Nissan 97 Maxima Starting Trouble

I have strange problem with startup. After turning on key sometimes Car wont crank at all , does no do anything. If i do jumstart it starts immidiatly.

Today when car was not starting i just turn on the engine & shift gear to Neutral & it started immduatly without jumpstart.

This problem is intermittent & happens any time. Sometimes it starts just fine.

Can someone tell me what this problem could be ?

Thanks

SP

My starter broke in my 2000 and it did that on and off for like 4 months before it wouldn't start at all.

I have strange problem with startup...

How many miles?

The symptoms fit to various issues. I'll list some:
- battery intermittent internal cut; if so, replace
- grounding, supply wire contact problem (see link below, pages 5&10), clean
- starter solenoid contacts burned (if its ?? still clicking), replace 20$
- starter brushes worn, replace, 5$
- shifter switch dirty/worn, replace.
- inhibit and/or Engine cont -relays not activated or contacts burned. Swap, replace, correct problems (like alarm on)

I have New Starter, Cleaned Battry terminals, Battery Checked at both Advanced auto parts & Sam's Club both tested good for charging & health.

Why Car would start if its in Neutral if this problem occurs.

... would start if its in Neutral if this problem occurs.

Then the batt was good as it was tested. Do test it when nostart, under load, when the intermittent cutout problem is ON... Relatively cheap to swap: a batt price is of "Hi, good morning" at stealership.

Check now charge voltage at idle, higher rpm. Should be 13.8V or more.

If the gear select sw doesnt 'activate P', symptoms would be like that. The switch is a safety device for accidental startup while gear is on.

Try cleaning/replacin the Sw, selector wire adjustment. If the problem always disappears with playing gear selector, there is no other start problems.

Then the batt was good as it was tested. Do test it when nostart, under load, when the intermittent cutout problem is ON... Relatively cheap to swap: a batt price is of "Hi, good morning" at stealership.

Check now charge voltage at idle, higher rpm. Should be 13.8V or more.

If the gear select sw doesnt 'activate P', symptoms would be like that. The switch is a safety device for accidental startup while gear is on.

Try cleaning/replacin the Sw, selector wire adjustment. If the problem always disappears with playing gear selector, there is no other start problems.

Thanks for ur reply. Today my mechnic did the same thing he cleaned the sw, there was some plastic thing that was stopping for contact at P sw.

Now I am left with Check engine Light PO443 EVAP Purge Control Valve Malfunction code. My mechnic told me he dont have tools to test it, need to take it to Nissan dealership to diagnose it. I have my Car Inspection due by march end, i have to fix this before month end to pass inspection.

Pl tell me how to fix this code.

Thanks

SP

Sounds like vacuum leak. Ten yr old max has some 'twenty' cracked vacuum hose ends; it theyre not yet problem, soon will be. Best way is to take out each hose end, clip off ½ inch, reseat. This is a DIY job: if u take one out, clip and re-insert, theres no danger of mixup. Engine side 'hot ends' are baked in and pulling isnt enough, hose end needs a push with a screwdriver or whatever.

Also some plastic container(s) may have a crack, have to take out for inspection - if hoses are ok. Valve itself may be tested by applying direct +12V, blow through. If I remember right, gas fill cap has a one way valve interconnected in this system... I will check and PM you later.

Batt off 30min for ECU reset.

[edit]
The ECU controlled EVAP valves (2pcs) are on top of intake, measure for coil resistance & airflow.
- One is ECU controlled solenoid valve. Test air passage, connector off and then jump +12V/gnd, hear click, tst for air passage.
- Second valve is controlled&powered via the vacuum from first.

The evap canister & evap vacuum sensor are behind driver rear wheel. Canister may leak, sensor may be bad and/or connectors oxidized.

Gas temp sensor in gas tank; its input is needed to ECU/EVAP diagnosis.
See detailed info, system diagrams & howto check (check my CDomain Favorite Links) from FSM pages EC-21 - 24 and EC-225; EVAP contr system pressure sensor EC-250

But as already said, start from system vacuum leaks: filler cap, vac hose system from rear to front.

