquid. And I'm pleased to read you got a compressor, I need to get one VERY badly. Which one did you get, if you don't mind me asking? and where did you get it and for how much? I'm still using canned air, one of the reasons I'm still using spray cans a lot.
Mah, I'm always raiding the kitchen for cleaning products, oven cleaner, rubber gloves, sponges, spoons to mix with, small bowls, old spice cap lids for paint trays and washing up liquid. And I'm pleased to read you got a compressor, I need to get one VERY badly. Which one did you get, if you don't mind me asking? and where did you get it and for how much? I'm still using canned air, one of the reasons I'm still using spray cans a lot.
wilo
04-21-2006, 10:43 AM
Tamiya acrylics are excellent for airbrushing, but a full set seems ambitious. There's alot of colors I think I'd never get around to using.
The gloss acrylics can definately be used for painting bodies. They're not very popular around here as they are softer than laquers- but with some patience and good technique, you can get a terrific shine from them. Theyre also great for custom color mixing. My 996 was done with Tamiya acrylics, as well as my Z3.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/67954100_0068.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9228/z30012vb.jpg
Also check out Gridgirl's New Beetle in progress (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=553145). (I expect they can also be used on models of non-German cars, too.)
X20A is a great option to thin it with. Get one of the large sizes.
I never thin to a ratio- the amount of thinning required will vary with nearly every application. I just add a bit of paint to the color cup, and add a bit of thinner with an eye dropper, test spray and adjust as necessary.
Your Work is AMAZING i can not belive the realism in your engines on the 3 ferrari bulids do you have any more links to any more of your builds you are a inspiration :eek: :eek: :eek:
The gloss acrylics can definately be used for painting bodies. They're not very popular around here as they are softer than laquers- but with some patience and good technique, you can get a terrific shine from them. Theyre also great for custom color mixing. My 996 was done with Tamiya acrylics, as well as my Z3.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/67954100_0068.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9228/z30012vb.jpg
Also check out Gridgirl's New Beetle in progress (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=553145). (I expect they can also be used on models of non-German cars, too.)
X20A is a great option to thin it with. Get one of the large sizes.
I never thin to a ratio- the amount of thinning required will vary with nearly every application. I just add a bit of paint to the color cup, and add a bit of thinner with an eye dropper, test spray and adjust as necessary.
Your Work is AMAZING i can not belive the realism in your engines on the 3 ferrari bulids do you have any more links to any more of your builds you are a inspiration :eek: :eek: :eek:
MPWR
04-21-2006, 03:43 PM
And, MPWR – Stunning BMW Z3, and yep. The paints do work on cars other then German. LOL
Your Work is AMAZING i can not belive the realism in your engines on the 3 ferrari bulids do you have any more links to any more of your builds you are a inspiration :eek: :eek: :eek:
Thanks guys!
Wilo, about the only other thread I have going is the topless 360 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=537077)- and it's not very far along yet (but it's coming :rolleyes:). I expect it will get updated soon. And I have yet another project forthcoming (a BMW!), which I'm almost ready to show off....
Your Work is AMAZING i can not belive the realism in your engines on the 3 ferrari bulids do you have any more links to any more of your builds you are a inspiration :eek: :eek: :eek:
Thanks guys!
Wilo, about the only other thread I have going is the topless 360 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=537077)- and it's not very far along yet (but it's coming :rolleyes:). I expect it will get updated soon. And I have yet another project forthcoming (a BMW!), which I'm almost ready to show off....
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