87 iroc charging nightmare
bigbencamaro
03-09-2006, 06:15 PM
i have a 87 iroc z with the 305 TPI. the car runs fine but will not charge. i have a new battery and a new alternator. when running nothing comes out of the alternator at all. when we put it on the bench it is producing 14.4 volts. there is a 3 wire plug on the alternator. which i have no idea what it goes to. all grounds are on the car and clean. i tested all the fusible links all good. voltage gauge is new,:banghead: all bulbs in the instrument panel have been checked. i am at a loss. any ideas. :banghead: :crying: :disappoin :banghead: :banghead:
97cavalier
03-09-2006, 06:30 PM
3 plug on the alternator, that is the wire that produces the spark through out the motor right? So you have the alternator on but not pluged in?
alphalanos
03-09-2006, 06:34 PM
Is the power wire from the alternator to the battery good?
bigbencamaro
03-09-2006, 06:41 PM
the wire is new from the battery to the alternator. if i take the wire off the alternator and start it i have 0 coming out of the alt. thanks ben
97cavalier
03-09-2006, 07:37 PM
well no duh you will have 0 power, you unpluged it, make shure the wires are pluged in the alernator.
bigbencamaro
03-09-2006, 07:41 PM
fundementely the alt should produce current without the large wire connected as long as the wires are connected to the voltage regulator. correct. those wires are plugged in. and even with the whole system hooked up it is not charging. thanks
AFI 05
03-09-2006, 09:07 PM
check the thick pink wire going from the alternator...
bigbencamaro
03-10-2006, 08:04 AM
that is a beautiful car. looks exactly like mine. ill try the wire. thanks ben
Link85x
03-10-2006, 09:26 AM
Bigbencamaro, welcome aboard. Btw, you picked a good year.
wrightz28
03-10-2006, 09:30 AM
You are testing the alternator all wrong. The alternator is not going to charge an open circuit (which you created by diconnecting the wires). Open circuit = no amps (0 power flow)
You need to put a voltmeter on the battery and get static voltage (car off). 12.2V or less, your gonna have a hard time starting if at all. You wanna see around 12.2 - 12.6 for a good start.
Then, start the car, the voltage should have now increased into the mid 13's.
Once stabliized (starting amperage restored, put load on the battery, turn the lights, and heater, not ac, on high. Voltage should now read out near 14 -14.5 +/- w the engine rpms around 2k.
Again, this is done with a voltmeter ON THE BATTERY you can not rely on the dash guages, you will find out soon enough, they are not very accurate.
You need to put a voltmeter on the battery and get static voltage (car off). 12.2V or less, your gonna have a hard time starting if at all. You wanna see around 12.2 - 12.6 for a good start.
Then, start the car, the voltage should have now increased into the mid 13's.
Once stabliized (starting amperage restored, put load on the battery, turn the lights, and heater, not ac, on high. Voltage should now read out near 14 -14.5 +/- w the engine rpms around 2k.
Again, this is done with a voltmeter ON THE BATTERY you can not rely on the dash guages, you will find out soon enough, they are not very accurate.
bigbencamaro
03-10-2006, 05:57 PM
when i had the whole charging system together and tested it at the battery i had 12.7. while running dropped to 12.2 and went down from there. if i turn things on it drops even faster. i've tested it together and apart.
wrightz28
03-13-2006, 09:32 AM
Then you're not getting a charge at all to the battery. Either the cable is fried or loose or you got a bum one.
Don't forget belt tnesion either.
Don't forget belt tnesion either.
Rally Sport
03-13-2006, 10:05 AM
The guy is banned.. I think this should be closed because of that too. :lol:
wrightz28
03-13-2006, 10:14 AM
Oh, I will go get some more coffee.
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