Dyno'ing this Saturday.

At least 1 full hour of dyno time, more if I need it, wideband of course, and a DSM wiseman with me :grinno:

I'll post the results here, I'm not going to mess with race gas, I don't ever plan on using it that often, so no point in wasting time on a tune with it. I gotta do a boost leak test and change the plugs this week before I go.

How much did that cost?

saturday, as in 6 days away, or yesterday?

Next Saturday right? How much power you looking to make?

Well, the owner of the shop is also a friend of a friend. Probably around 50-60 bucks only. I would have paid full price, but this is even better. I dyno the 18th. I'm looking to make 330whp+ on pump gas around 21psi, just depends how good we can tune it.

thats pretty good on your evo216g..

Well, judging by how much airflow I'm logging, it's definitely doable. I tune for 0 knock though, timing will likely be retarded rather than advanced. We'll see what we can pull out of it.

I need to take my car to a dyno too before I start going to the track. Good Luck :D

How much air flow are you logging?

330whp is a lot for pump gas and the Evo III 16g. Some people dont even get that far on race gas. It will be interesting though to see how much you make according to your goal. I'm not saying you arent going to make that, just it might be a little more difficult then you imagine. I'd bring some race gas with just to compare... Run your tank kinda low for the first couple pulls(around E) then put in some race gas and up the boost a little. You should get some nice numbers.

Good luck.

Dang, that be alot of powa! Good luck man, try to take some vids and or pics! hehe

I thought that if you tune for higher boost and race gas, the tune would stay just as good when you run lower boost/grade gas. Right or wrong?

I know it might seem high, but I definitely think it's attainable. Most people that can't break the 300's with the evo3 are running 550's and a safc2. I have full control over timing and enough fuel for a 50 trim, so we'll see. It all depends on the tune, and I happen to be friends with a wisemen ;)

Thor, that's not really correct. The main reason for race gas is for anti-knock protection. If you don't knock, you can raise timing. Timing is the big power maker IMO. So, if you tune for race gas, and advance timing a few degrees, then when you run pump gas, you'll detonate and go kaboom.

I would expect 330 to be doable as well, but a lot of it depends on what kind of dyno the shop has ;) On a dynojet, no problem. On a DynoDynamics or Mustang, it will be a little tougher. My EVO did just under 300 on a mustang dyno on pump, which would allegedly work out to about 330 on a dynojet. You've got the same sized turbo as me (naturally) and a couple more mods (bigger FMIC, other than stock plastic BOV, etc). Hopefully you can at least run the stock timing on the high load map (peaking around 16 degees), if you have to run low timing to avoid knock the numbers will certainly represent that. What airflow and AFR are you running? I shoot for around 11:1 for AFR, and run 40-42 lbs/min at 21 psi. Shit, that reminds me. If you don't have cams, you'll need to run more boost to get the same airflow, which can be a real pain in the ass on pump.

With low 10's for a/f ratio, I can get around 36lbs of airflow. This is at 19-20 ps

HKS 272's and magnus SMIM are next, just need to have a job to buy them and can't work and go to school at the same time, so I wait until summer to do my modding. Although I have around 500 saved right now. I should get the cams first, right?

I think the cams would be the next best mod for your setup.

Yeah, I'd definately go cams first.

Cams and Intake are both worth about 3-4 lbs/min each, but yes, cams would probably make more sense first. Cams provide no real driveability problems or other drawbacks, while the SMIM can cause some strange low rpm behavior (nothing we can't learn to live with of course) and will force you to find places to mount things like coil pack, redo your vacuum system, etc. At least with DSMlink you don't have to worry about EGR. 10:1 is pretty rich, I have found that I have more trouble trying to tune in that range than when I run the old standby of 11:1... In fact I would run 11:1 and do the rest with timing. Going richer than 11:1 has very little effect on knock (not worth the power loss), and I've also found that going leaner provides only minimal gains in power (not worth the risk).

I'll give 11:1 a shot. This is the first time I get to tune with a wideband, so I'm sure of the AFR. My dyno session actually turned into a mini-dsm session now that I posted it on a local DSM forum, 3 of us as of now are tuning. I'll have plenty of advice and time.

I can't find NGK BP7RES's ANYWHERE. I've called every car store in this damn town, even the rice shops. I can't find these bastards anywhere. Looks like I'll have to order online and ship 2-day, dammit.

Advance auto parts carries them, thats where I got mine anyways.

correction

NGK 7's are Oreilly's stock number 2023

dumbasses that work there just can't type

I usually go to Advanced and order 16-20 at a time. Usually lasts me a good 6 months.