dude...LT1...ugh

Ok so tonight I decided to go check out a car meet. It was mainly a bunch of honda civics, Sti's, Srt4's, mustangs, and one other camaro(ls1) besides my Lt1. So anywho, after seeing those cars, (meet was in Fredericksburg, VA, if any of y'all on here live in that area) and then a buddy of mine and his buddy went out to race. My friend has a '05 Focus hatch, and his buddy has maybe an 99-01 Olds Alero. Both 4 bangers. So anywho, after they had a go from a dig, i offered to race them in my camaro. So my buddy, the focus driver didn't want to but instead he'd flag us off. So that left me racing the Alero. We agreed that he'd get about a 20 foot head start. So after I let him go I punched the gas, shifted to second, third, fourth, and fifth...Never once did I catch up to him and win. The second time we raced (out of three) I missed second (let off the clutch too soon :banghead: ) - obvious win for him. Then I decided, "Eff this, we're going from a straight dig". So we lined up, went from a dig, and he held onto me through third gear then I pulled on him probably by 1.5 car lengths. Why oh why, did I get beat, by an Auto-Four cylinder-four-door alero? I thought Lt1's were torque beasts. Unless I don't know how to drive? I didn't ever redline, because I didn't want to run the engine too hard. Shouldn't I have first caught up to him and then passed him the first race? I mean COME ON!!:disappoin So anywho...that's my story from tonight.

P.s. If any of y'all know how to get the most out of my engine without spray please let me know. How much can i expect to get from maxing out the car? without having to forge the internals? I'm gonna do a full rebuild and tranny rebuild with a stage 2 or 3 clutch when I get the cash. Also put in a 12 bolt rearend. I know about the I/H/E, which will get done when the cash comes..but if i want a more agressive cam for top end do i need to PCM tune it? Or is that on some, but not all? I'm just pissed that I lost so badly to a four-cylinder sedan.:shakehead

No offense but you sound like a pretty inexperinced driver. I am sure that played a major role cause ever a hurting LT1 with 2.73's would school those cars you mentioned.

newer STIs and srt-4s will be hard to beat if the other driver knows what theyre doing regardless of what you do(it is definately possible though..although I've never raced an STI). The Civics, focuses, and aleros should be easily tooled unless they have thousands upon thousands into performance stuff. I raced an alero with an experienced driver and "$2000 under the hood" as he quoted, and it was still a joke of a race.

The Alero has an Ecotec.
IF heavily modded, it could be quick.

That's actually comforting. It was my second race in the car...the other was against my buddies '94 RS...beat him just fine. So it was definitely driver error :banghead: . That's good to know. Means LT1's are quick (like you said STi's and Srt4's are even beatable). Around here a lot of people are afraid of "ellis juans". The guy I met last night had 20k into his car pushing 450+RWHP and 530+ RWTQ. The minute we showed up, people were like, nah you don't wanna mess with that car. But thanks, a little know-how and some practice and I should be able to run with and beat Stang GT's, correct, assuming they're completely stock, yes?

Around here a lot of people are afraid of "ellis juans". The guy I met last night had 20k into his car pushing 450+RWHP and 530+ RWTQ.
Dude wasted a decent amount of money somewhere. :banghead:

That's just what they said. It's possible they could've meant, including the car itself. It was an SLP car, running all SLP - intake to catback. Cam, headers, and on the bottle, 125 shot I think. It sounded real nice and he only runs from a dig with slicks.

Makes much more sense now.
SLP parts only would explain why the power numbers are low and the cost was high. :lol:

those damn skittles are fun to play with but a stock lt1 can get hurt messing with a moded one. i lost to one last weekend on the highway but my tranny was broke. those wrx cars are a good race, but if u want a nice run find u an evo to race. u should be able to beat all these cars but one mistake will put u looking at tail lights. what kind of track times are u running?

Yeah...I haven't been to the track around here...I haven't really started the "street racing circuit" life yet...I'm waiting for income. Once I get my car hooked up the way I want then I'll run it at the track, and perhaps a few street races...but mainly tracks.

you said you were going to do a full rebuild? What do you mean by that? like pull the motor and rebuild or just add alot of performance? Because if you pull the motor and rebuild, there is ALOT of stuff you can put in that motor while it is apart.

heck yeah, if u have the loot to do that i would

Yes sir, I'm going to pull the motor and break it down and replace the necessary parts. Port the head bore out the cylinders (I heard you can put concrete in the motor to make it stronger, yay or nay?), replace the cam, push rods, so just things like that. The engine has already been rebuilt at 125k but I would like it done again A: so I know it's been done properly and B: so I can do the upgrades. I'm probably going to buy all the things I can buy before I pull and rebuilt it.

