heater

no matter what i put the control on, my blower only blows cold air, the a\c doesnt work either, the heater core is fine but the temperature doesnt change what could i do to make hot air come out?

What year and body style? Such as ES, LS,?? Does the temp. switch show changes in temp. in the readout window when you try to adjust the temp. Is your auto.temp. control on?

It could likely be that the switch or the control that you regulate your temp. with is bad, or the function selector [the one that goes from defrost to heat to vent to a/c, e.g.] won't perform the switching.

sorry guys, i have a 1991 premier es limited digital readout does show change in temperature, when i switch from floor to def, or from vent to something else it changes, when i turn the blower up and down it goes up and down, but when i change the temperature, the readout goes up to 90 and down to 60 the readout works, but the temperature does not change. the heater core is hooked up right and the car is getting up to temperature.

also, after i drive the car for a while it shows out, it starts surging in speed on its own a lil bit and smoking and stalling and sputtering. after i let it sit for about 20 minutes or so it will smooth back out a minute or two after restarting and run fine for about another 35 or 40 minutes, it also smells really bad when its doing this. im pretty sure the gas mileage is pretty bad too. ive checked and cleaned several things on the throttle body, cleaned the throttle body itself, checked vacuums and egr, pcv or whatever cleaned it, and i read a thing about 1991 premiers having a problem with the fuel pumps which will fuctuate the pressure causing misfire... should i replace the fuel pump?

K, I have to look through the manual [Chilton's] re the temp. deal, now I have some more info. Be patient, it will take me a day or so to see if the manual gives some direction.

Re the stalling, put some GOOD [such as Gumout concentrated] two bottles of injector cleaner into your gas tank, and fill 'er up. Run it, it may clear out the injectors and the internal sensor systems. Try that first prior to thinking fuel pump, ya don't wanna go there if ........well it's scary on these cars, lol. :banghead:

Oh, btw, Chilton's offers a manual for the Premier, yes they do!!!! It's listed as #20384, and titled "Chrysler Front wheel drive cars 6-cyl, 1988-95 repair manual". You may have to special order it from your parts store, or Chilton's. :bigthumb: . Motors has one, too, but they are next to impossible to find, and they are usually only in Libraries now, sigh, :frown:

ive put 7 bottles of cleaner through it on a quarter tank, mixture of different brands... no change in the way it runs. its very specific, it runs the way it should for about 35 miles and then messes up and if you let it sit for about 10 minutes it will fix it, if you dont it will only get worse and worse until the car wont go at all it will barely idle and even die sometimes.

also, what do you mean about 'you dont wanna go there if...' i mean, i know how to change a fuel pump, ive already seen that i will have to drop the tank to do so... ive done this kind of stuff all my life, im pretty sure the fuel pump is my problem

Re the tank, only that the fuel line fittings can be a bear to disconnect without a special quick-disconnect tool. And that the right rear wheel drum may be in the way of getting to some of the bolts. Ot may be possible the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel return line is boing on ya.

I don't see anything in Chilton's that gives some direction on the lack of heat. There is a vacuum [ might be electrical] system that opens the various venting off of the core area. It directs the air to the heater, defrost, vents, etc. If the air comes out from the selected function, but is cold, I'd think there is a blockage somewhere.

More than that, I really don't know. Autozone .com has a partial Chilton's listing for the Eagle, check them out, it a freebie.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=processEngine&Parameters=006

That puts you right at the start of the Chilton's for the Eagle, although I have an '89. You may want to surf the site a bit to get your 91 entered, since there are some small changes between the years, although I doubt any changes with the tank or heating system.

actually there was a pretty big difference in the tanks of a 89 and 91 in october of 1990 they switched the fuel pump(s) from two pumps on previous models and one pump after 1991... i cant find a fuel pressure regulator either, could it be made on the pump after 10\90?

Premier and Monaco
LINE FITTINGS

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relieve the fuel tank pressure.
http://www.autozone.com/images/upper_left.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/grey_line.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/upper_right.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifCAUTIONhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifResidual fuel system pressure will be released when the quick-connect fitting is disconnected. Place shop towels around the tube end to absorb the spilled fuel. Wear eye protection and extinguish all smoking devices or open flame. http://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/lower_left.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/grey_line.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/lower_right.gif
Squeeze the retainer tabs together and pull the quick-connect fitting apart. Note that the retainer tabs stay on the nipple.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d800c43b8.jpg (javascript:pop()
Fig. 7: Fuel delivery system-Premier and Monaco

To install:

Using a clean lint-free cloth, wipe the tube end (nipple) and retainer clean.
Apply a light film of clean SAE 30 weight engine oil to the tube end.
http://www.autozone.com/images/upper_left.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/grey_line.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/upper_right.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifWARNINGhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifDo not use any other lubricant. http://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/lower_left.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/grey_line.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/images/lower_right.gif
Push the quick-connect fitting over the fuel tube until the retainer seats and a click is heard.
If the quick-connect fitting is the type that has windows on the side, ensure that the locking ears on the retainer and the shoulder (stop bead) on the fuel tube are completely visible in the windows. Do not rely upon the audible click to confirm that a secure connection has been made. Pull back on the quick-connect fitting to further ensure that the connection is complete and the connector is locked in place.
Install the fuel tank filler cap.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the key to the ON position and inspect the system for fuel leaks.
FUEL RAIL/REGULATOR FITTINGS
Fuel tube Quick-Disconnect tool 6182 (or equivalent) can be used at the engine fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator to remove the quick-connect fitting and retainer as an assembly. The retainer will remain in the fitting in the correct position. To install the fuel tube, push it over the nipple until a click is heard. Pull back on the tube to ensure that the connector is locked in place.

