Oil gauge on Caprice

Is it normal for the oil gauges on these cars to be at the halfway mark, and go down when your not accelerating, and then back up to the halfway mark or a lil higher when you accelerate? Because thats what mine was doing, and I just got my oil changed, and I checked the oil and it looks like I have enough..I was just wondering why it would stay at the halfway mark.

Also, the temperature gauge. I was driving the Caprice the other day and it was I guess 70 or so degrees outside, and the temperature gauge was at the halfway mark also. Should I be concerned about this when it starts getting hotter? Will I have overheating problems possibly?

I live in Maryland now, so it doesnt get TOO hot here, but in the summer its in the low 90's and high 80's I guess.

Is it normal for the oil gauges on these cars to be at the halfway mark, and go down when your not accelerating, and then back up to the halfway mark or a lil higher when you accelerate? Because thats what mine was doing, and I just got my oil changed, and I checked the oil and it looks like I have enough..I was just wondering why it would stay at the halfway mark.

Also, the temperature gauge. I was driving the Caprice the other day and it was I guess 70 or so degrees outside, and the temperature gauge was at the halfway mark also. Should I be concerned about this when it starts getting hotter? Will I have overheating problems possibly?

I live in Maryland now, so it doesnt get TOO hot here, but in the summer its in the low 90's and high 80's I guess.

Sounds like everything is working the way it should. What year is your car?

The position of the oil pressure needle is dependant on how well the oil pump can get its job done. Over time, as the clearances open up due to wear, the pressure will gradually fall. As long as its reading and the engine is running good with the oil at the right level, and it doesn't drop as you're driving, you're golden. The temp gauge is reading about what it should be. The thermostat in the engine will prevent it from dropping below 185-195 while it's at operating temp (the approx. halfway mark on your gauge).

Oh ok. Yea, its a 94. It seems like its running fine except for a few minor things, but Im going to have it checked out to make sure everything with it is fine.

Do these cars usually last a long time if you take care of them?

Oh ok. Yea, its a 94. It seems like its running fine except for a few minor things, but Im going to have it checked out to make sure everything with it is fine.

Do these cars usually last a long time if you take care of them?

Mine's an '88 and its engine has .25 million on it.

10 PSI per 1,000 RPM is all that's necessary.

Sounds like everything is working the way it should. What year is your car?

The position of the oil pressure needle is dependant on how well the oil pump can get its job done. Over time, as the clearances open up due to wear, the pressure will gradually fall. As long as its reading and the engine is running good with the oil at the right level, and it doesn't drop as you're driving, you're golden. The temp gauge is reading about what it should be. The thermostat in the engine will prevent it from dropping below 185-195 while it's at operating temp (the approx. halfway mark on your gauge).

Well, it doesnt drop when Im driving, but when I come to a stop it drops down to the quarter mark. (It isnt in the red zone) I might just go ahead and get a new oil pump so I have nothing to worry about.

Well, it doesnt drop when Im driving, but when I come to a stop it drops down to the quarter mark. (It isnt in the red zone) I might just go ahead and get a new oil pump so I have nothing to worry about.


An oil pump isn't going to help you one bit. If you're that worried about the oil pressure, get the engine rebuilt. You'll find that a new oil pump installed won't increase your oil pressure, because oil pumps are almost never the cause of low pressure. If you're getting low pressure at idle, that's an indication that your main and rod bearings are worn. Especially if you hear a rattling clattering sound for a few seconds when you start the engine.

If you're in deeply enough to replace the oil pump, you might as well get yourself a set of main and rod shells for about $45. That will assure your clearances are at least no greater due to bearing wear. If you're not in a hurry, you could mic the crank when you pull it and see it it's a candidate for regrinding.

Or, you could QUIT using the 5W30 that's indicated in the oil fill cap, read the owner's manual, and start using 10W30 - preferably synthetic - to keep your pressure more respectable and engine lasting longer.

Before you do any of that, however, temporarily connect a test pressure gauge and see what the actual pressure is, instead of the relative, non-graduated indication given by the factory gauge.

10 PSI per 1,000 RPM is all that's necessary.

BTW - Did you miss that part?

BTW - Did you miss that part?


Yea, I missed that post. I will check into the things you guys said. Thanks