Oil lines? $400??
zachzchw
04-19-2006, 12:14 AM
I had the truck in to Midas today, to get some things checked out.
They told me my oil leak came from some sort of oil lines........
They also said that a replacement set can only be obtained through a dealer, and they are around $400 for the set.
Also was told it is a very common problem.....
Ive never heard of it before, anyone care to shed some light on the subject?
They told me my oil leak came from some sort of oil lines........
They also said that a replacement set can only be obtained through a dealer, and they are around $400 for the set.
Also was told it is a very common problem.....
Ive never heard of it before, anyone care to shed some light on the subject?
SComp23
04-19-2006, 12:28 AM
Yeah the set is like 90 bucks or something. The ones that came stock only had 2 crimps and are prone to leaks, the new ones are triple crimped. Replace them yourself, that is a rip-off
OverBoardProject
04-19-2006, 01:26 AM
There's a big difference between $90 and $400
zachzchw
04-19-2006, 02:07 AM
Yeah the set is like 90 bucks or something. The ones that came stock only had 2 crimps and are prone to leaks, the new ones are triple crimped. Replace them yourself, that is a rip-off
Where can I get them? Is it only from a dealer?
Also, what is the proper name, like if I was to search the internet for them?
thanks.
Where can I get them? Is it only from a dealer?
Also, what is the proper name, like if I was to search the internet for them?
thanks.
muddog321
04-19-2006, 05:23 AM
oil cooler lines. 4wd has 2 sets - 1 from the block (where the filter adapter is) under the engine (which has to be raised one inch to put them in on drivers side) to under the radiator to the oil filter. Then 2nd set goes from the oil filter to the radiator (where the oil is cooled).
For a 2wd there is only 1 line and its easy and no need to jack up the engine.
Dorman is the aftermarket brand and carried by the stores that supply the local auto repair (Advance or AutoZone do not carry unless they recently added them).
For a 2wd there is only 1 line and its easy and no need to jack up the engine.
Dorman is the aftermarket brand and carried by the stores that supply the local auto repair (Advance or AutoZone do not carry unless they recently added them).
redwheeler
04-19-2006, 10:39 AM
try www.rockauto.com thats where i got mine i think they were 20 for one set and 30 for the other set
zachzchw
04-19-2006, 02:09 PM
How much should it be to get them installed?
I dont have the equipment to raise the engine.
I dont have the equipment to raise the engine.
JoshBarber
04-19-2006, 03:07 PM
How much should it be to get them installed?
I dont have the equipment to raise the engine.
bro, you have the "equipment" to raise the engine. even if you don't have a simple floor jack...which I'd assume everyone should, you have your tire jack in the Blazer.
But Id go buy a halfway decent floor jack. You'll use it plenty unless you can afford $400 bills for replacing $40 lines.
i did a post recently on the job. Click here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=546828&highlight=oil+cooler
If you do have money to spend on this sort of stuff, and arent mechanically inclined.......
I'd still call the shop and tell them to buy the lines for $40 through AutoZone...or offer to bring them the lines to do it. The job itself might take you an hour if its the first time you've done it, and thats working with the truck on ramps. The lines from the filter to the cooler are a breeze. The line from the filter to the engine will take the majority of the time. Just because you need extensions to get to the bolt, and need to slightly raise the engine. Shouldnt take an experienced shop, with access to a lift, more than 30minutes unless something is stuck or breaks. Dealer around here charges $90/hr for labor. Non-dealer shops are significantly less usually. So you do the math on cost. $40 (parts) + $?(1hr labor) = ???
Or, buy a jack that you'll use regularly for maintenance, and $40 for parts....and maybe an hour of your time to do the job. Sup to you.
I dont have the equipment to raise the engine.
bro, you have the "equipment" to raise the engine. even if you don't have a simple floor jack...which I'd assume everyone should, you have your tire jack in the Blazer.
