97 Continental Factory Alarm

Hello folks, been having this problem for a couple of years now, does not happen often but when it does it's usually in the middle of the night or early am. My lincoln is parked in the carport & im usually sleeping, the alarm will activate & I wake to the horn blowing & the parking lights flashing. I have found that it happens less often if I do not lock the doors but never the less it still happens. I am able to disarm it by clicking the unlock button on the remote. Does anyone know what might be causing this. Thanks in advance. BJ

Hello folks, been having this problem for a couple of years now, does not happen often but when it does it's usually in the middle of the night or early am. My lincoln is parked in the carport & im usually sleeping, the alarm will activate & I wake to the horn blowing & the parking lights flashing. I have found that it happens less often if I do not lock the doors but never the less it still happens. I am able to disarm it by clicking the unlock button on the remote. Does anyone know what might be causing this. Thanks in advance. BJ

Most of the time this is traced back to a door switch connection. It gets more complicated sometimes too.

I have the same problem, it seems almost time set,(between 6-8pm). Can you explain that a door switch connection is?

Hey Big John...
Did you fix yours?

[edit]
Also, I saw another post where the Hood Switch on the right fender was the curprit.

Hey Big John...
Did you fix yours?

[edit]
Also, I saw another post where the Hood Switch on the right fender was the curprit.

No, not yet, not sure what you mean by the hood switch, would that be like a push button switch in the door jam? BJ

No, not yet, not sure what you mean by the hood switch, would that be like a push button switch in the door jam? BJ

Yes, there's a "push button" type switch visable after the engine hood is opened. It's on the right hand (passenger side) fender, the switch pin touches the hood when it's fully lowered.

A few things are activated when that switch is opened, like the hood light, and the alarm system. One person describes trying to fix the switch be cleaning the contacts, and failed, then replaced the switch anyway.

He diagnosed the switch as the culprit after disconnecting it's plug, and jumping the plug to fool the system into thinking the switch was always closed. With the switch bypassed he reports never having an alarm setting off unexpectantly.

Yes, there's a "push button" type switch visable after the engine hood is opened. It's on the right hand (passenger side) fender, the switch pin touches the hood when it's fully lowered.

A few things are activated when that switch is opened, like the hood light, and the alarm system. One person describes trying to fix the switch be cleaning the contacts, and failed, then replaced the switch anyway.

He diagnosed the switch as the culprit after disconnecting it's plug, and jumping the plug to fool the system into thinking the switch was always closed. With the switch bypassed he reports never having an alarm setting off unexpectantly.

How do you "jump the plug"?

Is this the hood switch for a 99 Continental? If so, mine is on the driver's side. Should I just replace it?

http://www.850wholesale.com/steve/image/hood%20switch.jpg

Hey beachmaster, I've been away for awhile, and for some reason these threads stopped sending notices to my email, sorry....

How do you "jump the plug"?

In reference to the above quote, the poster disconnected the switch, and put a jumper wire across the vehicle wire connector -- that's what he reported.. however, if I'm not mistaken, that switch is "closed loop" when the hood is opened, meaning simply disconnecting it would serve the purpose.


Is this the hood switch for a 99 Continental? If so, mine is on the driver's side. Should I just replace it?


Yes it is, and refer to the reply above... I think disconnecting it would be a sufficient test. Also, disconnecting the switch should disable the engine compartment work lamp.

I have the same problem, it seems almost time set,(between 6-8pm). Can you explain that a door switch connection is?


Hi JM2Tall...
The door switch on a 1997 (without looking in the book) might be connected directly to the door latch assembly inside the door. My 1996 Town Car is this way. If you don't see an obvious switch on the door jams like BJ mentioned, it's most likely the same as mine, on the latch assembly.

I can look at the 1996 Conti manual for reference, but not at the moment...

Thanks TC!

I ckecked with the service manual and you have 2 possibilities... the lighting control module or the door module...Try testing the system by opening your drivers window,close the door and lock them by reaching into the car and hitting the lock switch.Look to see if your alarm indicator is on solid.if it is wait for it to start blinking then reach in and open the door by the handle...dont hit the unlock switch.just pull the handle.if the alarm doesnt go off then its you LCM.if it does go off then follow the same procedure but this time try to disarm the system via the keyless entry pad AND remote.If it shuts off by the door lock then its your door module.

P.S if noneof this works dont shoot me...im just the messanger.shoot ford...lol

I took it to the dealership last week. The problem was the trunk switch. They fixed it. They fixed my wallet too.... it was getting overweight anyway, so now I am $294 dollars lighter, but at least I can sleep at night.

DAMN!!!...300 buck for a switch?......you got soaked all right..but you do know why dealer prices are so high right?....they have to make money off the people that do pay cause of all the other people that have warrenties that aint paying....lol

P.S I didnt think of the truck switch.but glad it was something simple.

I took it to the dealership last week. The problem was the trunk switch......

Trunk Switch :disappoin That's a new one. I'd figure you'd also get a "trunk open / trunk ajar" warning if that was the problem.

Friggin stealerships... they probably got a trunk msg on the Star tester in 30 seconds.

Thanks for the final outcome post!

At least they did find it. It hasn't gone off once since then. But they really should be ashamed for charging like they do. There was even a charge of $19 for use of their shop tools. For cryin out loud.

I looked that up in the manual and apperently that switch is built into the latch itself so thats why they soaked ya.Did you look up getting the part cheaper from someone else before you let the(as tc calls them)stealership do the work?

Sorry I have not been back for awhile the forum stopped sending me e-mails for new replies & I thought the thread had died. I stll haven't gotten the problem fixed, took a look for the trunk switch & could not find it in a visible location, does someone know where it is? If I could get to it I will just unhook it. BJ

---I stll haven't gotten the problem fixed, took a look for the trunk switch & could not find it in a visible location, does someone know where it is? If I could get to it I will just unhook it. BJ

I'm pretty sure the only switches in the trunk are at the latch and pulldown assembly. There's a few wires in there, some operate the pulldown.