about the 1g cam sensor?

By what this website says, when i make the wiring harness for the 1g cam sensor it does away with my 2 crank sensor correct? so if thAts the case i do not need to put my cranksensor back in when my engine is completed correct?

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

Also which method is better?

Method #2 looks easier to do tho lol

Not trying to hijack the thread but anyway; I was reading in the link provided above that when you do the CAS swap you need a data logger to double check timing or to get "base" timing correct. I dont have one, but I am doing a complete 6-bolt swap. Is this going to affect me at all or do I need to just make the wiring harness adjustments? Thanks.

Kevin where are you at????

By what this website says, when i make the wiring harness for the 1g cam sensor it does away with my 2 crank sensor correct? so if thAts the case i do not need to put my cranksensor back in when my engine is completed correct?

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

Also which method is better?

Method #2 looks easier to do tho lol



It does away witht he crank sensor? Well the cam angle sensor is for the timing of the car. Is the crank sensor the same on the 2g?

Not trying to hijack the thread but anyway; I was reading in the link provided above that when you do the CAS swap you need a data logger to double check timing or to get "base" timing correct. I dont have one, but I am doing a complete 6-bolt swap. Is this going to affect me at all or do I need to just make the wiring harness adjustments? Thanks.

Kevin where are you at????


As for timing. I don't know if it applies to 2g's but seeing if you are doing a complete swap I can't see it being ot terriably different from the way you would time a 1g car.

where as you would set the car to TDC and the cam's to their timing marks, and than time it from there using a timing light.

where as you would set the car to TDC and the cam's to their timing marks, and than time it from there using a timing light.

thats what I had planned on doing from the beggining, then I did some reading in that link and I wanted to make sure. I figured I would be safe doing it the way I had planned but a little reassurance never hurt anyone. Thanks.

thats what I had planned on doing from the beggining, then I did some reading in that link and I wanted to make sure. I figured I would be safe doing it the way I had planned but a little reassurance never hurt anyone. Thanks.


There is a plug you have to ground out on the 1g's as well in order to time it so the ecu doesn't keep trying to compensate when you move the CAS

I read the link. The datalogger and what not, I think is more to assist you to find the stock timing easier than normal. I don't see any reason that you have to have that as long as you have an adjustable timing light.

I will post on DSMLINK forum guys to see if we can get some better knowledge on this. Unless Kevin would come around plz:grinyes: lol

I will post on DSMLINK forum guys to see if we can get some better knowledge on this. Unless Kevin would come around plz:grinyes: lol


I also would like to know the answer to this question.

Well here is some of the answers i have recieved from dsmlink forum.

1. Yes, the 1g CAS takes care of both the Crank signal, and Cam signal in a 2g car. I, as well as many others have done it this way. You won't have to worry about any misfire problem as DSMlink is here to the rescue.

2. Doesn't really matter. Method 2 is easier IMHO because you don't need the signal inverter since you have DSMLink.

3. If you still have a 2G crank sensor, my preference would be to use only the cam signal from the 1G CAS and retain use of the 2G crank sensor. Ignition and injector timing will be more precise.

Thats it so far

I wish kevin was around to answer some of these damn questions!!!!

DSMLINK forums have a couple of different answers.

Dsmlink forums are a who diffrent universe of dsmtuning. It's a little over whelming the shit thats on their.

Dsmlink forums are a who diffrent universe of dsmtuning. It's a little over whelming the shit thats on their.


Yeah tell me about it, i have no clue on some of shit i have been reading.

The answers from DSMlink seem accurate. If you can get away with using the 2g crank sensor, use the 1g sensor just for the cam signal and you wont have to worry about RM CELs, DSMlinked or not.

If you keep the crank signal there is no need to set the ignition timing. In fact, it won't be possible. If you use the 1g sensor for both signals the ignition timing becomes adjustable and has to be set with a timing light. In order to get the ECU to hold timing steady, ground the appropriate pin on the 1g, or the brown plug on the firewall near the batter on the 95s. For other 2g I don't believe there is any way to do this, and this is why the "ground diag" feature was added to DSMlink. The only other alternative is to set timing while cranking, since the ECU doesn't alter timing and it stays at 5 degrees. Pull the plugs and hold the throttle open so it cranks faster. Disconnect the injectors and coil pack so it won't start. Or pull the fuel pump relay if you are rewired. Etc.

