Coil-over help!!

Allright so here's the deal. I bought some used skunkworks (skunk2 before the legal crap started) coilovers and i don't know which go in the front and which go in back. They look almost identical except for the numbers stamped on it. Two of them say "0800.2.50.008" and two say "0800.2.50.010". Anyone know which go where? or can someone atleast tell me what these numbers mean?

measure the height? smaller ones go in the front, plus i'm not sure about yours but usually the springs for the front are a little thicker

they're the same height, couldn't afford true coil-overs :( i'll check into that thicker thing, can't remember if they vary but i never looked into that type of thing.

8 is the fronts

When i took a closer look i found that the 10's were a little thicker than the 8's so would that mean the thinner are up front kicker1? or do i put the thicker ones up front and the thinner ones in back? it would make sense that the thicker would be a little more stiff for up front

i've always known the front to be thicker due to the load of the car being put on the front being as it's front wheel, but if they're the same height i'm sure they're work either way, i'd put the thick ones on the front

When i took a closer look i found that the 10's were a little thicker than the 8's so would that mean the thinner are up front kicker1? or do i put the thicker ones up front and the thinner ones in back? it would make sense that the thicker would be a little more stiff for up frontI don't know. Originally you said that both are the same so I was just helping you make up your mind about which to put up front. And if one is a little thicker, put those up front.

With the numbers you gave, I'd deem is safe to say the last number reefers to the spring rates, thus the 010 would be 10kg and 008 would be 8kg. My Tein coilovers have similar type numbers on the springs.

lol my Sprint springs just came in and they look similar also, but one is thicker, so i'm puttin the thicker in front assuming...

now i think the part witht he wider gap in the spring goes on the bottom? can anyone confirm that?

now i think the part witht he wider gap in the spring goes on the bottom? can anyone confirm that?
that is correct, your stock springs should be the same way too, just look at those

I know this is a newb thing to ask, but i just got off work and too tired to search it but... whats the difference between say 8kg and 10kg? and why would they go in front/back? i havn't really researched too in depth about spring rates and all that. OR!!! if someone has a great thread or site that explains it all i would love to see it. thanks

i don't know anything about that number shit, but i'm assuming as it's in kg that it's either the weight of the springs or the load bearing weight in some form

I know this is a newb thing to ask, but i just got off work and too tired to search it but... whats the difference between say 8kg and 10kg? and why would they go in front/back? i havn't really researched too in depth about spring rates and all that. OR!!! if someone has a great thread or site that explains it all i would love to see it. thanks
read this thread...

It's the weight that's required to make the spring compress. 10kgf/mm is equal to 559lbs./ft of force required to make the spring compress. An 8kg is equal to 448lbs. of force. Google "spring rates" and you'll get a better understanding. On any 5th or 6th gen Civic ('92-'00) you always want the stiffer spring up front as so the car won't sag lopsided from the engine weight at the front. Also the suspension is built around a stiffer front from the factory. Just as an FYI, Skunk2 (and Skunkworks) sleeved coilovers like you have came for Civic mad with a 500lbs. front and 400lbs. rear spring rates, so roughly 10kg and 8kg respectively minus about 50lbs which should really make them 9 and 7kg.

this shit is so dumb, i went to put on my new springs and struts, the Koni struts have a finer thread so the old bolt didn't fit on..

that's like the biggest scam to screm someone over ever lol

this shit is so dumb, i went to put on my new springs and struts, the Koni struts have a finer thread so the old bolt didn't fit on..

that's like the biggest scam to screm someone over ever lol

If it's a different size, then Koni should have included the proper thread bolt/nut to use.

Your last sentance didn't any sense... :confused:

*screw :)

and to update that statement, i'm a moron and didn't see the bag of two bolts strategically placed in the box haha

*screw :)

and to update that statement, i'm a moron and didn't see the bag of two bolts strategically placed in the box haha

ALWAYS empty the box or dig around in it till you know nothing is left inside. ;)

Hey at least it came with bolts and you didn't have to go find any. Thats what my friend and I had to do when we rebuilt a d15b2 that was sitting in his garage. Luckly every bolt we needed was mixed in with other bolts in a big bucket.... but it runs :)

But anyways one more question. After getting the coil-overs set right and go in for an alignment, does it matter where i go? Or i should be asking if shops would be picky about having a camber kit on and would they adjust the camber also?

Hey at least it came with bolts and you didn't have to go find any. Thats what my friend and I had to do when we rebuilt a d15b2 that was sitting in his garage. Luckly every bolt we needed was mixed in with other bolts in a big bucket.... but it runs :)

But anyways one more question. After getting the coil-overs set right and go in for an alignment, does it matter where i go? Or i should be asking if shops would be picky about having a camber kit on and would they adjust the camber also?

They will adjust it is much as they can. Different shops have different techniques for fixing it as best they can. Some will bend the arms to do so which I would NEVER allow to be done to my car no matter how bad the camber is. bending arms is the WORST thing you can do to fix it. Just go around to shops and price them out and also ask if they would mind aligning your car. The shop I last went to didn't charge me when I went because he said my alignment was within spec. he attached the laser system to thw wheels and double checked using a measuring tape and level guide. He said whatever I had done was right on point. :cool: Funny thing was I had brought it in because I changed some suspension parts and was certain I had messed up at least the toe angle. He was good and thurough though and took his time with it while I watched, I'd definitely go back again!