Multiple/Random Cylinder Misfire
98slab88
03-18-2006, 12:52 PM
The car is a 1998 Olds 88 with the 3800 series II motor, with 90000miles on it. I brought it to advance to check out the code and got the random/multiple cylinder misfire code. this is how it went down... Driving on the thruway (about 75-80mph) went to pass someone, the tach probably hit 4000rpm and then the car kinda cut out, there wasnt any power until the rpm dropped back down. And the rest of the way home if I went to 4000rpm it would do the same thing. the next day it seemed fine but once in a while it would lose power at lower RPMs (~2000 - 3000). If I hold the gas down when its misfiring (losing most of its power) after a few seconds it would regain its power and run fine, then lose it again later on. The poblem happened suddenly, but a friend that works at advance said start with a basic tune up, i doubt that would help because the problem started instantly. I was think a crank or cam position sensor. Any idea?
thanks,
Steve
thanks,
Steve
maxwedge
03-18-2006, 02:49 PM
Replace the fuel filter then check the fuel pressure during the power loss, try and use one with a long hose you can tape it to the w/s and drive monitoring the pressure.
98slab88
03-18-2006, 06:04 PM
Yeah, I replaced the fuel filter and it seems great! But only one time for about 5 seconds it started to misfire again. The check engine light went off and hasnt come on again... But I will continue to run it to see if it cleans up. I also put in some dry gas to make sure it isnt a moisture problem, I did fill up my gas tank the night before. Thanks for the input!
olds8894
03-18-2006, 11:25 PM
Check your spark plug wires. If they are bad, they will cause a misfire.
98slab88
03-21-2006, 04:07 PM
Okay.... it started to do it again. I just filled up my gas tank again. The car accelerates great until the pedal reaches about 3/4 of the way down, and then it loses its power and the check engine light comes on. Everytime the pedal is down that far it will do it, it doesnt matter what RPM the engine is at. Any ideas? I just had the plastic plenum replaced by a shop a few weeks ago. Could it be a throttle position sensor?
Thanks for your help so far !!!
-Steve
Thanks for your help so far !!!
-Steve
maxwedge
03-21-2006, 07:35 PM
Again, the fuel pressure is what when this happens??
olds8894
03-21-2006, 09:46 PM
3/4 the way dow you say? My car was doing that too. I thought it was the EGR Valve or the MAF so I cleaned those and it still did it. Then I thought maybe the Catalytic converter was bad so I took it in and the muffler shop took it off. Now my car accels all through the pedal.
98slab88
03-21-2006, 09:52 PM
Sorry... I checked the fuel pressure like you said while driving. During idle its around 60psi, under acceleration its around 65psi, when it starts missing the pressure increases the most, hits around 70psi and higher. Also, it might be valuable to mention this... when the car is missing it doesnt jerk the car or seem rough... it just doesnt have power. Also when it is missing for a few seconds or more the check engine light will flash. I put some fuel injector cleaner in today. When driving it today I found out that the longer I drive it the worse it gets and can start missing before the 3/4 point with the gas pedal is reached. I let the car sit for a few hours and it is much better and will only miss at the 3/4 mark with the pedal.
Thanks again guys
Thanks again guys
olds8894
03-21-2006, 09:57 PM
It sounds exactly like what was wrong with my car. I'm not a mechanic, yet, but I'd try the catalytic converter route.
98slab88
03-24-2006, 07:18 AM
I looked under the car yesturday and checked out the exhuast system. I bumped my hand against the cat and could hear something large that was loose in there, I normally would cut it apart and weld in a straight pipe (I always used to do that on my older cars) but there is an O2 sensor located after the cat. So I will pick up a direct fit cat from the autoparts store and drop it in a week or so and let you guys know.
I have also noticed these things: The warmer the engine temp is the more often the car misfires. And the when the car goes from running fine to misfiring, it's like on and off, there is no gradual decrease in power. And if I accelerate very slowly I can go farther past the "misfire point" and pretty much come close to flooring the pedal before it misfires again.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Steve
I have also noticed these things: The warmer the engine temp is the more often the car misfires. And the when the car goes from running fine to misfiring, it's like on and off, there is no gradual decrease in power. And if I accelerate very slowly I can go farther past the "misfire point" and pretty much come close to flooring the pedal before it misfires again.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Steve
maxwedge
03-24-2006, 09:25 AM
I looked under the car yesturday and checked out the exhuast system. I bumped my hand against the cat and could hear something large that was loose in there, I normally would cut it apart and weld in a straight pipe (I always used to do that on my older cars) but there is an O2 sensor located after the cat. So I will pick up a direct fit cat from the autoparts store and drop it in a week or so and let you guys know.
