Just an overall peice of crap...

I picked up a 1997 Grand Prix GT back in May 2005. I liked it at first, but the first day I had it, the alternator went bad. I had to have it replaced the next day, which was free since I had just bought it.

After that, the float in the fuel tank went bad, showing me I had near a full tank, when I was actually EMPTY.

That was replaced, ($300...) but then the SES light came on, and won't go away. Its some emission purge failure code, basicly the same thing with putting the gas cap on tighter...but that won't fix it. I assume they broke it when they put the tank back up..

SO...aside from that, it seems that the power steering has had problems before, the line thats supposed to run to a cooler, and then back to the power steering tank is non existant. I had to run a little tube in a U shape to connect the two hoses.

Then, the motor mount went bad, and the CV fell apart, just fixed the CV to see the motor mount bad.

On top of that, sometimes when I turn on the blower, the automatic headlights turn off....thats safe... I can turn on the headlights manually, but still no blower. Sometimes I will hear a "click click click click" sound when I'm driving, and the headlights will flicker.

The water pump had to be replaced a few months after I got it, and the alternator replaced again, after the water pump went bad it shot coolant into the alternator. No biggie...

The window switch on the drivers side, for the drivers side, is non existant. It just decided one day its going to pop out, and not work anymore...thank god my window was rolled up when this happened. I can't roll it down...

The key wont come out anymore, unless I put a pen in the hole under the steering wheel. This came up out of nowhere too.

This car is just a peice of crap, it runs a little weird, and is just falling apart all over. The seat back decided to just fall off one day when I was taking off from a stop light, I finally managed to fix this, the bolt on the right side of the seat worked its way out.

*groans* this car is just one pain after another...

Any ideas on how to fix the problems at hand? Preferrably inexpensive, and easy to do...

I like Pontiacs, and Grand Prix's, I really hope to have a GTX someday, but the way this ones going, I doubt I will get another Grand Prix. :frown:

with a little abuse and no preventive maintenance this could happen to any car.
If your looking for help your going about it the wrong way and if looking to trash GPs your in the wrong forum.

Wow, that is quite a laundry list. How many miles were on it when you got it?

Sounds like the prior owner(s) either abused it or failed to perform proper maintenance on it.

with a little abuse and no preventive maintenance this could happen to any car.
If your looking for help your going about it the wrong way and if looking to trash GPs your in the wrong forum.

I'm not looking to trash GPs, way to go jumping to conclusions. *gives you a big gold star*

I was calling MY GP a peice of crap, I hear that 99 and above they fixed the crap that went wrong.

Wow, that is quite a laundry list. How many miles were on it when you got it?

Sounds like the prior owner(s) either abused it or failed to perform proper maintenance on it.

It had 126,000, now it has 146,000...so about 20,000 miles since. Mostly highway though, lots of running between towns.

I'm replacing the motor mount right now actually...just taking a break to check up on this post.

Heres the info

2 Door
Grand Prix GT
3800 Non Supercharged SII
146,000 Miles

Any other info I can get you don't be afraid to ask.

It had 126,000, now it has 146,000...so about 20,000 miles since. Mostly highway though, lots of running between towns.

I'm replacing the motor mount right now actually...just taking a break to check up on this post.

Heres the info

2 Door
Grand Prix GT
3800 Non Supercharged SII
146,000 Miles

Any other info I can get you don't be afraid to ask.

Well, you've come to the right place for help. Can't promise we can help you fix all the problems but with all the expertise here maybe you'll come out ahead. 146K is a lot of miles but I've seen GPs with much higher and running lke champs.

On a few problems here are some suggestions:

If you have the evaporative emissions odb-ii DTC error code post it and we can go from there. I see the fuel pump was changed out so the evap. codes could be related to that work.

The HVAC blower and headlight problem can be troubleshot. In a worse case scenario it could be the ignition switch and harness assembly but checks can be run with a multimeter.

The power window problem sounds fixable. Normally it is either the switch or window motor and regulator assembly.

The key stuck problem sounds like a BTSI problem. The ignition key release solenoid is not getting the 12v from the shifter assembly. This a common problem with GPs because those parts get high usage.

If there is anything else you can tell us about your problems let us know.

Well, you've come to the right place for help. Can't promise we can help you fix all the problems but with all the expertise here maybe you'll come out ahead. 146K is a lot of miles but I've seen GPs with much higher and running lke champs.

Sweet :D

On a few problems here are some suggestions:

If you have the evaporative emissions odb-ii DTC error code post it and we can go from there. I see the fuel pump was changed out so the evap. codes could be related to that work.

I'll get that error code for you asap.

The HVAC blower and headlight problem can be troubleshot. In a worse case scenario it could be the ignition switch and harness assembly but checks can be run with a multimeter.

Where would this harness be? And how would I go about checking it with a multimeter? I have one...but I don't know where to start.

The power window problem sounds fixable. Normally it is either the switch or window motor and regulator assembly.

Yeah, its just a pain, the new switch is $90 :( if anybody can find it cheeper, cookies for them.

The key stuck problem sounds like a BTSI problem. The ignition key release solenoid is not getting the 12v from the shifter assembly. This a common problem with GPs because those parts get high usage.

