1990 Acura Integra Alternator

Does anyone know how to get the alternator out of a 1990 Acura Integra? I have the alternator disconnected and unbolted. The problem is finding a space wide enough for it to fit through. I can't get it around the axle or anything else. Hope someone knows how this is done.

Thanks,

JD

Does anyone know how to get the alternator out of a 1990 Acura Integra? I have the alternator disconnected and unbolted. The problem is finding a space wide enough for it to fit through. I can't get it around the axle or anything else. Hope someone knows how this is done.

Thanks,

JD

You have to remove the axle to remove the alternator. Genius design, isn't it?

That's what I was affraid of.

Thanks for the input.

That's what I was affraid of.

Thanks for the input.

No problem...always glad to help.

do you think it might be possible to remove it by taking out the brake master cylinder and pulling it out that way??

only options to remove the alternator from a 2nd gen, are to drop an axle or disassemble the alternator in the engine bay and take it out piece by piece.

Does anyone know how to get the alternator out of a 1990 Acura Integra? I have the alternator disconnected and unbolted. The problem is finding a space wide enough for it to fit through. I can't get it around the axle or anything else. Hope someone knows how this is done.

Thanks,

JD

Well I had to put in an alternator not to long ago and I had the same problem..I didn't want to take of the axle so this is what I did....First it depends on the size of your arm...Second your going to have two peopl..One on bottom to hold it and another on top to tighten it up....that is how I did it..Hope you can get it in

I have an "alternate" plan. Instead of going to the trouble to replace the whole alternator, it should be possible, and Much easier and cheaper, to replace only the brushes, which might solve your charging problem. I believe there is a little access hatch to allow this without complete remove and replace. Last year, my 90 Teg's charging light came on during a short trip, the battery died before I could get home and I had to get it towed. My great local shop charged $150 to install a new set of brushes and I've had no trouble since.

why dont you just drop the driverside motor mount and jack up the block???????????

bam!!!!!!!1

now your alternator is out ;)

why dont you just drop the driverside motor mount and jack up the block???????????

bam!!!!!!!1

now your alternator is out ;)

because its so damn easy to drop the axles out of these cars. whats the point? 4 lug nuts, 1 nut on the axle, castleated (sp?) ball joint nut, and bam you got an axle out, now drop the alternator. You don't even need to screw with anything that would affect the alignment. 6 nuts and you can pop the axle out. The hardest part is jacking it up... besides I think you'd rip the opposite side motor mount (tranny mount) before you had enough room to remove the alternator. Not to mention the one by the header.

you dont need to jack it high. well, it might be considered tough if you dont have a nice jack to work with.

i bet i can drop the alternator out faster the mount way than if you did it the axle way..............................loser treats to hooters with a pitcher of beer and a cuban sandwhich with curly fries ;)

you dont need to jack it high. well, it might be considered tough if you dont have a nice jack to work with.

i bet i can drop the alternator out faster the mount way than if you did it the axle way..............................loser treats to hooters with a pitcher of beer and a cuban sandwhich with curly fries ;)



hmmm I might be up for that bet considering i have alot of practice pulling my axles and I need to rebuild my alternator anyway...

I have to agree with knorwj, the easiest way, and the way they are supposed to be removed, is to pull your axle. It's not as hard of a job as it looks, just be carefull not to rip the boot when prying on the axle. It's quite easy if you have an extra person to pry from the top while you are prying from the bottom.

i still think 2x 17mm bolts on the driverside mount and if you have power steering makes an extra 2x 14mm bolts and then apply the jack is much much easier.

what ever way works.

The only way I can see the axel way being a problem is if you have no air gun and your axel hub nut is seized on there and won't bust loose, no matter how big a breaker bar you have. Then, it can be hard as heck to break that nut loose...but if you hae an air gun bam....it's off in seconds anyway, even if it's seized...so it doesn't matter.

I might be off but i've replaced 2 and removing the master cylinder worked just fine...... it was quick and the only muss was bleeding the breaks after which was also pretty quick

Please try not to bring back old threads. It is against user guidelines here.


On a side note relevant to the original topic, I recently popped out my alternator to install new brushes. I found that you don't need to remove axles, master cylinder, or even motor mounts.

All I did was remove oil filter, and remove the two bolts holding the intermediate shaft, I then rotated the intermediate shaft so that the bracket was out of the way. After that the alternator was able to squeeze out between the shaft and the block. It did take a little bit of turning to get the right angle but when I had it turned right I almost dropped the alternator on my head. haha. Anyway its something for you guys to try next time you need to remove the alternator.

so sorry...just catching up on things...

Please try not to bring back old threads. It is against user guidelines here.


On a side note relevant to the original topic, I recently popped out my alternator to install new brushes. I found that you don't need to remove axles, master cylinder, or even motor mounts.

All I did was remove oil filter, and remove the two bolts holding the intermediate shaft, I then rotated the intermediate shaft so that the bracket was out of the way. After that the alternator was able to squeeze out between the shaft and the block. It did take a little bit of turning to get the right angle but when I had it turned right I almost dropped the alternator on my head. haha. Anyway its something for you guys to try next time you need to remove the alternator.

