Still having problems

It seems I'm still having electrical problems with the car....went to start it tonight, and the battery was almost dead, wouldn't start...had to push it out, and fiddle with the battery, and jump start the thing.

Hopefully I can get it sorted when I get my friend Mike to check the wiring sometime soon.

Grrrr!!!!!!

oh well...have to get the thermostat problem fixed first, and then get the electrics sorted... my friend reckons perhaps the amp is connected to a constant source.

Actually the thermostat problem, is effecting the VTEC cutting in....

sometimes when VTEC cuts in.... its just not right....like as if the engine is cold.... Oz can verify this after sitting in the car...

I noticed just after taking the car for a short drive...vtec still cuts in the majority of the time regularly in the lower rev ranges...but once you get to higher rpm..its pretty noticeable..... just doesn't want to go.... like between 7000 rpm and up.....

anyway....atleast the new cat and exhaust seem to be flowing ok now.... well breathing better.

If the temp is too cold, VTEC shouldn't cut in at all as I recollect. I can't remember if the rev-governor kicks in as well.Do the VTiR 'tegs run 2-stage VTEC? I thought it was just single stage like the SiR. It should come on in the 5000s and stay on all the way to redline.

If it's not - maybe it's the VTEC unit itself - but in this case I'll profess ignorance ;)

Originally posted by Setanta
If the temp is too cold, VTEC shouldn't cut in at all as I recollect. I can't remember if the rev-governor kicks in as well.Do the VTiR 'tegs run 2-stage VTEC? I thought it was just single stage like the SiR. It should come on in the 5000s and stay on all the way to redline.

If it's not - maybe it's the VTEC unit itself - but in this case I'll profess ignorance ;)

well the other day when Oz was in the car, the needle was on the cold line, and when you were running out of lane, and the vtec was cutting in, on the car, it just didn't sound right, and it wasn't hardly going anywhere...

happened a couple of times...even though it was making the sound for the vtec to cut in....

well the vtec cuts in about 4500 rpm, and you get the secondaries at about 6200 rpm.

Shouldnt the secondaries cut in at 5800?

Maybe Im wrong but It sounds to me from your description like your revving it wen its cold which your not supposed to do, im sure you know what your doing though and its just me misinterpreting your discription

Q,

Um... I’m not trying to sound like Mr Clever trousers here or anything, :smoker2:
but….
Have you checked the health of your battery?
Fluid levels, voltage, specific gravity and how old is it?

Re: Jump-starting your car: If a voltage spike protection circuit is not present in your jumper leads.
Only use a battery that has been removed from or disconnected from a vehicle to jump-start your car.
A voltage spike can/could damage the circuitry and or wiring in your vehicle. (ECU, ABS unit etc)

Re: Thermostat sticking open, intermittently… (Unusual, thermostats tend to fail shut)
Do you or have you experienced the phenomena you speak of on the rather cold days of late?
The heater bypasses the thermostat…
Try letting the car warm up prior to turning your heater on full…

I hope that didn't sound patronising...

Originally posted by dejoux
Shouldnt the secondaries cut in at 5800?

Maybe Im wrong but It sounds to me from your description like your revving it wen its cold which your not supposed to do, im sure you know what your doing though and its just me misinterpreting your discription

No dejoux I'm talking about driving the car for half an hour or even more, sometimes an hour, and the needle is still on the cold line, or under...and sometimes the vtec isn't right when it cuts in....

by that time the engine should be hot.

Originally posted by Hypertune A.J.
Q,

Um... I’m not trying to sound like Mr Clever trousers here or anything, :smoker2:
but….
Have you checked the health of your battery?
Fluid levels, voltage, specific gravity and how old is it?

Re: Jump-starting your car: If a voltage spike protection circuit is not present in your jumper leads.
Only use a battery that has been removed from or disconnected from a vehicle to jump-start your car.
A voltage spike can/could damage the circuitry and or wiring in your vehicle. (ECU, ABS unit etc)

Re: Thermostat sticking open, intermittently… (Unusual, thermostats tend to fail shut)
Do you or have you experienced the phenomena you speak of on the rather cold days of late?
The heater bypasses the thermostat…
Try letting the car warm up prior to turning your heater on full…

I hope that didn't sound patronising...

