Need Help witha few things

I just bought a 1997 Grand Prix GT with a 3800 motor in it v6. This care has a few "known" issues that are posted ont he forums.

Problem 1:

I'm having a problem were when i turn the air on from 1-4 it does not work and the lights dim as well as the DIC goes dark. The air only works on 5. If i turn the Air on to 5 and then start the car everything is fine as long as i dont turn the knob to 1-4 (Note DIC does nto darken nor does lights dim)

What i have done for Problem 1:
I have changed the Blower Motor resistor and the whole Knob peace incase it was the switch. When i bought the part at pontiac i made sure to tell them that there are 2 diffrent parts for the resistor and that i had the manual one.

Anyone have any more ideas or can tell me were i can get the elecrital web skematic for this car.

Problem 2:

Ok, when my Gas gets to 1/2 tank it all of a sudden goes to full and sometimes it just gets a bit below 1/2 tank and the DIC indicates that i'm low on fuel. At this point i fill it caus ei dont want to take a risk so not sure how much is really int he tank.

What i did for Problem 2:

I went ot he auto parts store and they want $400.00 for the fuel pump. Now my understanding is that the problem here is not the fual pump of antoehr part of the fuel pump thats attached. I asked the auto parts store if i can get this sensor or what ever its called seprate and the guy said that its all one peace.

Is it true that its one peace?

Thanks for the help anyone that can help. I liek the care and this care is like in excellent condition except for the problems mentioned here and 2 others that are like at the bottom of my list :)

Your first problem sounds like a defective ignition switch and harness assembly. It is a common problem and your symptoms are consistent with the ignition switch.

Problem 2 is a fuel level sending unit and float. It is located at the bottom of the fuel pump assembly. It can be replaced separately without having the replace the complete expensive fuel pump assembly. I replaced mine.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelsensor.jpg

Bnaylor3400 Thanks so much for your post. I called the auto part place and they dont sell the loat alone so i'm goign to call the dealer on monday. As for the switch harness (cable thingy) Is it hard to change?

Bnaylor3400 Thanks so much for your post. I called the auto part place and they dont sell the loat alone so i'm goign to call the dealer on monday. As for the switch harness (cable thingy) Is it hard to change?

Heres a pic of the complete switch. Can be changed DIY. I have a short procedure on how to do it including gettting the key tumbler off. Let me know and I'll post it.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/switch_igntion.gif

If you can post the procedure that would be great. I'm a bit scraed to do much with this car or any car now a days sinceits all elecronic (what ever happened to good old carbs and rear end drive hehe).

If you can post the procedure that would be great. I'm a bit scraed to do much with this car or any car now a days sinceits all elecronic (what ever happened to good old carbs and rear end drive hehe).

Here is the procedure to give you an idea whether to do it DIY or take it to a auto mechanic. A little tedious.


BEFORE BEGINING THIS REPAIR REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DO THE REPAIR WITHOUT DOING THIS.

Look inside the slot where the tilt steering knob is located. There is a black metal piece where the knob inserts into the tilt mechanism. Pry it back slightly with a small screwdriver. One from an electronics tool set will work. While you have it pried, pull the knob out and it should release.

Remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and remove the cover.

Remove the two screws that hold the top steering column cover in place.

Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key clockwise to the start position. Nothing will happen because you have disconnected the battery prior to starting this project. Lift the top steering column cover being careful not to break it because it is still held in place by the ignition key cylinder. You will see with your mirror near the back end of the cylinder housing a small hole. Stick a small allen wrench in the hole, this will release the key cylinder so that it can be pulled out. Once the key cylinder is removed the column top cover is free to be removed.

The black box below the key cylinder with all of the wires coming out of it is the ignition switch that you are changing. Look at the switch you have purchased for this repair. Notice that the small white plug with two wires attached has a tab on the side that can be pushed down, this is the release for the plug-in. Using your mirror you will see that plug-in against the ignition switch housing where it plugs in. Using a small screw driver press the release tab in against the plug and rotate the plug 90 degrees to the right to remove it. To do otherwise may break the plug.