The mehtod that doesn't require signal inversion is what I used, even before DSMlink. You just have to swap the wires on the coil pack, and if you want, shift all the injectors by one pin at the ECU harness plug. RRE has instructions for this.

If I missed anything or something is not clear, feel free to ask again. It's pretty late.

So if i keep my crank sensor in all good to go? But there are 4 wires on the 1g cam sensor and only 3 on my 2g sensor plug, what do i do with the forth?

Also this is the method you went with? Im lost, so if i do it the way i just said do i have to switch my plug wires around? And what is the point of moving the injector pins over one if you say i can do it if i want!!! That makes me think there is no reason to move them. But im sure you can explain why, like always lol. What ever way you say to go thats the way im going, you seem to know whats best. Thanx alot kevin

Eric

OH also since im most likely keeping my crank sensor i do not do anything from the website? RRE

Use the easy method to wire in the crank signal from the 1g cas into your stock plug for the cam signal. Should be power, ground, and signal. The 4th wire is the crank signal ;)

I didn't personally do this, since I went straight to a 6 bolt, which makes it impossible to keep the 2g crank sensor.

I'm not sure if you will have to swap plug wires using "half" of the 1g sensor. If it wont start, switch the wires on the coils ;)

If it does require switching the plug wires, you could also benefit from moving the injector wires around. The idea is that the 1g sensor is a little bit out of phase from stock, so the wrong injector fires. At wot they are batch fired so there is no effect there. It's more for part throttle driveabilty. Which is why I say you can do it if you want. Many poeple really only care about things working right at WOT.

Sorry but in think i am confusing you, hell im confusing myself lol. Anyways i am going to keep my 2g crank sensor in the car and just going to use the 1g cam sensor for cam signal. You explain on wiring but it sounds to me your explaing wiring for the crank sensor. On the RRE website it does not show how to just wire cam sensor. But what you explain is just one wire for crank so i just do nothing with that wire? And it does not show which all 3 wires goto what color on the plug, it only shows 2?

Thanx again, this is driving me nuts!!!!

I'm not confused at all. :) It's all in my previous posts. Power, ground, cam signal. Both stock connectors (for crank and cam) have power and ground. Doesn't matter which ones you use. Use the set for the cam sensor obviously. And the cam signal line. Obviously you don't connect the crank signal output from the 1g sensor, you are using the stock 2g crank sensor. It's a lot simpler than it may seem. ;)

I have been thinking about this the last few days. Whats the big advantage of keeping the crankshaft sensor? Besides that you do not need to time the vehicle. Is there any other big issue? The reason i am asking is because in my town the sensor is $75!!! If the 1g cam sensor does the same thing but need ta timing light why not do that? Im sure there is no performance issues here on which way i go is there?

So everyone that swaps out the 7 bolt for a 6bolt you need to time the vehicle? Its not really that hard to get it timed correctly with a timing light is it? I have done 350 chevy it must be the same principle. But your turning the cam sensor instead of a distrbutor.

Thanx Eric

Keeping the crank sensor negates the need for DSMlink to avoid random misfire CEL and limpmode. A worthy cause IMO if you are running a 7 bolt block. Some poeple have figured out how to use hyundai parts to run a crank sensor on the 6 bolts too, but I don't have the specifics on this. If you have DSMlink already just run the 1g CAS for both signals.

Your comment about timing the motor is correct. There is a mark on the crank pulley, graduations on the timing belt cover, and you turn the CAS to adjust. If you are using a crank sensor the timing is fixed. You can put the timing light pickup on sparkplug wire 1 or 4, both are fired at the same time.