Adrian its a brand new battery.... and before that I had a brand new battery that went flat a few times, so its definitely not batteries...this one has higher amp as well.

its been an ongoing problem that started in december, so I know its not the battery. its just that I haven't been driving the car as much, so its sits there longer, so power must be draining somewhere...

I'm not sure what the problem is with the thermostat, but my cousins will be having a look next weekend anyway..thanks :)

Adrian its a brand new battery.... and before that I had a brand new battery that went flat a few times, so its definitely not batteries...this one has higher amp as well.

Please say no... It's not an Odyssey?
Did you change anything on the car in december ?

Originally posted by Hypertune A.J.


Please say no... It's not an Odyssey?
Did you change anything on the car in december ?

odyssey??? :confused:

my integra ??

no I didn't change anything on the car in december...only thing was I parked it at my unit for a couple of days and didn't drive it then it went flat....

its when I don't drive it for a few days that it goes.... It seems I can't leave it for 3 days without driving it otherwise it goes flat....

plus I don't drive it to work anymore cause I work day shift, so that's why it spends most of its time in the garage now, apart from a couple of short drives during the week...or even if I take it out for a spin...its only going about 2 - 300 km a week max compared to about 700 km I used to average.

because of parking issues I go to work with my sister in the civic.

odyssey???
my integra ??

:rolleyes:
Not the car... the battery....
Is it an Odyssey battery?

Originally posted by Hypertune A.J.


:rolleyes:
Not the car... the battery....
Is it an Odyssey battery?

NO :silly2:

P.S I was only teasing :p

What is P.S.I ?

Originally posted by Hypertune A.J.
What is P.S.I ?

nothing....

I meant....


P.S

"I was only kidding"

LOL :p

I knew that...:silly:

I've really grips with my lexdixia... gotta get to :silly2:

Originally posted by Hypertune A.J.
I knew that...:silly:

I've really grips with my lexdixia... gotta get to :silly2:

:silly2:

hahaha... yeah I feel like that sometimes :p

Long distance diagnosis attack… (Yes I’m bored… at home with a sore finger drinking a beer)

Is your alternator's voltage rectifier working correctly?
I.e.: Is there a constant 14 - 14.5 volts a cruise?
Btw: The alternator doesn't charge at idle on your car... (Unless you turn a few things on)

Do you have an aftermarket stereo system with amplifiers in your car?
Quick-track or other form of immobilisation unit?
Have you fitted any gauges recently?

Placing a voltmeter across the terminals of your battery. Do you see 12.5 volts?
What is the longest charge time it has received?
Do you own a wall charger that you can connect to your battery when your vehicle is not in use?

Originally posted by Spunkymonkey

I'm not sure what the problem is with the thermostat, but my cousins will be having a look next weekend anyway..thanks :)

I repalced the thermostat in my Mum's EG Civic a few weeks ago, she has only had the car for a few months, but I noticed it was taking ages to reach full operating temp, sure enough my suspicions were correct the thermostat was stuck fully open.

You can find out easily if its the problem, just start your car from cold, if both the top and bottom radiator hoses get warm after about 1-2 minutes of running, then it is stuck open.
I got a new one from Honda ~$65NZ and put it in myself, didn't take long to do, now the car reaches operating temp in a few minutes. :D

Originally posted by Hypertune A.J.
Long distance diagnosis attack… (Yes I’m bored… at home with a sore finger drinking a beer)

Is your alternator's voltage rectifier working correctly?
I.e.: Is there a constant 14 - 14.5 volts a cruise?
Btw: The alternator doesn't charge at idle on your car... (Unless you turn a few things on)

Do you have an aftermarket stereo system with amplifiers in your car?
Quick-track or other form of immobilisation unit?
Have you fitted any gauges recently?