But Id go buy a halfway decent floor jack. You'll use it plenty unless you can afford $400 bills for replacing $40 lines.
i did a post recently on the job. Click here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=546828&highlight=oil+cooler
If you do have money to spend on this sort of stuff, and arent mechanically inclined.......
I'd still call the shop and tell them to buy the lines for $40 through AutoZone...or offer to bring them the lines to do it. The job itself might take you an hour if its the first time you've done it, and thats working with the truck on ramps. The lines from the filter to the cooler are a breeze. The line from the filter to the engine will take the majority of the time. Just because you need extensions to get to the bolt, and need to slightly raise the engine. Shouldnt take an experienced shop, with access to a lift, more than 30minutes unless something is stuck or breaks. Dealer around here charges $90/hr for labor. Non-dealer shops are significantly less usually. So you do the math on cost. $40 (parts) + $?(1hr labor) = ???
Or, buy a jack that you'll use regularly for maintenance, and $40 for parts....and maybe an hour of your time to do the job. Sup to you.
zachzchw
04-19-2006, 03:14 PM
bro, you have the "equipment" to raise the engine. even if you don't have a simple floor jack...which I'd assume everyone should, you have your tire jack in the Blazer.
But Id go buy a halfway decent floor jack. You'll use it plenty unless you can afford $400 bills for replacing $40 lines.
i did a post recently on the job. Click here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=546828&highlight=oil+cooler
If you do have money to spend on this sort of stuff, and arent mechanically inclined.......
I'd still call the shop and tell them to buy the lines for $40 through AutoZone...or offer to bring them the lines to do it. The job itself might take you an hour if its the first time you've done it, and thats working with the truck on ramps. Shouldnt take an experienced shop, with access to a lift, more than 30minutes unless something is stuck or breaks. Dealer around here charges $90/hr for labor. Non-dealer shops are significantly less usually. So you do the math on cost. $40 (parts) + $?(1hr labor) = ???
Or, buy a jack that you'll use regularly for maintenance, and $40 for parts....and maybe an hour of your time to do the job. Sup to you.
Didnt know that all I would need is a jack.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.
But Id go buy a halfway decent floor jack. You'll use it plenty unless you can afford $400 bills for replacing $40 lines.
i did a post recently on the job. Click here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=546828&highlight=oil+cooler
If you do have money to spend on this sort of stuff, and arent mechanically inclined.......
I'd still call the shop and tell them to buy the lines for $40 through AutoZone...or offer to bring them the lines to do it. The job itself might take you an hour if its the first time you've done it, and thats working with the truck on ramps. Shouldnt take an experienced shop, with access to a lift, more than 30minutes unless something is stuck or breaks. Dealer around here charges $90/hr for labor. Non-dealer shops are significantly less usually. So you do the math on cost. $40 (parts) + $?(1hr labor) = ???
Or, buy a jack that you'll use regularly for maintenance, and $40 for parts....and maybe an hour of your time to do the job. Sup to you.
Didnt know that all I would need is a jack.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.
JoshBarber
04-19-2006, 03:31 PM
Didnt know that all I would need is a jack.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.
no problem.
its a real common issue. most of the time they just slowly weap oil. not major leaking. but it still makes a mess.
The one from the filter to the cooler is just the one bolt at the filter, and the lines are a quick disconnect on the oil cooler. Try to remember how they're routed through other lines etc. for when you put the new ones in.
Like I said, most difficult part of the job was the rear connection under the engine (assuming yours is 4whl drive).
I think you'll just need a small open end (forget the size), 12'' extension, swivel, socket (I forget the bolt size, but its the same as the one securing them to the filter block), and some long sleeves. You have to do some manuevering to get your wratchet in under the engine, and I always end up with mangled arms cuz I cant make myself quit till its done! :)
Helpful hints:
-work from the front of the engine looking back. its near impossible to remove that bolt from UNDERNEATH looking up at it. Trust me....I tried. :)
-place socket at the end of the entension and swivel on the bolt by hand, BEFORE popping the wratchet on. It's much easier to guide the swiveled socket onto the bolt-head by hand then it is holding the wratchet.
