92 grand am 3300 idle up and down can anyone helpme plllllllll
trucker38
03-13-2006, 09:57 AM
i tried that but it not the problem i change the tps that not it now i getting a poping when i give it gas chould it be my map sensor
maxwedge
03-13-2006, 10:04 AM
Look for vacuum leaks, hot or cold?
trucker38
03-14-2006, 08:33 AM
thank you but it still does it when it warm and in park or nutrel
swalt
03-14-2006, 01:11 PM
Pull out your IAC (idle air control valve) on the side of the throttle body (drivers side). It is likely sticking or very dirty and sticking. Held in by two screws. A little tricky to get the screws back in unless you have a screwdriver that holds the screw as you thread.
http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/93053.jpg
http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/93053.jpg
trucker38
03-15-2006, 05:53 AM
ty i let you no how it goes
dholmes
04-27-2006, 03:23 PM
From the subject, this sounds like a problem I had (same car, year, and engine). The engine would often oscillate between 500 and 1500 RPM while idling in park. It was actually a solder joint on the shifter indicator circuit board. There is a signal line to the computer that gets its input via the park and neutral LEDs on this board. (The Haynes book said it's from a park/neutral switch on the transmission, but I never found one.)
It wasn't hard to fix (just to find!). Remove the shifter handle (held in place by a C-clip), pop off the center console panel (the long piece that includes the lighter/ashtray and window switches) and remove the indicator board. Then re-solder the connections for the P and N LEDs (just melt the connections and add a little new solder). You may want to examine the connections with a magnifying glass before touching them up; I found that the bad joint was hard to see but visible on careful examination. Cleared it right up for me....
I remember taking some pictures of the board but can't find them now...
It wasn't hard to fix (just to find!). Remove the shifter handle (held in place by a C-clip), pop off the center console panel (the long piece that includes the lighter/ashtray and window switches) and remove the indicator board. Then re-solder the connections for the P and N LEDs (just melt the connections and add a little new solder). You may want to examine the connections with a magnifying glass before touching them up; I found that the bad joint was hard to see but visible on careful examination. Cleared it right up for me....
I remember taking some pictures of the board but can't find them now...
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