Ok cool thanx alot, i do have dsmlink, i got it about 2 months ago now and the computer is still sitting in my dresser lol. So i will just run the 1g cas for both, thanx alot man i need to save money anyway i can lol i have spent way more than i planned allready. I took a 2k loan out and still have spent $1500 lol

I have been trying to follw Method 1 (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g95-96.htm) from RRE's website on how to wire the CAS for both crank and cam signal. If someone could identify what parts these two numbers(NTE7404 and NTE977) refer to I would appreciate it. Help as fast as possible is appreciated because I am working on it right now, and I have to be to work monday. thanks ;)

P.S. I thought NTE7404 was the part of the ecu harness but the numbering systems arent consisent. thanks again.

I have been trying to follw Method 1 (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g95-96.htm) from RRE's website on how to wire the CAS for both crank and cam signal. If someone could identify what parts these two numbers(NTE7404 and NTE977) refer to I would appreciate it. Help as fast as possible is appreciated because I am working on it right now, and I have to be to work monday. thanks ;)

P.S. I thought NTE7404 was the part of the ecu harness but the numbering systems arent consisent. thanks again.

Sry man i cannot help you out on them numbers, i wish i could. I did method 2 and finished it today, changed coil wires around, changed injector wires around in ecu harness and made a new harness to run both signals off the 1g CAS.

Why you want method 1 when method 2 is so much easier? JUst curious

I guess I am just going to change to method 2. I don't think I have any questions about it. I just like the fact that with method one you didn't have to mess with the ingnition at all. oh well. I would appreciate it if you would check back later tonight incase I have any questions. Thanks. ;)

I am about done with my swap, but I have been wondering, what does everyone do with there MAP sensor from the 2G stock manifold. my 1G manifold doesnt have anywhere for a MAP, and i never read where i needed to go and have it machined in. what has everyone else done? thanks.

IF you have DSMlink, you don't need to run the MAP sensor. If you do, just put a 3/16th hose on it and give it a manifold pressure source. The P port on the 1g TB for example.

Here is a picture of one from dsmtuners.

http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32993&d=1087781655

IF you have DSMlink, you don't need to run the MAP sensor. If you do, just put a 3/16th hose on it and give it a manifold pressure source. The P port on the 1g TB for example.


So since i have dsmlink, is there a setting in the program i have to do if i do not hook the MAP up? And will my check engine light still be on?

Go to the ECU menu, DTCs, and uncheck the appropriate box. I believe it will say EGR. The MAP sensor's only purpose in life is to tell the ECU if the EGR is working or not. Unfortunately I don't have DSMlink in front of me to verify that's what the applicable checkbox is called.

I blocked off my EGR, but I dont have DSMlink, so do I still need to run the MAP? Thanks.

You might still have to at leave it connected so the ECU doesn't throw a CEL. Just plumb it up to that P port and leave it sitting on the IM somewhere.

Yeah that is what I wound up doing. My other question now is, do I have to have an adjustable timing light in order to time my car or will a normal one work?

also if i do need the adjustable one could someone please explain why?

last question for right now, what did you use for radiator hoses? I have a butchered together set up right now, but I am not very proud of it, also are the 1G radiator fills in line and not part of a housing? currently i dont have a fill cap, so I am trying to figure something out. my 6-bolt came out of a GVR4 so I am not sure how many differences there are between the set ups. thanks.

Use the water neck from a 1g, it has the fill cap on it. I also used the 1g lower radiator hose. Not sure which I used on the upper. Probably 2g.

A regular timing light is fine, and is what I use.

ok i have a 2g stroker ... so 7bolt head and 7 bolt block ... i also have dsm link ... will the 1g CAS bolt up to the 7bolt head? I am tired of clearing my Crank Position Sensor Malfuntion Code EVERYMORNING just to start my car :( ... purchased a new crank positioning sensor .. still same problem... so i was hoping this coud cure my problems. So can i bolt up a 1g CAS to a 7bolt head ??? THANKS!

Yes, it will work. With DSMlink, you'll be all set, just disable the RM DTC. USe the RRE instructions for wiring, the one without the fancy chip... Just remember that you will be responsible for setting base timing to 5 degrees, since it will now be adjustable.