Sub wiring

Ok I have a Pioneer 520T amp. (Best thing from local walmart). And a Dub Audio 200 sub. (The only thing offered at our walmart that won't blow...tried the Pionner sub but the RMS was to low and I blew it.) Anyways, when wiring it...I want to get the most power out of it with some nice bass. Should I keep it bridged and how should I run the wires to the sub. Since it has dual voice coils (4 ohms each) and all? Run neg on 1 side to pos on other and use the open pos and neg to the amp or what? I was also wondering if I should run the amp in 2 channel mode. Like the left channel for one coil and the right for other. Or would that work?

Either way would work fine but when you bridge an amp they tend to overheat faster than unbridged. If you want the most power out of your amp make sure it is 2 ohm stable and then run it bridged with the pos and neg wires running to the connections for one coil and then run wires from that coil's connection to the other connection connecting pos to pos and neg to neg which will reduce the subs resistance to 2 ohms. And in the future save up some money and you can buy alot better stuff online for pretty cheap and don't have to deal with the junk that walmart sells.

Ok I've checked and my amp is only stable at 4 ohms. So should I keep it the way I have it. Pos lead going to neg lead and the open spots going to amp or what?

you'll have to leave it that way if it's only stable to 4 ohms. I bought two Lightning Audio 12s from walmart (i know they suck) which are supposed to be rated 150rms/750max and am running them on a Hifonics BX1505D at about 300 rms. so far lasted 4 weeks, i'm wondering how much longer :)

Ok. I did have the pioneer sub. (My girlfriend said that if I do a system I should use all one brand.) But I blew that sub. So I thought well this should be able to withstand the power rating and got the dub sub. (Since audiobahn backed it I had some faith. My door speakers are Audiobahn's AS65Q's and they work like a charm for me.)

Wait, you could run each vc to separate channels on the amp. abomb sucks and dub is their lowest end sub.

Oh. At the time of buying them I thought it was a good deal. I'm not a big audiophile or anythig. But I got all 4 of the door speakers for $120(US) or so. So if I was to run each voice coil a channel it would hit harder? Also this is an upgraded system. My old one consisted of a VR3 Amp (walmart crap) max output of 300w and an MTX Road Thunder sub...what I have now is considered an upgrade right?

What you have now is considered entry level into the car audio world. If you want good stuff then you have to be willing to shell out the money for it and usually the best stuff can't be bought in any local shops as they only carry the mainstream products which are mediocre. Currently I'm saving up to buy 2 hifonics bx2006d amps and a 18" kicker solo x with dual 1 ohm voice coils along with higher output alternator and 2 secondary optima yellow top batteries. After all is said and done the entire system will run me about 5 grand. The system you have now is about equal to what you had before the amp you upgraded but the subs you down graded so it equals out.

yeah, i had one of those VR3 amps (400x4) and it sux pretty bad. wiring each channel to separate vc would make the sub put out more because the way you have it now it is 8 ohms, one channel per vc would be 4 ohms per channel. make sure gain/bass boost is set the same for both channels or it will sound crappy. you could also bridge the amp with the sub's vcs wired in series.

i have a duell 300 watt amp put it in my wifes eclipse with 2 twelves turn on radio everything works fine push source button on deck to cd. it plays on front speakers fine the problem i am having is that the amp turns off right when the button is pressed thought it was the deck switched it out with another one same problem.some one told me that it could be the ground on the amp can anyone help me.

Is the amp coming on at all? Cause it could be your remote lead on the amp. It might be a lose ground or any lose connection for that matter.

Ok I have a Pioneer 520T amp. (Best thing from local walmart). And a Dub Audio 200 sub. (The only thing offered at our walmart that won't blow...tried the Pionner sub but the RMS was to low and I blew it.) Anyways, when wiring it...I want to get the most power out of it with some nice bass. Should I keep it bridged and how should I run the wires to the sub. Since it has dual voice coils (4 ohms each) and all? Run neg on 1 side to pos on other and use the open pos and neg to the amp or what? I was also wondering if I should run the amp in 2 channel mode. Like the left channel for one coil and the right for other. Or would that work?

Check out rockford's site, they have a nice wiring diagram...

my amp does come on but only when i play the radio. when i push the source button to cd the amp turns off

Have you tried turning the cd player on. Turning off everything and then when you turned it all back on does your cd player stay on. (Mine does and this might be my solution) If it does, is the amp on then? Because I am sort of thinking that your radio might be bad. Like the source button.

its not the radio i put in another deck the same thing is happening

my amp does come on but only when i play the radio. when i push the source button to cd the amp turns off

Sounds like you connected the power antennae lead from your hu to the remote lead on your amp.....

Power antenna is on as long as the hu is on. I always use the power antenna for a remote wire when i use more than 2 amps. But on some HU its a possibility.

i ran a wire from the hu to the remote on my amp the wire in the back of my hu has a fuse is that the remote wire or the power atenna? i am realy thankful for the help.

i ran a wire from the hu to the remote on my amp the wire in the back of my hu has a fuse is that the remote wire or the power atenna? i am realy thankful for the help.

negative...that's your steady hot...

i think i need to get car sterios for dummies lol what do you mean by steady hot

This particular wire lead, with the inline fuse, should be connected to a 12vdc pwr source that will not de-energize when the car is turned off.
The term steady hot refers to the fact that it is always energized, It is used to power your clock, keep system memory, etc when the car is off.

Navy thanks for the info i just have to see which wire is the remote i know thats its the blue one

in car stereo lingo ... it is usually referred to as "constant 12V"

I've heard it that way and hot wire but never steady hot.

i have a sony hu with a amp in it 52x4 and a 300 watt in the back is a 10g wire kit good enough

I wouldn't go smaller than 4ga.

With a 300 watt amp the smallest that you could go would be 8 gauge wire for power and ground. It would work with 10 gauge but if it ever shorts out somehow then you're looking at the insulation on the wire melting off and possibly causing a fire.

Ok I have a Pioneer 520T amp. (Best thing from local walmart). And a Dub Audio 200 sub. (The only thing offered at our walmart that won't blow...tried the Pionner sub but the RMS was to low and I blew it.) Anyways, when wiring it...I want to get the most power out of it with some nice bass. Should I keep it bridged and how should I run the wires to the sub. Since it has dual voice coils (4 ohms each) and all? Run neg on 1 side to pos on other and use the open pos and neg to the amp or what? I was also wondering if I should run the amp in 2 channel mode. Like the left channel for one coil and the right for other. Or would that work?

You should run the amp bridged into the sub but wire the sub’s voice coils in series. You will get the same power as running the sub in 2-channel mode but will have the advantage of mono operation. Mono operation is good for a dual voice coil design since stereo operation permits the voice coils to fight each other to move the cone if the signal is of differential nature.

A 2 ohm stable 2 channel amp is 4 ohm stable bridged and a 4 ohm 2 channel stable amp is 8 ohm stable bridged.