Extra thick head gasket
gmbwrenchn
03-13-2006, 09:19 PM
Anyone know where to get an extra thick head gasket for a 95' Grand Am 2.3Ltr.?
skibum1111
03-13-2006, 10:19 PM
All the gaskets I found when looking for mine were stock thickness... Why would you need a thick one anyway?
gmbwrenchn
03-13-2006, 10:29 PM
GTPDAD QUOTE.................
"If it is out more than that you will have to have the block resurfaced. Although check with the gasket dealer as they do make gaskets that are extra thick to take care of this. Also make sure that the machine shop that tests the head checks the head too."
"If it is out more than that you will have to have the block resurfaced. Although check with the gasket dealer as they do make gaskets that are extra thick to take care of this. Also make sure that the machine shop that tests the head checks the head too."
skibum1111
03-14-2006, 08:21 AM
If the head or block is that far off, find another one. DOHC heads are not too hard to find in good shape, sohc heads are nearly impossible to find. Blocks are easy to find as they didn't have any problems with that end of the motor. Just my :2cents:
gmack221
03-14-2006, 03:52 PM
Your best bet is talk to the machine shop doing the work on your block / head, if you need a thicker gasket they will know where to find them (im sure its not the first one they've ran into this way). The blocks don't warp much since there cast iron, the head does because its aluminum, but check it out like GTP Dad said.
You can check this in the car with a good straight edge and feeler gauges, but everything should be room temp (70 deg F) when checked, like after your car has sat in a heated shop for several days, my machine shop checked it the day after I dropped of the block (since there was no guts in the motor it could be checked sooner). You can get a good idea if its flat or not while cold, but it should truely be done at 70 deg.
When I did my 2.3l I found out after I had 1/2 my parts that the machine shop could get rebuild kits and parts cheaper then I could. Price parts on your own, then get prices from the machine shop. If the machine shop tries to charge you more for the parts find a new machine shop, if they are going to rip you on parts they are going to rip you on machine work.
You can check this in the car with a good straight edge and feeler gauges, but everything should be room temp (70 deg F) when checked, like after your car has sat in a heated shop for several days, my machine shop checked it the day after I dropped of the block (since there was no guts in the motor it could be checked sooner). You can get a good idea if its flat or not while cold, but it should truely be done at 70 deg.
When I did my 2.3l I found out after I had 1/2 my parts that the machine shop could get rebuild kits and parts cheaper then I could. Price parts on your own, then get prices from the machine shop. If the machine shop tries to charge you more for the parts find a new machine shop, if they are going to rip you on parts they are going to rip you on machine work.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026