WTF, concreat???? who told you that? How are the pistons going to move with concreate? And i would do a 383 stroker with it. bore .30 and get the 383 kit. Along with header and all of the other good little upgrades.

i dont think the concrete idea is too bright...

Doesn't the 383 kit leave the bore stock and increase stroke?

Either way...good luck. I know what kinda work that involves. I finally got my LSx 402 running in my Trans Am.

haha yeah not in the pistons themselves he didn't really get into specifics, I was wondering the same thing. But maybe bore out some smaller spaces in the stock block, and then fill it with concrete? And I was thinking the same thing, bore it out to a 383 and stroke it...I'm trying to get as close to 500 as possible without having to resort to the bottle. I want to be able be all motor.

Yeah, I thought the 383 kit left the bore the same in the 350, it just changed the stroke to make it a 383 CID engine...

wouldnt concrete under extreme heat bust? i dunno

The concrete idea is NOT smart, if i worked it probably would have already been used in an engine. All it would be is extra weight, whoever told you that is either: really stupid, full of shit, or F-ing nuts...

Yeah you're all probably right, I was just wondering because he works as a mechanic and he's done all his own car engine overhauls and things like that. That's just one idea he said. I wasn't going to do it because it sounded like more trouble then it was worth.

ops sorry about the bore thing, but ya do the 383 swap and get some forged pistons incase you want the bottle

I thought the LT1 pistons were already forged? or are those just the crankshaft and pushrods? But, nah I'm not really into the bottle...but I might go forced induction once the cash comes either vortec, ati, or I'm even starting to like the sound of the STS. not sure which i'll try to save bank for.

Yeah you're all probably right, I was just wondering because he works as a mechanic and he's done all his own car engine overhauls and things like that. That's just one idea he said. I wasn't going to do it because it sounded like more trouble then it was worth.

Where does this guy work as a mechanic so I can try to avoid ever having him look at my car, drive by my car, or even think about my car.

Where does this guy work as a mechanic so I can try to avoid ever having him look at my car, drive by my car, or even think about my car.

I don't think you have to worry lol he works for a honda dealership :evillol:

I don't think you have to worry lol he works for a honda dealership :evillol:

OH!, That explains why he said put concrete in the engine. Those import boys are always trying to find a replacement for displacement... :grinno:

OH!, That explains why he said put concrete in the engine. Those import boys are always trying to find a replacement for displacement... :grinno:

weird thing is, though, he's the one in the my opening story who has the Z28 with 450+RWHP...so that's why I was thinking he might know what he was talking about. But I guess...not?

He might know most of what he is talking about with cars, but his ideas need a little work...

i think if your going to tear the motor down you should keep in mind what you are going to do to the top of the motor... if you think ahead... buy the right cam, right pistons and set it up for a supercharger or maybe a big shot of NO i think youll get the best results. and try not to concentrate mostly on HP get some forged pistons and build a solid motor. if you build the internals right youll have a very solid base to work on top of-
I also would say do not buy cheap internal parts 1) because when they break they tend to destroy your engine 2) even if it the block or the heads survive its gonna take a lot of time and money to fix it and then your just back at square one

go with the 383 kit if your aiming to be secret about it but i think the supercharger is the the best way to get a solid car that will put out plenty of HP.

i know money issues are always tight but if i were you i would make sure you buy what you need for the enitire build at one time. when your goin that far on your car you need to put months of research behind it and get whats right not whats rumor... puls it gives you some time to save a bunch of cash

ive heard the myth about the concrete... dont now if its true but you dont put concrete in the cylinders.... ive heard that you can fill the coolent passageways on some blocks to make them stronger. but i dont know just dont do it... you could build an awesome motor without that

Yeah, I thought the 383 kit left the bore the same in the 350, it just changed the stroke to make it a 383 CID engine...

True you can still put a stroker in a motor bored over the 383 is basicly just a new crank

the concreate thing in the coolent ways, but it gets REALY hot then cold all the time it would crack and the you have loose concreate around in there.

to stroke a 350 to a 383 you change the stroke from 3.48 to 3.75

isnt a 383 also a 4.030 bore?

I have a 4.030 and its actually 389 cubes I believe. The reason they call it a stroker kit is cause thats what your doing increasing stroke. Most people when they rebuild or stroke go .03 or .06 over but its not always the case.

Jegs part # 772-860212
"cement based material provides maximum strength,vibration dampening and heat dissipation required in high performance engines extends cylinder wall life by preventing cracked wall and by allowing wall to wear truer honing is minimized during rebuilds remains stable at all operating temperatured and does not soften when exposed to high heat will not erode under water non toxic" jegs also sells another similiar product...i know next to nothing about it though..i wouldnt do it though

damn about every one on on here has a lt1 stroked to a 383 or a fast 350 and higher, and i am stuck here with my slow stock 305 tbi till after my paint job, god i hate savin all this money for paint.

