92 lumina 3.1 problems

First off it is sputtering from the get go. It was leaking from the cat. and the cat was really shaking alot in drive if i put it in N it wouldn't shake as bad. But, yesterday it was doing it really bad no matter what gear I was in. I thought maybe it was the cat so I took it off to test it but it is still doing it, don't know if the muffler is clogged also now or an entirely different direction then I am going. It doesn't have power to go up hill very well now either. It backfired once and it drove fine for a few miles and it is back to acting like this.

Also, on an entire different problem.. The idiot like for the coolant keeps coming on sometimes it stays on for the duration of having it on, other times it comes on and off like a switch. I always check it to make sure I have plenty of fluid in it everytime,In the resevoir and the radiator.

Also, whenever I get over 50 and apply the brakes the service engine light would come on. I can drive under 50 all day long and apply the brakes and it won't come on.

How long since you've tuned it up? IF it's been a while, do so. If it had a recent tune-up, check fuel pressure at the rail with a pressure guage. It should read 31-34psi, key on/engine off. Start the car, pressure should drop about 3psi. unhook vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator with car still running and vacuum should spike back up original reading. if below 31-34 psi engine off, pump is bad. If pressure doesn't change when vacuum removed, fuel pressure regulator is faulty. Coolant level sensor may be mucked up with sludge if coolant is full when light comes on. The check engine light may be indicating a bad torque converter lock-up switch. Have the car scanned to see why the light is coming on. Many Auto parts retail chains now scan vehicles for free if the CEL is on. Post the result here.

Well, I went ahead and changed plugs and wires. It doesn't do it right away, it runs about 3-4 blocks and starts to spit and sputter bad again. Seems like it is fine for the first start of the day and then spits and sputters.

Guess work here, like Rich said get it scanned then post back the codes for a better idea of what's what. BTW, Autozone will not do obd1 cars.

what is obd1 cars?

Forget the last post figured it out. But, I did a self-diagnose with a paper clip and came up with a code 32 --The ECM opens each EGR control valve during deceleration and monitors the change in manifold vacuum. This code is set when the change in manifold vacuum is outside the normal range.--Tells me why the service engine light comes on but, doesn't tell me what my major problem is or does it? The spitting and sputtering.

Was the convertor burnt through where it was leaking? Injesting large amounts of unburned fuel will overheat them. You sure you don't have a dead coilpack and you're running on 4 cylinders? Sure sounds like it.

It was smoking out of it really bad and making alot of crackling noises when i was stopped so I thought the exhaust was my problem. How do I check if any of my coil packs are bad I was thinking that it might be them(someone said about them to me) but not sure how to check them.

Ok I got it. It was the middle coil pack that was bad.

Now they only thing that is happening my gas gauge is dropping faster then usual and a slit internal backfire(pop) something to that effect after my check engine light comes on and I push my gas petal done harder then usual. Guess that explains it right. No misfire though.