Placing a voltmeter across the terminals of your battery. Do you see 12.5 volts?
What is the longest charge time it has received?
Do you own a wall charger that you can connect to your battery when your vehicle is not in use?

yes I do have aftermarket stereo system :p

do you read what I post A.J :silly2:

and type of immobilisation unit...yes

I have already had an auto-electrician check the volts and it was fine.

getting a friend to check it soon, he thinks it may be the amp.

least of my worries anyway....

as on the way home, heard, squealy exhaust noise like the bolt was loose between extractors and cat again....

jacked up car, to find that the bracket at end of extractors, that attaches to the other metal bracket leading to engine bay, has actually broken off at the extractors end :eek:

so yeah, have to see whether it can be welded...otherwise....I'll need new extractors.

do you read what I post A.J

Weeeeeeeeeell,
I must admit you kinda... um... do talk it up bit sometimes (no offence) so perhaps I skimmed over it. Oops...

Best way to fix your exhaust problem is to find the cause.
I doesn't matter how bung it looks... it can be welded.
Why it's crack aught to be investigated...
Are they B18 headers or B16? (B16 ones are a wee bit shorter)
Is the flex portion of the pipe long enough?
Or is the bracket on the exhaust misaligned with the hanger from the back of the block?
Did the problem arise after a new cat-back exhaust was fitted?
Is the exhaust system hanging nicely or is it taught

LOL :p

I think Pete is right on this one....the cause more than likely is engine mounts....which I'll be getting checked out on weekend.

got it welded this morning.

Fair enough... *shrug*
I must admit I didn't consider your engine mounts could be shot...

well, the harder suspension could be causing the engine to move more now, cause I do fang it around corners and stuff much more than I used to, when I go out driving...

I'll see if we can find the problem on the weekend.

You need Sikflex............ :huh:


cause I do fang it around corners and stuff much more than I used to, when I go out driving...

Q... I'm a little puzzled......
I don't quite understand...
What is it that you do around corners when your not driving ?
What exactly is it that you stuff much more than you used to ?
And why is your new suspension is attached to the engine ?
:silly2:

Originally posted by Hypertune A.J.
You need Sikflex............ :huh:




Q... I'm a little puzzled......
I don't quite understand...
What is it that you do around corners when your not driving ?
What exactly is it that you stuff much more than you used to ?
And why is your new suspension is attached to the engine ?
:silly2:

LOL :hehehe: :silly2:

Sikflex.......... (no kidding) ;)

my friends vtir teg has some problems... hope some1 can shed some light!

ok we wired up a 'vtec light' from the vtec solenoid so wen vtec kicks in, the light will turn on (works on my car) except when vtec should be kickin in, it doesnt (we cant hear it) so after disconnecting the vtec light it, vtec works as normal... needless to say we didnt end up wiring it up... so i figured the prob was that the vtec light was taking to much voltage away from the soleniod (i did the same thing on my car and everything works fine)...

another prob was that he fitted a sony cd deck in his car and whenever he hits vtec, the fuse would blow... dunno which fuse (behind the deck or the one under the steering column.. hadnt asked)..

any1 else had these probs??

oh and on my car ive fitted an autometer guage (water temp in Farenheit) and sometimes it reaches 210F... is that normal?.. plus the thermo fans dont work i dont think cas i cant hear it.. wot do i do??.. just wire up a switch with a relay??...

my friends vtir teg has some problems
ROFL :bloated:
Are you completly sure it is the car that has the problems...

ok we wired up a 'vtec light' whenever he hits vtec, the fuse would blow
Vtec light? Keh?
What for? So that you know...
ROFL,
That's absolutely ridiculous!
What difference does it make if you know or not?

Simple solution to a simple problem… Remove it.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the two problems are related.

Here’s a little rule of thumb that’ll see you through life…
Now this is for the benefit of those who don’t actually know…

If something don’t need fixing… Don’t F%#k it!


wot do i do??

210 deg F = 98 deg C
This is normal in most late model factory cars in traffic.
You've got problems if it gets up to 220-230F


Online temperature conversion calculator (http://www.webwinder.com/wwhtmbin/jtempcon.html)

thermostat replaced....car is showing normal temperatures now :)

engine mounts ok.....

will monitor how the car goes anyway.

but yeah... getting a little smoke now and then :(