How to support engine

I have a 98 malibu 3.1 L that has a coolant leak from I beleive the manifold. There is a small puddle near where the oil pump drive gear is. I think it moght be comming from the coolant passage at the manifold. I am first going to try and tighten the outboard manifold bolt , or re-torque them all. I will have to remove the upper manifold, no problem. If I have to remove the lower manifold , I will have to remove the power steering pump and to do that I will have to remove the engine mount on that side. I know that GM has an engine support and I assume it is probably expensive. Can I just get away with a jack under the engine, remove the mount, then the pump and put the mount back on ? ..... or what... any suggestions on the leak, the engine support or ...? can I improvise an engine support ? where should i jack the engine from ?

I just recently got done replacing all the Gaskets on the engine from the block up. You can use a floor jack to supprt the engine. Just place the jack about center of the oil pan. The oil pan is made from a good quality aluminum and it will certainly hold the weight of the engine. Just raise the floor jack to the bottom of the oil pan and then give it about one more crank up and that should do the trick for you. You only need to raise the engine up enough the relieve the pressure from the bolts that go to the engine mount.

Hope this helps.

adrenalin

Yes thanks,,,, helps a lot
two more questions if you do not mind
why did you do the gasket replacements ?
how long did it take ?
what did you use for sealant for the bottom manifold gasket on the the end peices that a level where there is not a gasket ?

... anything else you might think od also

The Trouble Shooter kit has "black" gasket sealer. The leak was exactly where you identified it on my car. Yes - a floor jack is sufficient.

You may want to use a small piece of 2x4 across the jack saddle to distribute the weight across the pan. Failure to do so could crack the oil pan, especially if you have a cheap little jack where the saddle is only about 2" in diameter. The only thing tightening the bolts will do is risk breaking the aluminum manifold. The gasket has bought the farm (like they all do) and needs to be replaced. Fel-Pro makes a new, redesigned intake set (part #MS98003T) that addresses this issue and comes with the valve cover gaskets also. You should replace the oil pump drive o-ring (fel-Pro #70800) while it's apart (since you can't get to it without removing the upper plenum and throttle body) as this is another weak point on the 3100/3400 V-6's. I also use a small block Chevy paper gasket (Fel-Pro 70194) between the top of the block and the housing as added insurance if the o-ring fails again. Don't forget the thermostat (ac-Delco 131-124) because like the o-ring, it's a bear to change with everything assembled.

Richtazz is completely 100 % right. I failed to add those tidbits in my haste to answer you, but I did replace the O-ring, along with the fuel rail O-rings, some of the injector o-rings, the thermostat etc. as well.

thanks for the answers

I was going to use a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan. On my 2003 Impala, there is actually a warning cast into the aluminum to use a block of wood if lifting there at the oil pan.

I broke the engine down in 4 hours and it took me 2 days to get the heads back. I put it back together in 6 hours (taking my time to make sure everything was correctly done).

Please remember to put the push rods back in their respective places and double check everything and get new bolts for the heads( if removing them and getting them checked out) and new bolts for the intake (upper and lower). Also get new bolts for the exhaust manifolds.

Remember that this engine is aluminum and bolts are as well. Do not force anything and do not over tighten the bolts. The will brake and or strip out. The exhaust manifold bolts are the biggest concern. Because it is actually a stud with a nut. Remove the nut off of the stud before placing them back in the engine.

Patience in the key to doing this job right. Plus it can be a lot of fun and interesting.

adrenalin

P.S. Replace the coolant and the oil with new stuff.

adrenalin2k4

1. Why did you do the heads ? I am probably just going to do the lower intake gasket on up
2. What manufacturer of gasket did you use ?
3. did you use the Felpro kit ?
4. What sealant did you use at the bottom where there is not a gasket.? is RTV the same as silicone. I am not a big fan of silicone sealants. If some one could suggest a different sealant.
5. Is there a top end gasket kit , that has everything , like "o" rings ...etc.
6. Thanks for the info, will deffinately get the new bolts,,,, are you sure the bolts are aluminum, i find that hard to beleive. ?
7. the times it took will help me plan this,,, are you a professional mechanic ?


thanks :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes:

Felpro makes the new upgrade gasket and it the one that i used.

If you just get the Intake Manifold Gasket Kit? It will only have the upper and the lower gasket and you will have to replace both.

But, being that you have to basically tear everything down to get to the lower intake gasket it is best to get the whole kit. You will have to remove the fuel rail and the EGR valve. The Fuel Injectors have 2 o-rings per injector and the EGR valve has 2 gaskets on it. It is best to replace all o-rings on the Injectors and the Gaskets on the EGR valve will destroy themselves upon reoval. so you definately have to replace them. It will have all the geaskets, seal and O-rings that you need to do the job. They have a complete gasket kit which will have every gasket for the engine. But, all you need is the upper half of the motor gasket kit. It comes with all the gaskets from the block upwards, including the heads gaskets. Either kit that you get will have have the Black heat resistant sealant included in the kit.

My car was getting hot so i knew that it was best to get the heads checked out and make sure they wasn't warped. The was in fact warped. One was warped .008 and the other was warped .012. The heads like the rest of the upper engine is aluminum and has a good tendancy to warp due to the heat involved. But, if your wasn't getting hot and or over heating. Then more than likely you are just fine. But, i know that it is a good idea to change out the head gasket just to prevent future work and having to replace the other gaskets in case you do have to change the head gasket.

The first thing you need to buy before you get anything else is the Hanes Do-It-Yourself manual. It will tell you how to check and see what type engine it is. It will be either a "W" or a "J" type engine and you will be asked that at your local auto part store. One kit does cost more than the other. I just don't know which one is more expensive.

Hope this helps you out.

if you have anymore questiions? Please do not hesitate to ask. i will help you out the best that i can.


adrenalin

adrenalin2k4
thanks for the help
I have both the Hanes and The factory manual from Helm. The hanes leaves out a lot of critical info, like the motor mount has to be removed. It is still a good reference book.
My malibu has not started to overheat. It is just leaking coolant to the outside. Which now that I think about it... I always assumed that coolant in the oil would not mix and would make a white like mayo looking on the dipstick, is that correct , or could it still dilute the oil ?
basically, how can you tell if the oil contains coolant ?

adrenalin2k4
thanks for the help
I have both the Hanes and The factory manual from Helm. The hanes leaves out a lot of critical info, like the motor mount has to be removed. It is still a good reference book.
My malibu has not started to overheat. It is just leaking coolant to the outside. Which now that I think about it... I always assumed that coolant in the oil would not mix and would make a white like mayo looking on the dipstick, is that correct , or could it still dilute the oil ?
basically, how can you tell if the oil contains coolant ?

The oil will look like chocolate milk. Almost the same with the coolant except it will be in bubbles. Little spot of milky looking substance. I have seen them mix before. Depending on how long the engine was ran like that. Pull the dipstick and check and see if you can see any thing like that at all. If so? Then do what you need to do to get the job done right.

adrenalin

I just changed the oil 2 weeks ago, looked normal. Checked the dipstick last night, looked ok. It is just leaking to the outside. It is getting worse though.