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99'sohc-loud tapping for 1 minute at start


micker
03-21-2006, 09:55 PM
This old car has been so good. We got 105,000 with only egr and tune-ups. Changed cam sensor o-ring few months ago. But it has slowly been getting this tapping sound at start up. now it is kind of loud but fades away after a minute or so. I'm going to do the timing belt & water pump thing in 2 weeks on vacation and was wondering if there is something I might do for the tapping. Thanks for the input.

das2123
03-21-2006, 10:12 PM
This old car has been so good. We got 105,000 with only egr and tune-ups. Changed cam sensor o-ring few months ago. But it has slowly been getting this tapping sound at start up. now it is kind of loud but fades away after a minute or so. I'm going to do the timing belt & water pump thing in 2 weeks on vacation and was wondering if there is something I might do for the tapping. Thanks for the input.The tapping could be your lifters. Check the oil level and fill if needed. It may be your engine showing its age.

Don't forget the tensioner pulley when you do the timing belt and water pump. Might as well change the rear main seal also.

neon_rt
03-22-2006, 10:36 AM
There is a one-way valve in the oil filter that keeps the oil from seeping back into the pan when you shut your engine off. If that valve is leaking then after a few hours of setting the oil will all be drained out of the passageways and it will take a few seconds after you start your engine to fill up the passages and get enough oil pressure to pump up the lifters. If this is the problem your are having you can.... change the oil filter. Some brands of oil filters are notorious for internally leaking, one brand I have had a lot of trouble with is...Fr@m.

micker
03-24-2006, 09:20 PM
There is a one-way valve in the oil filter that keeps the oil from seeping back into the pan when you shut your engine off. If that valve is leaking then after a few hours of setting the oil will all be drained out of the passageways and it will take a few seconds after you start your engine to fill up the passages and get enough oil pressure to pump up the lifters. If this is the problem your are having you can.... change the oil filter. Some brands of oil filters are notorious for internally leaking, one brand I have had a lot of trouble with is...Fr@m.
Fram is everywhere. So which brand is good . I'd like to try it next.

das2123
03-25-2006, 07:25 AM
Fram is everywhere. So which brand is good . I'd like to try it next.Mobil!

sheetmagnet
03-26-2006, 03:18 AM
I changed the oil in my new '04 at 1800 miles and put Mobil1 5w30 synthetic in it with a Fram filter... no problems.

Changed my oil at 6200 miles on the odometer and put Royal Purple 5w30 in it with a Fram tough-gaurd filter.

By the time my odometer read 8000 miles, the oil turned into what looked like black water and I got the same annoying 1-minute lifter slap on every other cold start.

I changed the oil and went back to Mobil1 5w30 synthetic, and a Fram filter.

At 15,000 miles, I changed the oil again with Mobil1 5w30 syn and used a Mobil1 filter this time. I have 21,000 miles on the car now, and the lifter slap hasn't gotten any worse on a cold start since I threw out the Royal Purple back at the 8000-mile mark.

Might not be the answer, but from my experience, I would trust the Mobil1 oil any day with a reliable filter that isn't a Fram.

micker
03-26-2006, 08:43 PM
thanks,
I'll try the mobil filter next. You think it be OK to change oil now? Been using reg. pensoil every 3000 all this time. Was always told not to swith oils on old cars. Is that just old nonsense?

sheetmagnet
03-26-2006, 09:30 PM
thanks,
I'll try the mobil filter next. You think it be OK to change oil now? Been using reg. pensoil every 3000 all this time. Was always told not to swith oils on old cars. Is that just old nonsense?

Hmm, true. Well it is a gamble. Honestly, if you switch to synthetic at this point especially with 100k+ miles on it, you do run the risk of spurting some leaks. If you've made it this far on conventional oil, then you might just want to stick with it.

Remember, whether it is conventional or synthetic, the type of oil you use doesn't mean anything unless you have excellent filtration and filter longevity... so going with a K&N or Mobil1 filter will probably be your best bet.

alphalanos
03-26-2006, 09:34 PM
You might need a valve adjustment. I need to do this to my Civic too. I use only Mobil1 5/10w30 and a Mobil 1,K&N, or Bosch filter.

sheetmagnet
03-26-2006, 09:36 PM
You might need a valve adjustment. I need to do this to my Civic too. I use only Mobil1 5/10w30 and a Mobil 1,K&N, or Bosch filter.

Go back to the post screen and look a couple notches down at the oil & filter posting... there is some very interesting oil & filtering information on the 4th page and might shed some light on oil choices in the future. Guys posted some very helpful (and interesting) info on there.

das2123
03-27-2006, 10:40 AM
Hmm, true. Well it is a gamble. Honestly, if you switch to synthetic at this point especially with 100k+ miles on it, you do run the risk of spurting some leaks.If he has a small oil leak now, then switching to a synthetic would allow the oil to leak more. But if he has no oil leaks now, he will be fine!

neon_rt
03-27-2006, 01:16 PM
There is no adjustment you can do on the Valves, don't worry about that.
Civic's have adjustable valves? Sounds kind of retro to me.

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