I have also noticed these things: The warmer the engine temp is the more often the car misfires. And the when the car goes from running fine to misfiring, it's like on and off, there is no gradual decrease in power. And if I accelerate very slowly I can go farther past the "misfire point" and pretty much come close to flooring the pedal before it misfires again.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Steve You can check the cat with an infrared themometer, temp at outlet should be 100 degrees more than inlet after driving, how long are the plugs and wires in the car?
I have also noticed these things: The warmer the engine temp is the more often the car misfires. And the when the car goes from running fine to misfiring, it's like on and off, there is no gradual decrease in power. And if I accelerate very slowly I can go farther past the "misfire point" and pretty much come close to flooring the pedal before it misfires again.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Steve You can check the cat with an infrared themometer, temp at outlet should be 100 degrees more than inlet after driving, how long are the plugs and wires in the car?
98slab88
03-24-2006, 11:14 AM
Well I was going to replace the cat now anyway. As far as I know the plugs and wires are less than 6 months old. But maybe this weekend I will change them out. What plugs do you recommend? I know they use the oridium? plugs, but I have always been a big fan for the bosch platinum 4.
Thanks
Thanks
olds8894
03-24-2006, 07:25 PM
Dont replace the cat. Just put a 'test pipe' in, unless you are an enviromental wacko. I've never had a single problem since having a 'test pipe' put on. The extra power is worth it. Sorry to hear that you have this problem, its not fun and it is very frustrating.
98slab88
03-25-2006, 12:15 PM
Haha I'm anything but an enviromental wacko, haha. I normally would weld in a test pipe but the car is a 1998, and has OBDII, and since it has a sensor AFTER the cat I dont want the computer to throw a code. I allready ordered the cat and will install it next weekend. Today was weird though, it did not misfire at all, but it seemed sluggish. Then after backing up a concrete step into my garage, and installed some new light bulbs, I turned the car back on to pull it out it was misfiring. Weird, I'll just replace the cat.
For the temperature thing, I'll have to find someone with an infared thermometer and I will check it out.
Thanks
For the temperature thing, I'll have to find someone with an infared thermometer and I will check it out.
Thanks
90BuickSlab
03-26-2006, 02:16 AM
yo mayne, dont be a pussy just rip the cat out and slap in a straight pipe, just think of all that horsepower it's robbing.
:evillol:
:evillol:
98slab88
03-29-2006, 06:06 AM
Well I welded in a brand new OEM style cat and it didnt help at all. It has to be a sensor, it only makes perfect sense the way the car acts, when it misses the engine loses power instantly like a switch was turned off. I think I'll take it to the shop for them to diagnose it.
And the spark plug wires are the OEM length.
Thanks,
Steve
And the spark plug wires are the OEM length.
Thanks,
Steve
98slab88
04-02-2006, 01:27 PM
Okay here's the deal, I replaced the coil packs and the car runs great.
Thanks
Thanks
'9588
04-05-2006, 03:41 PM
Okay here's the deal, I replaced the coil packs and the car runs great.
ThanksYup - the ol' coil-packs problem. My '95 has gone through, oh, "several" packs and then some over the last 2 years - sometimes, they go bad so fast that they get replaced for free under warranty. Dunno why, but that's the only trouble I've had in several years is coil packs and ignition control module (replaced 2x ). I rather like the car, just wish it was built to Toyota standards ;)
ThanksYup - the ol' coil-packs problem. My '95 has gone through, oh, "several" packs and then some over the last 2 years - sometimes, they go bad so fast that they get replaced for free under warranty. Dunno why, but that's the only trouble I've had in several years is coil packs and ignition control module (replaced 2x ). I rather like the car, just wish it was built to Toyota standards ;)
olds8894
04-05-2006, 11:34 PM
Yup - the ol' coil-packs problem. My '95 has gone through, oh, "several" packs and then some over the last 2 years - sometimes, they go bad so fast that they get replaced for free under warranty. Dunno why, but that's the only trouble I've had in several years is coil packs and ignition control module (replaced 2x ). I rather like the car, just wish it was built to Toyota standards ;)
Toyota standards? Come on, they aren't that great. God bless america and american cars.
Toyota standards? Come on, they aren't that great. God bless america and american cars.
98slab88
04-06-2006, 06:01 AM
Toyota standards? Come on, they aren't that great. God bless america and american cars.
haha hell yeah. I mean I'm not hating on Toyotas but you cant compare them to GM cars. We're in a whole different class. :smokin:
haha hell yeah. I mean I'm not hating on Toyotas but you cant compare them to GM cars. We're in a whole different class. :smokin:
auto trainy
04-06-2006, 11:26 AM
That statement (toyota standards) might have been true 15 yrs ago but not now,I'm a firm beleaver in the American Automobile Industrie but right now there in dier need of improvement,like someone stated recently (GM and Ford) should stop moaning about things and build better cars then people won't want to convert. jmoo
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