Again, where could I check into this? Would it be tearing into very deep?

If there is anything else you can tell us about your problems let us know.

Thanks :)

I just fixed the motor mount, but I found that the bracket that sits on the motor mount looks bent. It still has a little bit of a lean to it, but its not as bad as it used to be. The clunking is gone, and it doesnt have a drag anymore like it used to.

It seems to have a lot more power then before. It even coasts better :D I coasted it all the way down the street once, about 2 blocks, and then into the driveway of the carwash, around the building and into the bay, and some of it was a little up hill. I loved the car when I very first got it.

I'm in no way bashing Grand Prix's, in fact I have defended them to a lot of my friends, I just wish this one was a little better then it is.

I saw a GTX sitting at the junk yard in town, but I doubt I'll have enough for it....the kid all ready put LOTS of money into it with performance parts, so half of the work is all ready done. :iceslolan

I got a driver's side power window switch at the dealer for about $65, but he did give a slight discount. They are much higher at the auto parts stores.

As far as the window, I believe the window switch assembly is a fairly commonly replaced item. Mine went bad and I noticed this because it would go down, stop and then start going down again. It would do the same going back up. One day smoke started rolling out of the switch when I was pressing on it to roll the window up.

If you watch E-Bay you can come across the window switch assembly fairly often and for a resonable rate.

As far as the SES light for the purge canister, take a look and make sure they hooked up the hoses that go to the purge canister located in the driver's side of the rear fender wheel. You can see it if you crawl under the car on the back side. Also, make sure all the connections are hooked up properly at the fuel pump. Pull out the carpet in the trunk and you'll see a plate at the front side of the trunk held down with speed nuts. Take off that plate and you'll see the pump and the four connections at the top.

As far as the window, I believe the window switch assembly is a fairly commonly replaced item. Mine went bad and I noticed this because it would go down, stop and then start going down again. It would do the same going back up. One day smoke started rolling out of the switch when I was pressing on it to roll the window up.

If you watch E-Bay you can come across the window switch assembly fairly often and for a resonable rate.

As far as the SES light for the purge canister, take a look and make sure they hooked up the hoses that go to the purge canister located in the driver's side of the rear fender wheel. You can see it if you crawl under the car on the back side. Also, make sure all the connections are hooked up properly at the fuel pump. Pull out the carpet in the trunk and you'll see a plate at the front side of the trunk held down with speed nuts. Take off that plate and you'll see the pump and the four connections at the top.

Sweet sexy muffins! I'll look into that ASAP, as soon as daylight hits that is. I hate that SES light with a passion.


As for the window switch, yeah, I'll just have to look around a bit, I might be able to get a deal through a few people.

I'll get that error code for you asap.

That would help otherwise it is just a guess.

Where would this harness be? And how would I go about checking it with a multimeter? I have one...but I don't know where to start.

The ignition switch and harness is located in the steering column. It mates up to the key tumbler and has cams that move and allows electrical contacts to pass voltages to start the engine and power accessories, etc. or turn things off. Over the years the contacts carbon up causing a voltage drop or short. The effect being seen at the blower motor, headlight problems, DRL problems, DIC, cruise control. Of course, you may not have all of the above. See pic below:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/switch_igntion.gif

Again, where could I check into this? Would it be tearing into very deep?

For BTSI problems normally you'll need the GP wiring diagrams but some us have them and can tell you where to check voltages.

Normally the problem is the shift interlock solenoid which is actually part of the shifter assembly. To get to it you have to get into the console. The shifter is expensive from the dealer and the solenoid is not avaialble separately. Most people go to a boneyard to get the part.

So is what I'm looking at, basicly the ignition?

Not the end thats a plug, but the other end, is that...where my key goes in? :screwy:

These new cars have me all confused >_>;

I was also looking around to see where I could get a diagnostic computer....possibly a cable to run from the car to a laptop with a diagnostic program on it...

I'll keep searching, unless you have an idea where to get one?

Thanks so much for all the help :D my faith in my pontiac keeps growing and growing.

So is what I'm looking at, basicly the ignition?

Not the end thats a plug, but the other end, is that...where my key goes in? :screwy:

These new cars have me all confused >_>;

I was also looking around to see where I could get a diagnostic computer....possibly a cable to run from the car to a laptop with a diagnostic program on it...

I'll keep searching, unless you have an idea where to get one?

Thanks so much for all the help :D my faith in my pontiac keeps growing and growing.

Not a problem and you are welcome.

The ignition switch and harness is all one piece. The cams and electrical contacts are in the small square black module. The key tumbler interlocks with it but is a separate part. The ignition switch is dealer only and runs around $100 ball park figure. I have a DIY procedure for replacement.

For diagnostics I use the Autotap program running on a Dell laptop and have a hand held odb-ii scanner (Actron CP9145) as a back up.

