2000 Rodeo Tranny Filter Change

I have a 2000 Rodeo I bought with 100K miles on it (the kind with no dipstick for the transmission). I don't know anything about the vehicle's history.

I would like to check the transmission fluid and change the filter (it seems to have a slight drip). The Haynes manual says to pick up a temperature sensor gauge from the dealer to do this or you could cause SERIOUS DAMAGE to the transmission. I contacted 2 dealers and they have never heard of such a thing.

I usually just go on and do about any and everything to my vehicles myself, but I'm a little worried about doing this. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to come by this part or how I should go about checking and / or changing the transmission fluid and filter.

Any additional tips and tricks would be appreciated as well.

Thanks.

Don't worry about the temperature sensor gauge. People have been doing the fluid/filter change on this transmission forever and I've never heard of anyone using the temp gauge tool.

You should climb under the vehicle and check for clearance to get the pan out. On some vehicles, like my 1st gen rodeo, the exhaust is in the way and makes it a fairly difficult job.

Yes, don't bother with the temp stick. All you have to do to verify proper ATF level is run the truck to normal op temps, park it on a level surface & leave it idling in park or neutral. Pull the higher plug on the main pan & ATF should dribble out. That means you are full. You will have a crossmember in the way of one row of pan bolts on the 1998+. Some have been able to work a wrench in there anyway. Get a cheap garden sprayer to add ATF back into the pan. This 'design' is a fargin nightmare, but it is workable.:banghead:

Joel

If you have a leak watch it. These tranny's don't like low or dirty fluid. The common place for it to leak is from the accumulator piston cover (see the faq's for photos; and see the faq's too for a free downloadable manual).

anybody have an idea what it would cost to get the tranny pan dropped and the filter changed?

I mentioned this a year ago, but I'll mention it again, my Isuzu dealer says there is no serviceable filter in the tranny. I know this is not true, so I'll have to find a good tranny shop.


marc

Diy!!!

I am tempted to try it, but I am scared of AT's. I don't know if the pan removal is within my ability.

How difficult of a job is it to drop the pan and replace the tranny filter and then replace the pan and fill it back up?

marc

also, how messy of a job is it?

marc

I have the 4x2 and found it easy. The refill can be a little messy, especially when you've topped it off and the excess spills out, but I lose less and less each time. I used to be a little timid about ATs, too, but as long as you take your time the first time you'll get it right. You probably stand a better chance of getting it done right yourself.

Thanks for all the helpful info.

I have just a couple more questions ...

1) I drain the fluid and drop the pan, change the filter and replace the pan. At this point the vehicle (as well as the new fluid) is cold, so how do I know how much fluid to put back in before I can get the vehicle back up to operating temperature again so I can check the fluid level? Or should I just fill it up to level with the overflow plug and then run it for a short time to get it up to operating temperature before I recheck the fluid level, and either add or let the excess drain out?

2) I have read a couple of posts that warned about the dangers of flushing if the fluid was old or had not been changed in a while. Since I don't know the history, I'm leaning to just changing the filter and some fluid rather than flushing, but how much fluid should I change? Should it be all the fluid that will drain out of the pan, or should I put a little of the old fluid back in?

Also, rodeo02, What kind of "cheap garden sprayer" are you speaking of? The thing I immediately think of is a nozzle that goes on the end of a water hose, but surely that isn't what you're talking about.

By the way, thanks again.

When refilling, refill as much as you can before starting the engine. When it starts to overflow, turn the engine on and let it warm up. To top off, you pump the fluid in with the engine running in neutral. I have one of my kids run it through the gears a couple of times, too. With the emergency brake firmly set. If you fill it cold to overflowing, you'll have plenty of fluid in the tranny to avoid damaging it. Besides, you're probably changing, at most, half the fluid.

I think he's talking about a spray bottle like an empty windex bottle. I use a hand pump to fill it up. It screws onto the top of a quart bottle. I have to refill the quart container a couple of times.

Don't use any old fluid. I'd run it a couple of days and swap 4 more qts. out...

is there a gasket for the pan or can you use RTV sealant?

Also, the garden sprayer he is talking about looks like this I believe. At least I think this is the one he is referring to.
http://img.epinions.com/images/opti/0e/8e/hmgdLawn_and_GardenSprayersAllCraftsman_2_gallon_G arden_Sprayer_1518-resized200.jpg

Ahh...I missed the garden part. I just used the gasket without gasket maker.

That's it Marc! That's the exact type of garden sprayer I was referring to. Marc, I've had continental transmission (Orchard Park Rd in W.Seneca) do pan drops and filter changes for me in the past. They used to be super cheap like $49, but it was like 5yrs ago when I went there last. Last one they did for me was on the 4L60E on my 1998 Chevy K1500. Basically you made an appt. They road test, do the pan drop/filter change, top the ATF back up, road test again & done. Took about 30min IIRC.
Joel

That's it Marc! That's the exact type of garden sprayer I was referring to. Marc, I've had continental transmission (Orchard Park Rd in W.Seneca) do pan drops and filter changes for me in the past. They used to be super cheap like $49, but it was like 5yrs ago when I went there last. Last one they did for me was on the 4L60E on my 1998 Chevy K1500. Basically you made an appt. They road test, do the pan drop/filter change, top the ATF back up, road test again & done. Took about 30min IIRC.
Joel


Thanks for the info Joel. I was thinking of going to continental, there is one down the street from me (Hertel Ave in Buffalo). I am tempted to do this myself, what's the worst that can happen, lol. If there is nothing in the way, I may give it a shot. I am not sure yet. I don't see how it can only be $50 anymore. If I had to guess, I'd say more it'd be over $100, at least.

I am going to give it a look at this weekend. I've got some things planned. I need to finally change the transfer case fluid. I want to do the rear diff again, this time I am going to remove the cover and look inside. I am going to give the rear brakes a shot. I am also going to get a look at a few drops of ATF, see what it looks like. If it looks clean, I may do it myself. I also need to remove one O2 sensor as I never put antiseize on it and I want to do that.

My only fear with the tranny pan is not being able to figure out the filter and making a mess. Maybe there are other fears with it, but those are the big two.

Where should I order the filter from?

marc

..Where should I order the filter from?

marc


You could get it from St.Charles. I'd prolly just do NAPA, Carquest or AutoZone for a 4L30E filter and gasket kit. Just make sure it's not a cork gasket. Rubber (or whatever it is) are longer lasting. Before you get any parts for the trans, make sure you can get a wrench or socket on EVERY bolt to release the pan. You may need to drop the x-member to remove the pan. I have heard of people being able to fenagle the pan around the x-member on the 1998+. Dunno for sure.

Joel

I did this job last year.My is '97 3.2l 108k now. I got filter kit from Advance Auto King-Pro brand with Fel-Pro rubber gasket for $20. I lost head of one bolt what hold cross member to a frame. Old gasket was stuck to trans body and was real B*** to remove. I used gasket remover spray and removed little peaces at a time. My main concern was not gauge the surface of tran body and not leave any peaces of gasket inside trany and not brake any wire inside trans. I have no problem to unscrew 16 pan bolts. I have not found anything inside filter or a lot of greet on botton of the pan. I feel if you do drain and fill every 15K you can wait for filter change to 100K.

My mechanic told me he'll do it for $40 if I bring him the filter. Maybe I should give him a $10 tip? :p