Chainging The Oil... And Brake Question

2001 Ga Se 2.4L

BRAKES:
when i bought my car when you apply the brakes it pulses when the car stops i had the front rotors replaced cuz they were wore out, so i thought that may have been the case that the rotors were warped they were so it was fine for a bit, but it still pulses when stopping, so then last week i had the back drums replaced cuz they were worn out, i thought that helped then it started to pulse again, ive been trying to find an answer from GM and people online and i get the same response that the rotors are warped etc, they arent warped i had them taken down and reworked, and when i stop soemtimes they feel normal and it brakes smooth sometimes it pulses bad sometimes, and when im going from 60 to 0 itll be fine till about 30 and start pulsing real bad and it feels like that brakes are to tight and it feels like the ABS is about to kick in.

OIL:
i wanna start changing my own oil cuz i dont trust the guys at GM where i live i bought my own FRAM oil filter and Castrol oil and asked them to use the materials i bought they said they did when i checked the oil filter they used there shitty GM parts and charged me extra for having my own parts, but they never used them, also my car is at 70,000 km its not alot but i wanna start using premium oil and filters , i know that when i my buddy changes the oil in his car he buys this cleaner that he puts in the engine after hes drained it and lets his car run for 5 minutes before the new oil in. basicall i wanna know the best way to change the oil in my car , to keep the engine running well. PARTS AND OIL im curious about FRAM oil filters say there better etc... gimmicks and shit same with oil but i want some opinions from people.

Thanks

I just read and thread about Raybestos PG brakes, they sound good i checked them out anyone else recommend them and if i wanted to swap my front brakes i have now should i replaced everything Rotors calipers and brake pads, anything else i should replace.

What do you think about power slotted rotors....http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PFYC&Product_Code=GN4004&Product_Count=0&Category_Code=GASUSP

Your brakes will pulse!
It is the ABS doing its job to keep the car under control when skidding.
When you get down to the 30mph range, and below, they tend to not work as well.

I hav had one of every model GA, and own 2 99 GA's now, and they all do this.

Power Slots are great!
If you can get a pair for under $200, I'd call it a good deal.

My friend has some on his 05 GA Sct, and he says they are 100% better than any rotors he has ever had on any of his cars.
I hav driven his car and they are grabby!
They dont get rusty(so far) because they are coated with Zinc I believe to prevent rust.
With ceramic pads they dont leave dust in your rims like other brake pads.

Frams not the best, I would say Gm(the blu ones) are better. Cheap filters can let oil blow by under extreame conditions and not even filter it :(
K&N are high temp sealed and not "suposed" to let oil blow through. I hav One I am getting ready to cut and seee how its done.
Thier are other great filters, but they arnt cheap.
I would say It doesnt hurt to use Fram air filters if you change them every oil change, they are really cheap so change offten.

I'm sure many others will tell about thier experiances good and bad. Everyone has thier own opinions about filters.

Good Hunting Kidlex01

I use fram filters, castrol syntec full synthetic oil, change my own oil, filter gets changed at 7500 miles, oil at 15000 miles. Basically I'm too lazy to do it every 3000, which is why I run synthetic. The car has had syntec in it since the 5th oil change (15000 miles or so), now it has 255000 miles and its a 2.3 dohc quad. I've read the reviews about oil filters, take them with a grain of salt as every review you read will be slanted towards the reviewer's point of view. Talk to your friends, local mechanics etc. about what they think is the best filter. Some will tell you dealer parts are the best, alot will not. Personally, I won't buy gm parts unless I have to as I have been burned by gm parts a few times, and the crappy thing about it was they were pain in the ass parts to replace (thermostat, water pump, heater core etc.). Good luck, ask lots of questions, we'll answer them.

im going with a set of ebc slotted and drilled rotors and there brake pads, what else do i need to install them will i need the shoes and will they work with the gm stock calipers ?

im going with a set of ebc slotted and drilled rotors and there brake pads, what else do i need to install them will i need the shoes and will they work with the gm stock calipers ?

??? -pads and shoes, would be the same thing.

I dont know about EBC, but unless youre at the track every weekend, I woulndt waste money on those drilled rotors.
They will crack around the holes and then you will need to replace them.

Unless the holes are Cast into the rotors.
Sloted ones that are milled/drilled, are weakend by the heat from machining them. Once you drill a rotor, the heat damages the hardness of the steal.