Nutral Safety Switch on the trans needs to be adjusted. Your car will not start if it thinks your in Gear. Thats why it will work in Nutral. If you run into the problem where it wont start.. Hold the key in the crank postion and wiggle the shifter while in park.. Forward and back without taking it out of park.. If it starts .. You need and adjustment.. If it only starts in Nutral , you really need an adjustment or a switch

AS Far as your Evap .. Vent control valves i have seen fail. Just becarful removing them and dont break the 10mm bolt holding it, Cause then you ll need a canister also.

The vent control valve for the evap System Is on the left rear of the car.. Left meaning Drivers side.
Under neath the left rear quater by where teh muffler woudl be if it was on that side. you'll See i Square Black Canister. That is your evap canister. There is a valve attached to it that has 2 10 mm bolts holding it.
1 Fairly big tube . Bigger than the 2 smaller going in to canister. and 1 Electracal plug. After removing it. The side that goes onto the canister , Inspect it. With a very small screw driver or a Pick , There is a little Valve you can lift up and down .. If it doesn't move freely thats your problem..GL

Nutral Safety Switch on the trans needs to be adjusted. Your car will not start if it thinks your in Gear. Thats why it will work in Nutral. If you run into the problem where it wont start.. Hold the key in the crank postion and wiggle the shifter while in park.. Forward and back without taking it out of park.. If it starts .. You need and adjustment.. If it only starts in Nutral , you really need an adjustment or a switch

AS Far as your Evap .. Vent control valves i have seen fail. Just becarful removing them and dont break the 10mm bolt holding it, Cause then you ll need a canister also.

The vent control valve for the evap System Is on the left rear of the car.. Left meaning Drivers side.
Under neath the left rear quater by where teh muffler woudl be if it was on that side. you'll See i Square Black Canister. That is your evap canister. There is a valve attached to it that has 2 10 mm bolts holding it.
1 Fairly big tube . Bigger than the 2 smaller going in to canister. and 1 Electracal plug. After removing it. The side that goes onto the canister , Inspect it. With a very small screw driver or a Pick , There is a little Valve you can lift up and down .. If it doesn't move freely thats your problem..GL

Hi Thanks for ur reply , my mechanic did adjustment & it fix the Problem.
About PO443 is it EVAP Cansister Purge Control Solenoid valve , or EVAP Cansister Purge Control Valve , which one could be bad, anyways to test them on my own? I can send u pictures from manual to u & diagnosis given there , cant attach here... the one with Electrical Plu is called as EVAP Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve. How much this will cost me ? I asked one mechanic he told me labour will be 100$ for diagnosis & part will be extra ...& then after running through cycles after clearing code it will pass NY state Safety & emission inspection.

What could be possible reasons for P0443 check engine light code ?

Thanks

Sp

you can pop the valve off and try to fix it your self , it's fairly easy. I'm Sorry i have no Picture,but i will describe it so you know what you are doing.

In the left rear of your car. Driverside Rear. Where the muffler would be if was on ther side.. When you look up into ther rear quarter, you'll see a black square box. This box is your evap canister. It will have 2 small hoses going to it and one big one that is attached to a Valve ( or silonoid ) . This valve will have 2 10mm bolts holding it in place with one electric plug to it. Carefully remove the 2 10 mm bolts and inspect valve. If any of the bolts break you will need a evap canister ! Any way inspecting the valve can be done like this.

The open end of the valve that was inside the canister , Look down inside it. With a pen or a pick see if you can make the valve inside move freely up and down. It should want to just drop right back down. If you find any resistance in this valve , it needs to be changed. If no problemsa are found then reinstall valve and your going to have to have the system pressure checked for leaks. I noticed you said you live in NY how far in NY , I live in NJ

you can pop the valve off and try to fix it your self , it's fairly easy. I'm Sorry i have no Picture,but i will describe it so you know what you are doing.

In the left rear of your car. Driverside Rear. Where the muffler would be if was on ther side.. When you look up into ther rear quarter, you'll see a black square box. This box is your evap canister. It will have 2 small hoses going to it and one big one that is attached to a Valve ( or silonoid ) . This valve will have 2 10mm bolts holding it in place with one electric plug to it. Carefully remove the 2 10 mm bolts and inspect valve. If any of the bolts break you will need a evap canister ! Any way inspecting the valve can be done like this.

The open end of the valve that was inside the canister , Look down inside it. With a pen or a pick see if you can make the valve inside move freely up and down. It should want to just drop right back down. If you find any resistance in this valve , it needs to be changed. If no problemsa are found then reinstall valve and your going to have to have the system pressure checked for leaks. I noticed you said you live in NY how far in NY , I live in NJ

Hi

Thanks for your reply. I went to one mechanic shop he is pointing it towards EVAP Canister Purge control Valve from Code P0443 he got on his meter. I am near Albany app 150 miles from NY. Do u think Code P0443 which is for EVAP canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve which is at front of the Engine related to this EVAP Canister Vent Control valve for which there is diffrent code as P0446. Does problem to one code related with the problem to other code.

If its really EVAP Vent control Vlave problem then why my car does not dispaly code P0446 at all during diagnosis. I took it to atleast 3 diffrent mechanics all getting same code P0443.

Pl guide as i dont want to pay for wrong diagnosis...

Thanks

SP

Hi ...
Pl guide as i dont want to pay for wrong diagnosis...

Hi ... why not then -read- ...your PM Private Message top right as suggested?

I have seen Vent control valve through a Number of different codes. I detailed how to inspect the valve , it was a suggestion though my experience. I rarely ever see the one under the hood go bad. Unless the canister internally fails where it clogs up the evap system. Where if that happens you just have to take a hose off and shake it ,and you will see it's full of pellets. Feel Free to aks me any more Questions you may have

I am Scared to take out the Valve as mechanic told me the 2 Screws holding the Canister are very difficult to come out & its going to damage the Canister . Its not only this Valve there is another part which related to EVAP Purge Vlave & Canister which also need to be replaced. He told me he seen this problem before no of times , just replacing the valve will not fix the problem , LED will come again if i drive for 70-80 miles to pass emission test. Ttotal estimate given by him is 400-500$ ( 54 $ for Valve , 80$ Canister + 200 $ Related Parts+ labour ). I asked him to take out the valve & chek but he denied, i am computer person dont know much in car mechanics & never did any work on my own. Pl let me know if estimation given by mechanic is correct or not. If you are in NJ i can drive to your place on weekend if u can fix it for less..:) Pl let me know , appriciate ur help.

Thanks

SP

P0443 and P0446 are codes corresponding to the EVAP system. The EVAP system uses a charcoal canister to capture raw fuel vapors (hydrocarbons) from the fuel tank so they aren’t released into the atmosphere. The charcoal adsorbs hydrocarbon vapor, meaning the vapors are held on the surface of the charcoal and can be released by a burst of fresh air. When the ECU determines it should purge the canister, a vacuum is created that pulls fresh air through the carbon canister to the intake manifold. The valve opens and the vapors are consumed by the engine. The EVAP system is a non continuous OBDII monitor, only active certain times. A sensor in the EVAP system monitors fuel tank pressure to detect restrictions and fuel vapor leaks of no more than 0.04” in diameter in a hose or filler cap. These leaks can be caused by something as minor as a gas cap that hasn’t been tightened enough. However, Nissan issued several technical service bulletins regarding the EVAP systems on 1996 and 1997 Maximas. P0443 is the code for the Evaporative Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and P0446 is the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (Circuit). They control fuel tank venting air flow volume to prevent hydrocarbon's from escaping the fuel system and polluting the atmosphere. A properly functioning EVAP system consists of two functions- detecting leaks in vent lines and the hydrocarbon airflow purge from the canister to the engine. Your system is not properly purging the canister. Caused by water entering the hoses and corrosion and, believe it or not, spiders building nests in the vent tube, failure to the canister purge solenoid is common in these vehicles. The system was later updated to include a water separator which should be installed when replacing the solenoid to prevent further defects to the EVAP system. If the canister itself is not working properly, charcoal pieces may have obstructed the solenoid. There are 10 pieces to the package and not all of them may need to be replaced. A flow test of the canister purge valve and a pressure test of the EVAP system with the engine off can be performed to determine leaks in the fuel tank, lines, or cap and fix the problem. Although the EVAP codes don’t cause any performance issues, you will need to fix them if you want to pass emissions. While some OBDII codes only remain on until the system that failed passes a self-test on 3 consecutive trips, emissions problems need to be fixed before the code can be erased.


Got from webste...http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/july03/ask_sarah/