My eclipse is faster than yours-revised

hey,
now that I have your attention with that catchy title :P, I have posted before a list of mods that seemed very unrealistic and downright stupid. I have been doing some research and have made up a new list. Let me know if this sounds more realistic.

ACT XACT Streetlite flywheel
ACT Maxx Xtreme Clutch Kit
APEXi Super AFC II
DC SPORT Carbon steel strut tower bars (front)
DC SPORT Carbon steel strut tower bars (rear)
GREDDY EVO2 exhaust
GREDDY 660cc fuel injectors
GREDDY Type-S boost controller
ROTORA Crossdrilled/slotted big brake kit
AGP Turbo kit (full race turbo upgrade, race manifold T3/T4 50 trim T3/T4, .63 A/R housing, 700+HP race intercooler kit, HKS SSQV BOV, 38mm Evolution Wastegate 3" Intake)
TEIN EDFC- Electronic Damping force controller
TEIN SS (supper street) Coilovers
WALBRO 255lph HP in-tank fuel pump
NX Nitrous Express dual stage EFI system

Does this sound better than my old list? Anything I should add or drop..?
Still looking for my 500hp mark..Think that I am a lot closer to that mark now than I was with that other sh*tty list!

Thanks

This list looks pretty good, but 500hp is a lot harder to get than you think it is... I'd say with that setup your lookin at about 400hp or so with the right tuning. It also really depends on how much boost your planning on running. I also noticed that you didn't have any type of fuel managment listed. If you plan on running all that you will need an AFC, GM Maf Translator, or DSMLink to adjust your fuel. Along with that your gonna need a Fuel Pressure Regulator to really have full control over your fuel. You should consider some different CAMS too.

Oh yeah, I'm not sure how much the nitrous will help you. I'm not very familiar with using it. I guesstimated about 400hp without the nitrous.

Other than that, its lookin a lot better than the old list. :thumbsup:

I am going to be running race fuel all the time...no more pump gas for me...I was told that I wouldnt really need a fuel management system....is it really that necessary? I am already gonna be spening well over $10000 if I buy all this from a shop.... The turbo kit is well over $4000. DSMlink is what I should get then?

Whoa man, holy shit! What kind of shop are you getting this stuff from? 4000 for a turbo kit?? What all does this 4000 dollar kit include?

You WILL need fuel management or your stock ECU will continue to give it stock fuel settings which will make the car run like shit. If you have the money for DSMLink then I'd say go for it. I haven't gotten to experience it yet. I'm just sticking with my AFC and MAf Translator for now...

Fuel management is completely necessary whenever pushing more power out of an engine. Think about it. Your goal is 500hp and the car has about 200hp stock... The fuel settings MUST be changed.

it is all coming from www.sportcompact.com and www.agpturbo.com actually looked up the prices and they were actually giving me a deal....the stuff is a lot more on other sites...all brand spankin new stuff! I have a AFC II...
The $4000 includes: AGP Turbo kit (full race turbo upgrade, race manifold T3/T4 50 trim T3/T4, .63 A/R housing, 700+HP race intercooler kit, HKS SSQV BOV, 38mm Evolution Wastegate 3" Intake)

Ummm, the AGP site is some grain farmers site. lol

That kit of all the stuff you listed can be bought for about 2500 dollars if you piece it all together yourself. Over 4000 is just ridiculous.

As for the AFC2, it'll work for managing your fuel. But I still think you should get a FPR.

afc will be nothing without a data logger and even at that dsm link would blow both out of the water, go with dsm link espically with that turbo

Props for doing more HW.

Try 1000aaq, vfaq, and other DSM specific sites and vendors rather than SC. Our stuff is in some ways easier and cheaper. Your turbo and suspension could be thousands cheaper.

Shooting for 500hp directly is difficult. Give yourself a little time to grow with the car. If I don my flamesuit, I'll also tell you that hp is the potential performance of the car, whereas times are a more true marker.

afc will be nothing without a data logger and even at that dsm link would blow both out of the water, go with dsm link espically with that turbo
This is true, I did forget to mention a datalogger with the proper OBD2 plug and software. Thank you. :)

I was under the impresion that the amount of spray is the amount of HP you gain. like a shot of 75 is 75 hp?

Whenever thay say something like "full race turbo" or "stage 3" you know it's overpriced. You can pick up a 500 hp turbo for $800, an SBR cast manifold or a Megan tubular SS one for less than $300, if you need a HKS SSQV you can get it new for $200-$250 and used for as little as $100 probably or there are many cheaper BOVs, a Tial wastegate for $250-$350, and an ebay fmic kit for <$300.

That's less than $2k rather than $4k.

All strut bars are basically the same so just get a cheap front, rear, lower tie bars package off ebay for like $60. For the coilovers, Megans are 32 way adjustable, with upper pillow ball mounts, and have camber adjustment on the top like any other really expensive coilover. And they're only $850.