http://www.autozone.com/images/grey_line.gif

:banghead: Chilton's doesn't say anything about the regulator not being/being on the '91's. It would be on the fuel return line, not internal in the tank, if the 91 has one, though.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0d/9d/88/0900823d800d9d88.jsp

This link takes U to the fuel tank remove.

thanks man but i changed my mind on the fuel pump, i found out my eet or electrical egr transducer a.k.a. egr vacuum solenoid is broken in half... egr was completely rerouted to itself and not operating at all

Ah, cool ya found the prob.

after fixing the electric egr transducer, the car runs better but still stalls under hard accelleration and every couple of minutes or so the car completely stalls, but usually starts back up, it died yesterday and wouldnt start back for like an hour, i got it to start by taking off the crankshaft position sensor, wiping it off and putting it back on, and it started, been having this problem since

Perhaps a new CPS? It still may be fuel delivery, like ya originally thought, I'll look through the manual tonite, see if it leads us anywhere.

One off-the-ball thought, disconnect your battery for around 5 minutes. perhaps [maybe] there is is an error code messing with ya. Clearing the comp., may reset the prob. If not, it only one cable off and on, so ya have nada to lose by trying.

Perhaps a new CPS? It still may be fuel delivery, like ya originally thought, I'll look through the manual tonite, see if it leads us anywhere.

One off-the-ball thought, disconnect your battery for around 5 minutes. perhaps [maybe] there is is an error code messing with ya. Clearing the comp., may reset the prob. If not, it only one cable off and on, so ya have nada to lose by trying.

alright man, i owe you props from way before when you said "maybe it's the fuel pressure regulator"... well i investigated the regulator and found that the return line was dry as a bone and no gas was coming out of the regulator even when i unhook the return line and start it... so i yanked a fuel pressure regulator that (ironically) looked just like mine off of a late eighties isuzu rodeo or trooper or something in my grandpa's junkyard, the fittings of course were different, but the jacks on this regulator were just standard fuel line clamps and so i made it work... started the car and immediately noticed the smell was gone, also the idle was the same on rpms but much quieter outside the car, would it sound odd if i said the car 'sounded rich' like clinkery sound from the exhaust before i changed the regulator, because it is healthier sounding at idle, anyways, no more sputtering on full throttle the baby just goes. a little bit later while driving i noticed a little miss while accellerating from a stop, only in the most strainful times, like right before an automatic downshift under load... the car will miss a bit, i already know its either the plugs (which have been running VERY rich for a lil over a month now) or the wires, it doesnt miss at all until after driving for a while, so its easy diagnosis.

one more thing, i yanked that little box out of from under my dash with the little metal coil thingies thinking maybe it had something to do with my heater not working... :(:(:( well, after that my blower only works on high, how did i mess it up? how can i fix it? do i HAVE to replace the part?

Uh, do ya mean the relay itself???? Black box, about 1 1/2" square, 5 metal prongs? Or are ya talking about the ballast resistor, or what, I can't tell.

Re the running rich, the scavenged regulator you rigged in may not have the same flow rate as the OEM part, which would suggest the symptoms you describe.

alright... the fuel pressure regulator that shows up for my car (to buy) is 184 dollars, and mine was out, this same exact holley fuel pressure regulator shows up as a replacement for the isuzu junker too, im not worried about it being the wrong regulator because it has never ran this good... im sure its the wires\plugs, ive had this problem before, it is simply miss'n i will change the plugs, wires, and fuel filter... guys it really is a true junker so im SO happy to have it running good... i gave 100 dollars for this car, it had been sitting for about 3 years... bad muffler, the windshield wiper motor is out, air and heat both are broken, but you know what... the outside has one little dent over the passenger headlight on the hood... it had a window knocked out that i luckily got from a junkyard for 20 bucks, now the car goes down the road very well, rides very well, has good accelleration, and gets me where i need to go, also i fixed the muffler, so it doesnt at all seem like a 100 dollar car, im sure anyone would be amazed to find out i gave 100 bucks for it.

anyways, i am missing both blinker lenz on the front, i guess they are weak, both mine are gone, and my grandpa had a premier a few years back he had to replace one also.

the major problem with the car... BENDIX 10 ABS SYSTEM is a nightmare. of course my piston seal has gone out and caused my abs pump to be abnormally loud, so then the chrysler people tell me the recall has already been done to my car and they wont do it again for free.... so i called the hotlines available for this shit, they straightened it all out, called the chrysler place and TOLD them they WILL fix the brakes free of charge if it is the same safety recall... so i gotta have them check it out next week

Wish ya well, and hey $100, NOT BAD!!!!!!!!!!!! I bought my '89 for $200 three years ago, it still doing very well for it's age.:)

Re the missing, if ya brave enough, look inside the cap and at the rotor for carbonization or buildup at the contact points, alnog with doing wires and plugs.