Power slots are cast, they dont hav metal fatigue when you get them.
So they wear good and even and they are less prone to warpage. which causes excessive vibrations when braking.

i looked back the the slotted rotors at pyfc.com and read some more about the drilled rotors verses cast and it makes sense, so anyways

i will go with the slotted ones, now what do i need to install them myself.

i should probably get new pads as well, now if i buy new pads , do i have to buy the shoes that go with the pads and they will work with the GM factory calipers.

i should probably get new pads as well, now if i buy new pads , do i have to buy the shoes that go with the pads and they will work with the GM factory calipers.

I thought I clearified the pad-shoe thing. ........ :o

The pads and rotors, if they are stock size, would fit stock calipers.
If you replace the rotors, buy new pads(shoes) as well.

Probley a manual for all the specs would help.

You'll need wrenches/sockets to remove the calipers(13mm), brake grease for the pins, probley a big C-clamp to push the pistons back in the calipers.
Brake fluid, oh ya and a wrench for the bleeder valve, think its 10mm.

BUT I'd be carfull you can screw up your ABS if you dont do things properly, thats why I'd suggest getting a manual so you'll know exzctly what to do.
Hell a cheap manuals are like $15-20 and well worth it.

Oil change
I don't know why your buddy runs a cleaner after he takes out the old oil, sounds like a waste of money (price of cleaner) & he's probably shortening up the life of his motor everytime he does this (since the cleaners usually don't protect the bearings like oil does), seems like he's doing more damage then a little dirty oil would do. just my :2cents: He's putting the cleaner in to get out all of the old dirty oil, but when he puts in his new oil he has cleaner left in the motor (lifters ect...) which means his new oil doesn't protect as well as it should. If he's that worried about it tell him to run new oil (instead of cleaner, then change the oil & filter, it would be better for the motor, but still a waste of money.

Brakes
Front disc brakes use pads
Rear disc brakes use pads (which he doesn't have)
Rear drum brakes use shoes (which he does have)

Your asking if you need to replace the shoes when you put on the new slotted rotors & pads (front), are your brake shoes worn out? Thought you said you just had them replaced?

10mm for bleeding the brakes? Why do you need to bleed the brakes if your only putting on a new rotor & pads? I've heard many people who work at dealerships say you need to bleed them after you replace the pads, I'll take that fight anyday ... I haven't ever bleed the brakes after just replacing the pads, and i've done alot of brakes in past 15 yrs. Anyhow most people who ask for brake help on here haven't done them, don't know the correct way to bleed brakes, and put themselves in more danger if they don't bleed them right, then they do by not bleeding them. again my :2cents:

Im looking for that manual, thanks alot, ive done alot of car work mostly electrcial and some engine work but not alot of brake work, or oil changes im just getting into all of that. But thanks for all the help.

should i reall yog out and buy new rotors and pads if i just replaced them last year, i just read this whole thing from an online manual about GA and the brakes pulsating because of latteral run out and it has to do with the rotor pin moving back and forth because the pads have worn unevenly, and they say there is a plate that they can put behind the pad to correct this, i just want my car to stop normally and not pulsate when i stop it has nothign to do witht he ABS cuz my abs didnt owrk for the longest time and the brakes still pulsated. what should i do? cuz none of the mechanics here understand shit and i tell GM over and over and tell me theres ntohing wrong with it.

If your rotors & pads are good then there is no need to replace them, fix your problem. Pull the calipers off the car and make sure your slide pins are lubed & move freely, if they are not then they could be whats warping the rotors or giving you the vibration. If your pads are wearing unevenly then thats probably whats happening, I just had a cherokee thats used on a mail route go thru a front pad in 30 days, only 1 pad, sure enough I missed the stuck slide pins when doing the brakes before, live and learn.

Doesn't take much to take the calipers off, 13mm socket, pull the pads off, use a big c-clamp to push the caliper piston back in, pull out the slide pins, lube, make sure they slide easy, put the pads back on, put the caliper back on, wheel back on, pump the brakes, start car & pump the brakes until they feel normal. good luck & tell us how you came out.

good pointers thier gmack221 !

One other thing that can warp the rotors is not having the proper torque on the lug nuts, which is 100 ft#'s.

Another funny thing I hav seen on newr cars, is that the pads are on backwards Lol, the brake pads with the wear indicator, goes on the inside of the rotors not the outside.
I find it funny, because the last person working on these cars was a stealership :disappoin