Since you mentioned it, I removed an alternator that way once. It was last spring. Didn't have to drop the oil filter though, but still, trying to position it to squeeze out through the intermediate shaft...not much fun. It you're good at removing an axle it can go quicker, though it's more work. I tried it one other time on another car, and dang it just wouldn't got thourgh. Had to remove the axel in the end.

Does anyone know how to get the alternator out of a 1990 Acura Integra? I have the alternator disconnected and unbolted. The problem is finding a space wide enough for it to fit through. I can't get it around the axle or anything else. Hope someone knows how this is done.

Thanks,

JD

Remove the neg battery cable- while on the ground remove the l/s axle nut
Jack up and support the front end
Remove l/f tire, lower ball joint, lower spring/strut nut and bolt, separte the lower ball joint from the knuckle. Without damaging the axle shaft -push it through the rotor.
Gently pry the axle from the center bearing axle support. after the axle is out.
Remove the top bolt and nut from the alt. Also the lower bolt. Postion the alt so you can unplug the regualtor and remove the battery calble.

not done yet- remove the alt mounting plate from the motor, 3 bolts. Drop out the alt.
Install in reverse- have fun

I just did it last week. It's not that hard but takes about an hour

With car on ground remove L/S axle nut, remove the battery grnd cable
Jack up car put jack stands under body not lower arm, remove tire, remove cotter pin on lower ball joint
remove lower strut bolt and nut. Remove lowr ball joint nut and use a pickle fork or puller, seperate spindle from lwr arm.
Gently tap axle out of hub. Use a large punch in hole do not ap out the threads,
After axle is out of hub, turn spindle assy and support axle.
Go under the car and pry the axle from the center bearing support. DO NOT pull the axle from shaft- this will dislodge the bearing. It can be tricky put take your time. Thier is a internal snap ring in the axle - that is why it needs to be pryed out. Use a large screw driver it a 3/16 or 1/4 head. Remove the axle holding the shaft not the ends.
Located the alt top bolt and nut remove it. lossen the lwr bolt, slide the alt over and remove the belt. Remove the lower bolt.
Position the alt so that you can diconnect the regulator pug and battery Cable.
Remove the 3 mounting bolts from the alt support to the engine.
Remove the alt throught he opening where the axle was.
Assembly is reverse. Change the alt belt now it easier now than later. You will need to remove the pwr steering pump belt and Air Comp (if it has AC).
Replace the Axle nut also tighten to 135 ft lbs and crimp the end to the notch in the shaft. Replace the cotter pin on the ball jiont .The idiot I got my car from used a roofing Nail ! Have fun.

Not sure if Hondas are any diff to Acuras etc in this respect but you can just undo it, and turn it to slide straight out the top. No harder than any other car out there....

Well guys and gals I have the easiest way to take care of this problem. This is the second alternator for this car in 9 months of couse the car was in Guam then shipped to Maryland so maybe the salt in the air, the moisture from the trip or whatever caused it to go bad so fast, of course the fact that I had to buy it in Guam could be a real key factor in this problem, and doing it this way will save you a lot of money. The guys at the shops around here want $408.95 to change the thing cause you have to remove the drivshaft they say. NOT SO!! Keep reading for the lowdown on how to do this fast and EASY!

First remove the battery cables, then remove the top bolt from the alternator it is a 12mm. After you jack up the front end, crawl under the front end on the drivers side and remove the three 14mm bolts holding the axel in place and the three 10mm bolts holding the cover for the brake lies. Rotate the axel bracket down take the oil filter and the long 12mm bottom bolt for the engine mount out. Remove the bottom bolt for the alternator remove the wire harness and positve cable, and slide it right out. Of course just put everything back it the reverse order with the new alternator when done. That easy, and it takes about 63 min from start to finish. Hope this helps somebody in the future!

Later,
Gator

sounds like a lot of work... did 2 .... remove the master cylinder..and there's room...easy peasy

Well guys and gals I have the easiest way to take care of this problem. This is the second alternator for this car in 9 months of couse the car was in Guam then shipped to Maryland so maybe the salt in the air, the moisture from the trip or whatever caused it to go bad so fast, of course the fact that I had to buy it in Guam could be a real key factor in this problem, and doing it this way will save you a lot of money. The guys at the shops around here want $408.95 to change the thing cause you have to remove the drivshaft they say. NOT SO!! Keep reading for the lowdown on how to do this fast and EASY!

First remove the battery cables, then remove the top bolt from the alternator it is a 12mm. After you jack up the front end, crawl under the front end on the drivers side and remove the three 14mm bolts holding the axel in place and the three 10mm bolts holding the cover for the brake lies. Rotate the axel bracket down take the oil filter and the long 12mm bottom bolt for the engine mount out. Remove the bottom bolt for the alternator remove the wire harness and positve cable, and slide it right out. Of course just put everything back it the reverse order with the new alternator when done. That easy, and it takes about 63 min from start to finish. Hope this helps somebody in the future!

Later,
Gator

And while you're at it, the easiest way to get dressed for the job is to start growing some cotton plants, then harvest them......

Dude, EASY is meant to be simple, less hassle etc, not overly complicated and completely unneccesary!

I'm having a.problem with getting lower ball joint to go back In to it hole. It acts like the axle is stoping it as if its not in far enough but its locked in the way its supposed to be. Is my axel messed up inside the boot? Anybody ever have this problem? I'm about to pull my hair out.