-the small open end is for the small bolt that holds the line bracket to the engine. This sits about halfway from the filter mount, to the engine mount (mid-line) and just keeps the lines from flopping around while driving. You can't remove the lines until this braket is removed.
-Only lift the engine a small amount (just enough to manuever the line out) overlifting could tear it from the engine mounts.
-Make sure the sealing surfaces are all clean and free of oil/dirt/etc. before installing new lines.
-Put the bolt inside the mounting block and guide the lines back to the engine port again with just the extension and swivel.
-Be as delicate as possible when putting the new lines in, because the metal/rubber gasket (shaped like an "8") can fall off in the process...and it won't seal without it. You DONT want to have to do the job twice because this gasket fell off without you noticing it.
You'll have to check for a torque on these bolts...I don't recall what it is.
After your done...the best part is degreasing under your engine, and spraying it with a power washer. Its so nice not having everything underneath wet and oil coated.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.
no problem.
its a real common issue. most of the time they just slowly weap oil. not major leaking. but it still makes a mess.
The one from the filter to the cooler is just the one bolt at the filter, and the lines are a quick disconnect on the oil cooler. Try to remember how they're routed through other lines etc. for when you put the new ones in.
Like I said, most difficult part of the job was the rear connection under the engine (assuming yours is 4whl drive).
I think you'll just need a small open end (forget the size), 12'' extension, swivel, socket (I forget the bolt size, but its the same as the one securing them to the filter block), and some long sleeves. You have to do some manuevering to get your wratchet in under the engine, and I always end up with mangled arms cuz I cant make myself quit till its done! :)
Helpful hints:
-work from the front of the engine looking back. its near impossible to remove that bolt from UNDERNEATH looking up at it. Trust me....I tried. :)
-place socket at the end of the entension and swivel on the bolt by hand, BEFORE popping the wratchet on. It's much easier to guide the swiveled socket onto the bolt-head by hand then it is holding the wratchet.
-the small open end is for the small bolt that holds the line bracket to the engine. This sits about halfway from the filter mount, to the engine mount (mid-line) and just keeps the lines from flopping around while driving. You can't remove the lines until this braket is removed.
-Only lift the engine a small amount (just enough to manuever the line out) overlifting could tear it from the engine mounts.
-Make sure the sealing surfaces are all clean and free of oil/dirt/etc. before installing new lines.
-Put the bolt inside the mounting block and guide the lines back to the engine port again with just the extension and swivel.
-Be as delicate as possible when putting the new lines in, because the metal/rubber gasket (shaped like an "8") can fall off in the process...and it won't seal without it. You DONT want to have to do the job twice because this gasket fell off without you noticing it.
You'll have to check for a torque on these bolts...I don't recall what it is.
After your done...the best part is degreasing under your engine, and spraying it with a power washer. Its so nice not having everything underneath wet and oil coated.
XPC2004
04-19-2006, 04:54 PM
I had the truck in to Midas today,...
yeah, there's the first problem.
The oil lines cost about $90cdn - $120(ish) depending on where you are.
I replaced mine, it was $218 in total from a local garage. Midas is a rip off.
$85 an hour. Charge you book time, there's you're $400
Mine's a 95 4x4 4dr.
~xpc...
yeah, there's the first problem.
The oil lines cost about $90cdn - $120(ish) depending on where you are.
I replaced mine, it was $218 in total from a local garage. Midas is a rip off.
$85 an hour. Charge you book time, there's you're $400
Mine's a 95 4x4 4dr.