Remove the plug from the white key release device by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it.

Undo the two screws holding the ignition switch.

Undo the plug at the opposite end of the ignition switch by unscrewing the bolt in the center of the plug and unplugging it.

There is a black wiring plug on top and a gray one on the bottom of the ignition switch plug that need to be removed. This is done by prying the center of the plug case where it meets the ignition harness plug while sliding it forward.

Cut any tywraps holding the wire harness in place and feed it out of the dash.

To install do the reverse of the above, and tywrap the new harness into place. Be sure to properly align the key cylinder when replacing it in the housing and if the key will not come out of the cylinder there is a silver key release button at the bottom of the white device in front of the ignition switch. Press it and the key will come out. Also when replacing the ignition switch make sure that the slot in the switch is properly aligned with the corresponding part on the steering column that fits in the slot.

Thanks a bunch for your help and info. This looks like something i can do but scary hehehe. Well once i get these 2 things done then i'm off to figuring out were the sensor for the low coolant light is. Damn light comes on only first start in the morning.

Thanks again a bunch.

Thanks a bunch for your help and info. This looks like something i can do but scary hehehe. Well once i get these 2 things done then i'm off to figuring out were the sensor for the low coolant light is. Damn light comes on only first start in the morning.

Thanks again a bunch.

You're welcome.

The coolant level sensor is located on the right side (passenger) of the radiator about three inches below the filler neck. It is a square module with an electrical connector. With engine cold, open radiator cap and physically check the coolant level. If OK then it is either a clogged or defective sensor. Sometimes air in the cooling system can cause it so all you need to do is bleed the air out, if any. Good luck!

WOW thanks a bunch again., I guess i got my hands full for a while :)

Good god i think i'm screwed. Ok so here i am working on this as i could not take the heat no more and had to go get at least the ignition switch and harness deal. Ok well i'm stuck at the part of takign the dame ignition cylinder out. I have located the little freaking hole and stuck an allen in it but the cylinder will not come out.

What really has me scared at this point is the fact that if i turn the ignition back the key will not come out HELLLLPPPP!!!

Good god i think i'm screwed. Ok so here i am working on this as i could not take the heat no more and had to go get at least the ignition switch and harness deal. Ok well i'm stuck at the part of takign the dame ignition cylinder out. I have located the little freaking hole and stuck an allen in it but the cylinder will not come out.

What really has me scared at this point is the fact that if i turn the ignition back the key will not come out HELLLLPPPP!!!

Yeah, it can be pretty hairy changing one out if you'v never done it before. The key tumbler should pull out after doing the part with the allen wrench along with the upper half of the cover. The procedure has been used by a lot of GP owners. The key will not remove until you get the battery hooked back up. When power is lost the key release part will not work. If you are unsure about completing the work DIY you might consider taking it to a auto mechanic.

Ok cool the key not comign out was what was really freaking me out as i did not know if this had a silinoid that held it until it had power or not. Thnaks again i will keep trying just need to get some needle nose and i should be good.

Ok well i just changed the peace and must say that i will never do this again :-)

Well anyway i stil have one more problem. After putting everything back, the ignition key cylinder is very hard and the key stays allt he way on. I havent connected the negative yet as i dont think thisis the problem and i dont want to burn my starter now.

Any help please and thanks so much as i would have never done it without your help and the forums.

Ok ignore the last post. I got it resolved. Basicly there is a screw that holds the top plate done which is near the ignition. This screw was causing the covers to sqeeze the ignition.

Well thanks again all and now off to get some parts that i need since i can live now that i have air.

Thanks a bunch bnaylor3400 and i wil hollar at ya richtazz sometime next week.

Ok ignore the last post. I got it resolved. Basicly there is a screw that holds the top plate done which is near the ignition. This screw was causing the covers to sqeeze the ignition.

Well thanks again all and now off to get some parts that i need since i can live now that i have air.

Thanks a bunch bnaylor3400 and i wil hollar at ya richtazz sometime next week.

You're welcme.

I see you didn't give up. Good man and job well done. :bigthumb: