Tips on porting?

I already read the vfaq a couple of times on porting an o2 housing, but I was curious if anyone had any tips or nething more to port. One question I do have is with the wastegate opening, should I open it up a lot and try to keep the shape, or does it matter? I wanna try to get rid of my boost creep and also this is more of a fun thing rather then something that needs to be perfect, if I need to, Ill buy a ported one on ebay lol, also, this is an extra o2 housing.

I put some info on my site I Think. BUt I wouldn't expect porting the o2 housing to do anything for boost creep.

Even if I opened up the wastegate part a lot? Or do I have to actually port my wastegate? How would I go about doing that.

Well last time I read your site, I didnt have a clue on porting, now I have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done. Where exactly is the flapper hole though, is it that bar from the wastegate going to the exhaust side of the turbo?

The flapper hole is the hole covered by the flapper. Basically the WG exahaust passage in the turbine housing. The WG "exit area" I refer to is the area where the flapper opens into. The WG flapper opens nearly all the way by hand, but the actuator only opens it to about 45 degrees, directing all of the WG gasses into the wall of that WG exit area. By reshaping that, and porting the gasket and O2 housing to match, I was able to get the creep on my 14b down from something like 22 psi to 15 or 16 psi, without even porting the hole at all. ;)

The WG flapper opens nearly all the way by hand, but the actuator only opens it to about 45 degrees, directing all of the WG gasses into the wall of that WG exit area. By reshaping that, and porting the gasket and O2 housing to match


How did you go about reshaping that exit area? I understand everything else, but is it more of allowing the actuator or open more, or smoothing it out to work as an advantage to it only opening 45 degrees? Sorry if thats kind of hard to understand, but I have a pretty good idea of what to do now, thanks.

The second option there. You can't affect how far it opens, that's a function of the actuator. You have to port it make the best of the flow at that angle. Looking at used parts you can sometimes tell where the gasses hit the wall. I open up that chamber toward the main exhaust passage as far as I can, leaving that dividing wall very thin, but enough so it doesn't crack (doesn't even matter if it does though). And shape the wall down with a nice curve to make it easy for the gasses to get up there. You'll have to port the gasket to match on the corners, then use the gasket as a template to port match the o2 housing. :)

Ok cool, thanks so much Kevin.