The key sticking could also be from something being spilled into the console and mucking up the BTSI solenoid. Since the cupholders are right there, it's a fairly common problem. The CV axle and motor mount are related. The mount allowed the motot/trans to move around and bound up the axle, so even though they are different parts, they are the same issue. As with any first model year of a new body style, there were a few more gremlins in 97's than the rest. By 99, they fixed most the issues. With all the federaly mandated safety equipment nowadays, vehicle electrical systems are taxed to the max. Id rather have my key stick and lights flicker than my car catch on fire like most Fords do. We'll do our best to help you through the repairs, and I can get you a deal on the parts if you wish. I work at a Delco distributor in Flint, MI. One more thing, wylie is a great guy, he must have posted before he had his morning coffee. He saw you attacking our beloved GP's, and was a little harsh. But if you re-read your original post, I'm sure you can see how he came to that conclusion.

I've had very few problems with my GP but I can see how someone could be discourged with a car with so many seemingly unnecessary issues. We all accept the regular maintainance problems but some of them can be unworldly, hellish even.
I use the software and connector from Alex Peper at www.obd-2.com. I got the double combo as one of my family members owns a non GM vehicle. I still haven't learned how to do a lot of the things with it, but I have managed to learn how to do the balancing rates on the injectors on my Duramax. I also bought a 50 foot 9 pin m-f extension cord from another source cheaply that I can connect and get to a convenient spot. The obd connector cord is only about 6 feet and with it you almost have to sit in the car to do the scanning. I'd certainly recommend an ext. if you think you will use it very much.

The key sticking could also be from something being spilled into the console and mucking up the BTSI solenoid. Since the cupholders are right there, it's a fairly common problem. The CV axle and motor mount are related. The mount allowed the motot/trans to move around and bound up the axle, so even though they are different parts, they are the same issue. As with any first model year of a new body style, there were a few more gremlins in 97's than the rest. By 99, they fixed most the issues. With all the federaly mandated safety equipment nowadays, vehicle electrical systems are taxed to the max. Id rather have my key stick and lights flicker than my car catch on fire like most Fords do. We'll do our best to help you through the repairs, and I can get you a deal on the parts if you wish. I work at a Delco distributor in Flint, MI. One more thing, wylie is a great guy, he must have posted before he had his morning coffee. He saw you attacking our beloved GP's, and was a little harsh. But if you re-read your original post, I'm sure you can see how he came to that conclusion.

I just wasnt expecting that as the first reply to this thread, it does sound like I'm bashing GP's, but trust me, I have lived with this peice of crap since May, everything just falling apart, from an awesome car, to a peice of crap. Ive seen my neighbors GP do the exact same things, so there are some design flaws in the early year new body style, but I know that 99's and above are damn sexy.

I could really use that window switch, if you could hit me up in a PM and help me out with that, it would be awesome.

Good morning, OK lets try this again after coffee, my original response was more to the thread name "just an OVERALL piece of crap"
Being on a GP forum and using the words "overall and crap" I just thought was a little inappropriate.
I can understand Marantz's frustration though.

Good morning, OK lets try this again after coffee, my original response was more to the thread name "just an OVERALL piece of crap"
Being on a GP forum and using the words "overall and crap" I just thought was a little inappropriate.
I can understand Marantz's frustration though.

We understand Wylie. The caption did stick out like a sore thumb. Everyone is entitled to an opinion in response and blow off a little steam as long as no harm is done.

I think for anyone that just bought this car to go through the problems Marantz is going through would think the thing is an overall piece of crap.

However, everyone around here knows that these are all known problems on GPs and relatively easy to fix. It just happens to be the majority of them are showing their head all at the same time.

Marantz, stick around here and within a few weeks you should have just about everything fixed on your car. A lot of these guys are very knowledgable and will walk you through your problems.

Good morning, OK lets try this again after coffee, my original response was more to the thread name "just an OVERALL piece of crap"
Being on a GP forum and using the words "overall and crap" I just thought was a little inappropriate.
I can understand Marantz's frustration though.

No hard feelings, I love GP's, in fact, I wanted one REAL bad, I was just super super super dissapointed in the quality of this one.

I drove it around today, it just seems a lot more healthy.

I'll be giving it an oil change here soon, it needs one, question...how do I reset the change oil soon light? That wasnt a code...

To reset the oil life monitor light, turn the ignition key to the position just before the crank position and mash the accelerator pedal to the floor three times within 5 seconds and wait for the light to flash and clear. Then you're all set. Sounds kinda like Dorothy clicking her heels together 3 times and saying "there's no place like home."

No problem and welcome to the forum.
As you can see theres allot of great people here always willing to help and best of luck with your issues.
I had a 95 with over 500,000 k on it and now have a 99 with 200,000 k and I run it hard and never had any major problems other than speeding tickets so when I saw your post I just thought WTF.

:cheers: See, all is better, just one big happy family again.

We've got some weather now eh richtazz:
I can't to get out of here after looking at those little smiles with their beers.
My fridge is calling.

To reset the oil life monitor light, turn the ignition key to the position just before the crank position and mash the accelerator pedal to the floor three times within 5 seconds and wait for the light to flash and clear. Then you're all set. Sounds kinda like Dorothy clicking her heels together 3 times and saying "there's no place like home."



Wow....sounds like starting an old car or something....:screwy: I wonder who thought that one up?