~xpc...
solarflareq
04-22-2006, 06:38 PM
I just had new lines made at the local oilfield supply shop and they are a great deal better quality lines for 40$ cad"only did the 2 from engine pan to filter". the fittings are really easy to work with and if you take it to a guy that knows what hes doing you can get this done np and not pay the retail high end prices.. and also your getting pressed on fittings which will probly last a lifetime just running oil.
dmbrisket 51
04-22-2006, 08:03 PM
Didnt know that all I would need is a jack.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.
nooooooooooooooooooooooooo! stay away from that AZ SH*T pay the extra coin now and do it right, get the lines from the dealer, more money, but youll do the job a less number of times
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.
nooooooooooooooooooooooooo! stay away from that AZ SH*T pay the extra coin now and do it right, get the lines from the dealer, more money, but youll do the job a less number of times
old_master
04-22-2006, 09:05 PM
With certain parts you are better off going to the dealer and getting the OE part. The oil lines however, are not one of those parts. The Dorman replacement is a far superior part. Spend less money for a better quality part, do the job one time. Get the lines from the dealer and they'll leak just like the ones you have now and you WILL be doing it again...guaranteed. As mentioned earlier in this post, "it's a common problem", only with the OE part.
dmbrisket 51
04-23-2006, 01:43 AM
two sides to each story, you say after market is supperior quality i say dealer is, the engeneers are constently upgrading things, go with the engeneers that built the car, not someone with no affiliation, thats just my theory
Mr. Smith
04-23-2006, 07:39 AM
two sides to each story, you say after market is supperior quality i say dealer is, the engeneers are constently upgrading things, go with the engeneers that built the car, not someone with no affiliation, thats just my theory
Dorman IMO is just as good as OE if not better. Cost wise they can't be beat. GM wanted 38 each for my 97 1500 and I paid 15 for my replacements from Dorman. ( I got a great deal)
So there are 2 votes for Dorman
Dorman IMO is just as good as OE if not better. Cost wise they can't be beat. GM wanted 38 each for my 97 1500 and I paid 15 for my replacements from Dorman. ( I got a great deal)
So there are 2 votes for Dorman
solarflareq
04-23-2006, 11:33 AM
they are just hydralic hoses. if you see the dif between what GM has and what you can get made its quite a big dif in quality. one has fully crimped on ends one has 2-3 spot crimped on ends gm surely didnt put much time into makeing these hoses. my uncle owns the oilfield shop i had mine made at and gm has theirs"shop truck's" done at his shop all the time. so that has to say something no?
Moser97
04-23-2006, 02:18 PM
In another life I was a Supervisor in a room full of Mechanical, Electrical, and Electronic engineers. I can almost guarantee you that no one at GM is looking to upgrade this 10 plus year old obsolete product. If GM engineers are still working on making these lines better I think I know why GM is at bankruptcies door. An aftermarket guy on the other hand, who has to have a gimmick to sell his product, has nothing to do except try to make a better line. IMHO of course. Zach I have not forgotten you. I will email the pix of these new GM OEM lines today. If you are interested we will come up with a fair price via email and I will get them out to you. I tried earlier in the week but took a camera that would not work. They are in my boat shed where I am (happily) going right now. Maybe I will post a picture of a 40 pound Striped Bass for you fellows later.
zachzchw
05-05-2006, 10:53 PM
can someone provide me with a link to exactly what it is I need, please?
Autozone and Advance dont seem to know what Im asking for.
Thanks guys.
Autozone and Advance dont seem to know what Im asking for.
Thanks guys.
old_master
05-05-2006, 11:33 PM
The Dorman numbers are: 625-100 $28.88 and 625-001 $39.99
You can enter your year, make & model in Advance auto web site and double check the numbers. Here is their web site:
http://www.partsamerica.com/Default.aspx
You can enter your year, make & model in Advance auto web site and double check the numbers. Here is their web site:
http://www.partsamerica.com/Default.aspx
sebryce
05-06-2006, 12:05 AM
I just replaced mine and if I can do it anyone can. Autozone had them $40 ea. and they were easy to install (thanks to this site). No more oil leaks and mess up front.
redwheeler
05-06-2006, 01:21 AM
im telling you the dorman lines from rockauto.com are as good or better than oem go w/the dormans trust me you will not regret it
SpectreSE
05-07-2006, 07:46 PM
I just ordered the two Dorman lines online, a local auto repair place charged me $75 for labor to replace them...did the oil/filter change while they were there too.....
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