If i do get the DSlink...will I have to upgrade my ECU to a EPROM ECu? or will the dsmlink work on my current one...(1996 eclipse gst)

ACT XACT Streetlite flywheel
ACT Maxx Xtreme Clutch Kit
APEXi Super AFC II
DC SPORT Carbon steel strut tower bars (front)
DC SPORT Carbon steel strut tower bars (rear)
GREDDY EVO2 exhaust
GREDDY 660cc fuel injectors
GREDDY Type-S boost controller
ROTORA Crossdrilled/slotted big brake kit
AGP Turbo kit (full race turbo upgrade, race manifold T3/T4 50 trim T3/T4, .63 A/R housing, 700+HP race intercooler kit, HKS SSQV BOV, 38mm Evolution Wastegate 3" Intake)
TEIN EDFC- Electronic Damping force controller
TEIN SS (supper street) Coilovers
WALBRO 255lph HP in-tank fuel pump
NX Nitrous Express dual stage EFI system

My first piece of advice, stop worrying so much about brand names on nonmoving and parts that hard hard to fuck up like intakes, exhaust systems, and short shifters etc. $4000 is WAY too much to lay down for some turbo/intercooler kit. Buy stuff piece by piece from SBR, eBay, dsmtuners.com classifieds, and local DSMers and you should be able to do it for a little more than half of that kit. Heres what I would do:
Exhaust - No need for overpriced Greddy shit when a much cheaper Megan, exhaust shop, or one made by yourself will work just as good. Besure to use/get a full 3" with mandrel bends. You should be able to do it for $600-$200.
Data Logging/Tuning - For 500hp, you will need bigger injectors than 650's and thats the limit for SAFC. Get DSM link $525, if you get lucky less. EDIT: Yes, you will need an EPROM ecu. What are they like $200?
Suspension - Dont fuck with DC sports strut bars, eBay ones will work just as well. What do you need Tein coilovers for? Unless you will be doing pro street or autocross races, completely overkill. Megan coilovers $850 on eBay or KYB AGX/Eibach Sportline combo for ~$450.
Drivetrain - Not sure what clutch you are talking about, but if you go ACT, get a 2600. SBR makes good clutches too, they say they have less pedal pressure than a 2600 but more clamping force $350. IIRC, the Fidanza flywheel is 8lbs where the ACT one is 12lbs and the Fidanza one is only like $180 shipped on eBay. Theres a big debate about lightweight flywheels, do some research. Also, you will need a LSD to make decent times on a 500hp FWD, but I dont rightly know how much they cost off hand.
Fuel - The Walbro 255 ($100 eBay) is right on, but you will need a FPR. Since I just read a bad review for the Megan FPR, I would get the Aeromotive one $140. With DSM link you can get as big of injectors as you want. I'd get 850's atleast and 1000's at most, not sure on prices for those.
Brakes - Again, a Rotora big brake kit will be completely overkill unless you are doing some hardcore street course racing. You can make a big brake kit for pretty cheap using 3000gt 4 piston calipers and Cobra rotors, otherwise I would just get some good pads and slotted/dimpled rotors. Be aware though, rotors with indentations/holes break easier than straight faced rotors. I heard that people will only put the slotted/dimpled ones on track cars and run normal flat ones on street cars.
Boost Controller - I would go manual boost controller, electronic ones are just too expensive for me. JoeP makes great MBC's for ~$40 shipped.
Intercooling/Intake - I'd get an eBay core if I were you. You could spend like $800+ on a name brand core/kit, but you can make one for much cheaper. The eBay cores are like $120 and you should be able to get couplers, clamps, and pipes for another $150-$200. HKS SSQV is a good BOV, Greddy Type S is good as well. If you arent going to be doing over 22psi the 1g BOV should do you fine. Also, you can do a mod to them to make them hold basically endless amount of boost. I wouldnt waste money on a name brand intake, you can make one of PVC for <$20. I wouldnt fuck around with anything but a K&N filter. I think the 2g MAF should do you fine, but it may be a good idea to get a GM MAF and translator ~$250. That would also allow you to dump to atmosphere without ill side effects.
Turbo - $4000 is WAY too much for that stuff and I doubt a 50 trim could make 500 easily. For a solid 500 hp, I would get a SBR 60-1 ($700) or a PTE 6031 (basically same thing, 60-1 but this one is dual ball bearing, $850). At that big of a turbo, I would get a manifold mounted external waste gate so you'd need one of those and a new manifold.
Engine - I wouldnt push a 7 bolt to 500 on stock internals. I would get a 6 bolt swap and build it up a bit. Since you are building the internals, you might as well do a 2.3L stroker. You'll want some more agressive cams, ss valves for the nitrous, and springs/retainers to deal with the cams better. You should be able to get the JE pistons for $450, Eagle rods for $300, 4g64 crank for like $150-$250 on eBay, plus all the bearings, gaskets, and little shit like that. I would suggest two cams, either HKS 272's or FP2/Comp 101200's. They are fairly comparable, but the FP2's/Comp 101200's have a tad more top end and a little less bottom end torque. The 272's are much more expensive though, you can get the FP2/Comp 101200's for $380 shipped on eBay right now. Thats almost what you'd pay for just the 272 intake or exhaust cam from a vendor. You'll want ss valves ($120 for some sorta questionable ones, $200 for Ferrea's) and I would get some dual springs and titanium retainers (~$350 IIRC from SBR). I would use stock hardware except for the main, rod, and head bolts, then you should get ARP stuff. Also, that stock head gasket probably wont hold a lot of boost. I would get a Cometic head gasket ($90-$100 on eBay and SBR) but remember, you will need to get your head resurfaced to work well on a metal head gasket.
Nitrous - I dont know much about nitrous. I would get a 75 shot and no bigger than a 100 shot. I'm sure you'd be fine if you go more, but 100 is kinda the limit for me. Also NOS, Zex, and Venom make decent kits, I would get whatever wet kit you can get cheapest.

I hope any of that helps, it took me damn near an hour to write ;). Just my two cents on everything. Remember, 500 hp is a lot for street. I would shoot for 500 on race gas and higher boost for the track, then turn it down to 12-18 PSI for the street and run 93 octane. Also, be sure to do all the maintainance. Check the timing belt regularly, use good oil (on a race engine like that, I would only use Royal Purple changed ever 3000 miles if you dotn race much, 2000-2500 if its raced a lot), and make sure the tranny fluid (I recommend Pennzoil Syncromesh) doesnt get neglected. Good luck!