I have a 4.030 and its actually 389 cubes I believe. The reason they call it a stroker kit is cause thats what your doing increasing stroke. Most people when they rebuild or stroke go .03 or .06 over but its not always the case.
http://www.mortec.com/borstrok.htm
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor, 5.7" rod)
383 = 4.030" x 3.75" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank

damn about every one on on here has a lt1 stroked to a 383 or a fast 350 and higher, and i am stuck here with my slow stock 305 tbi till after my paint job, god i hate savin all this money for paint.
ha! i own a body shop....i get my cars painted for....you guessed it...FREE!

WHAT!!!! you should have told me this eariler, i would have drove down there and had you paint it. I would have brong my mom also, she would pay you off,lol

i don't paint....we just own the body shop....i couldnt paint if i had to.....i told you guys we owned it...hence me living on "body shop road"

oh..i understand that..i think im gonna try and teach myself to paint...i'll probably waste countless $$$ on paint though

could you hook us up some deals?

my papaw was the best around....he was great, owned his own business for over 40 years....he died in 02 and people still come up here asking for HIM to paint their cars

when i was looking for a t/a one of the guys repainted his hood/fender from what he learned in some shop class,, looked like SHIIIT. i also saw a kid who tried using some sort of car spray on his blue 3kgt and it also looked like a POS. based on what i've seen i would never try repainting my car by myself. get it done professionally IMHO.

when business was slow and people couldnt afford to pay to have my papaw paint their cars he would let them use his equipment and stuff if they supplied all the parts and paints for a very small fee...some turned out okay, most didnt

http://www.mortec.com/borstrok.htm
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor, 5.7" rod)
383 = 4.030" x 3.75" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank
Yeah, thats right. I was thinking if I went with .060 over. In which case it would be 388 and change in which most people round up. If you leave the standard bore and stoke its 370 something.

Dude,

you are going to waste alot of money

Do all of the cheap free mods first ....

Look online and you will find a bunch of stuff telling you how to get more power for your money'

You should modify your intake and filter (a ram air mod for about $50 bucks can be found if you search for it) then do your exhaust (coated headers, high flow cats, mandrel bent pipes, high flow muffler) then do your rear end (3.73 or 4.11 gears) then add a new coil and optispark cap and rotor and 1.6:1 rockers and springs then re-program your PCM (Bryan Heryer at "PCM for Less" can get 15 to 20 hp out of a bone stock, unmodded LT1) then install airbags to your rear suspension for a better launch. If that all still isn't enough THEN start doing your motor.

Also....with entry fees being so cheap for "run what ya brung" type events at the local race tracks (such as Summerduck, Colonial Beach and Warrenton where you can race for something like $20 bucks and you get an "official" time slip showing how you did)...if you seriously THINK about it.....street racing is kinda stupid, especially when you consider that alot of street racers don't have alot of experience to deal with emergencys and there is no safety crew there to help out if someone wrecks.


Ok so tonight I decided to go check out a car meet. It was mainly a bunch of honda civics, Sti's, Srt4's, mustangs, and one other camaro(ls1) besides my Lt1. So anywho, after seeing those cars, (meet was in Fredericksburg, VA, if any of y'all on here live in that area) and then a buddy of mine and his buddy went out to race. My friend has a '05 Focus hatch, and his buddy has maybe an 99-01 Olds Alero. Both 4 bangers. So anywho, after they had a go from a dig, i offered to race them in my camaro. So my buddy, the focus driver didn't want to but instead he'd flag us off. So that left me racing the Alero. We agreed that he'd get about a 20 foot head start. So after I let him go I punched the gas, shifted to second, third, fourth, and fifth...Never once did I catch up to him and win. The second time we raced (out of three) I missed second (let off the clutch too soon :banghead: ) - obvious win for him. Then I decided, "Eff this, we're going from a straight dig". So we lined up, went from a dig, and he held onto me through third gear then I pulled on him probably by 1.5 car lengths. Why oh why, did I get beat, by an Auto-Four cylinder-four-door alero? I thought Lt1's were torque beasts. Unless I don't know how to drive? I didn't ever redline, because I didn't want to run the engine too hard. Shouldn't I have first caught up to him and then passed him the first race? I mean COME ON!!:disappoin So anywho...that's my story from tonight.

P.s. If any of y'all know how to get the most out of my engine without spray please let me know. How much can i expect to get from maxing out the car? without having to forge the internals? I'm gonna do a full rebuild and tranny rebuild with a stage 2 or 3 clutch when I get the cash. Also put in a 12 bolt rearend. I know about the I/H/E, which will get done when the cash comes..but if i want a more agressive cam for top end do i need to PCM tune it? Or is that on some, but not all? I'm just pissed that I lost so badly to a four-cylinder sedan.:shakehead