Cooling system problems?
-Eric-
03-08-2006, 03:00 AM
My wife had mentioned that the heat in our 2003 venture 3.4 V6 wasn't working in the morning. Sure enough, I let the van idle for a few minutes and the temperature climbed slowly and steadily to about 3/4 the range of the temperature gauge. The air coming from the heater was still cold.
The moment I brought up the RPMS, the tempertaure started to lower and the air coming from the vents warmed up. When I backed off to idle again, the air cooled and the engine warmed up. This van only has 75k on it, so I'm hoping it's not the head or intake gaskets. When I opened the radiator cap, the neck was lined with a rusty colored slime and it was a little low. I bought the van as a previous rental, so am I baiscally f-ed as far as getting the dealer to repair something like a bad intake gasket?
Any advice appreciated.
-Eric
The moment I brought up the RPMS, the tempertaure started to lower and the air coming from the vents warmed up. When I backed off to idle again, the air cooled and the engine warmed up. This van only has 75k on it, so I'm hoping it's not the head or intake gaskets. When I opened the radiator cap, the neck was lined with a rusty colored slime and it was a little low. I bought the van as a previous rental, so am I baiscally f-ed as far as getting the dealer to repair something like a bad intake gasket?
Any advice appreciated.
-Eric
cdru
03-08-2006, 08:07 AM
Those symptoms are classic signs of air in your cooling system. A head gasket is likely what is wrong from what you described.
The worst the dealership could say is no. Check with them to see if it's still covered. You could "forget" to mention that it was a rental. A quick glance through my '98 Trans Sport warranty doesn't show any exclusions for commercial or rental use, but you never know.
The worst the dealership could say is no. Check with them to see if it's still covered. You could "forget" to mention that it was a rental. A quick glance through my '98 Trans Sport warranty doesn't show any exclusions for commercial or rental use, but you never know.
Huney1
03-08-2006, 09:45 AM
You 'prolly have air in your cooling system and the air is trapped in the heater core so no heat. Here's how I was told to get the air out, and it worked.
Look at the left end of the front valve cover, small brass fitting where the black hose connects. Also look at the right/top radiator hose where it goes into the engine near the hose clamp, another brass fitting same as on the right.
A Chevy technician told me, don't run the engine with the brass plugs out, but with the *ENGINE COLD* take both fittings out, remove the radiator cap and make sure water runs out of both fitting holes. If not proceed to the garden hose thing.
PERSONAL SAFETY WARNING! DO NOT take either plug out of a warm or hot engine because the hot water could squirt out and cause a serious burn.
With a cold engine, I took a garden hose and put it in the radiator filler neck and wrapped a rag around it to make it seal as tightly as possible, then turn on the hose bib/faucet, (not wide open, just a nice trickle), and let it run until the water runs out both of the brass fittings, then with the faucet water running, put the fittings back in, remove the garden hose, put the radiator cap on and good to go.
WARNING! Brass is a very soft metal and strips out very easy, so be extremely gentle with the pliers or wrench. I REPEAT A PERSONAL SAFETY WARNING! Don't take either fitting out of a warm or hot engine because the hot water could squirt out and cause a serious burn. That goes for the radiator cap to. NEVER, EVER remove the radiator cap on a warm or hot engine! The half hour or hour it takes for the radiator & engine to cool down is nothing compared to the length of time it takes a scalding hot water or steam burn to heal.
Your problem is a small one so if you have any doubts go see your Chevy dealer and let them show you how to purge the cooling system, (and heater core), of air.
Let's hope it's not the intake manifold gasket gone bad because the only fix is to get it replaced. Some dealers allow 50% of the cost as a good customer relations thing and some allow nothing. We've heard both good and bnot so good about dealers chipping in to help the customer and a rental unit should not make one bit of difference. Best of luck to ya' and drive safe.
Look at the left end of the front valve cover, small brass fitting where the black hose connects. Also look at the right/top radiator hose where it goes into the engine near the hose clamp, another brass fitting same as on the right.
A Chevy technician told me, don't run the engine with the brass plugs out, but with the *ENGINE COLD* take both fittings out, remove the radiator cap and make sure water runs out of both fitting holes. If not proceed to the garden hose thing.
PERSONAL SAFETY WARNING! DO NOT take either plug out of a warm or hot engine because the hot water could squirt out and cause a serious burn.
With a cold engine, I took a garden hose and put it in the radiator filler neck and wrapped a rag around it to make it seal as tightly as possible, then turn on the hose bib/faucet, (not wide open, just a nice trickle), and let it run until the water runs out both of the brass fittings, then with the faucet water running, put the fittings back in, remove the garden hose, put the radiator cap on and good to go.
WARNING! Brass is a very soft metal and strips out very easy, so be extremely gentle with the pliers or wrench. I REPEAT A PERSONAL SAFETY WARNING! Don't take either fitting out of a warm or hot engine because the hot water could squirt out and cause a serious burn. That goes for the radiator cap to. NEVER, EVER remove the radiator cap on a warm or hot engine! The half hour or hour it takes for the radiator & engine to cool down is nothing compared to the length of time it takes a scalding hot water or steam burn to heal.
Your problem is a small one so if you have any doubts go see your Chevy dealer and let them show you how to purge the cooling system, (and heater core), of air.
Let's hope it's not the intake manifold gasket gone bad because the only fix is to get it replaced. Some dealers allow 50% of the cost as a good customer relations thing and some allow nothing. We've heard both good and bnot so good about dealers chipping in to help the customer and a rental unit should not make one bit of difference. Best of luck to ya' and drive safe.
-Eric-
03-08-2006, 10:56 AM
Are you suggesting running solely water in the cooling system after purging the air out? I topped it off with antifreeze this morning. Thanks for the feedback guys.
-Eric
-Eric
4432flying
03-08-2006, 11:15 AM
[QUOTE=-Eric-]My wife had mentioned that the heat in our 2003 venture 3.4 V6 wasn't working in the morning. Sure enough, I let the van idle for a few minutes and the temperature climbed slowly and steadily to about 3/4 the range of the temperature gauge. The air coming from the heater was still cold.
The moment I brought up the RPMS, the tempertaure started to lower and the air coming from the vents warmed up. When I backed off to idle again, the air cooled and the engine warmed up. This van only has 75k on it, so I'm hoping it's not the head or intake gaskets. When I opened the radiator cap, the neck was lined with a rusty colored slime and it was a little low. I bought the van as a previous rental, so am I baiscally f-ed as far as getting the dealer to repair something like a bad intake gasket?
Any advice appreciated. The first time I removed the radiator cap on my 02 venture at 23K miles, it had sludge on the underside of the cap. It has never lost any antifreeze. At that time I replaced the thermostat,and lost quite a lot of antifreeze. To refill the system I cracked (opened slightly) the two brass bleeder screws. they do not need to be taken out because they have a small hole in them about 1/2 way down the brass fitting. Then I filled the system to the top of the fill hole, put on the cap and tightened the screws. then I started the engine and let it warm up to build pressure in the system. With the engine running I again cracked the bleeder screws and then closed them when liquid came out of the holes. This worked for me. I hope this can help you
The moment I brought up the RPMS, the tempertaure started to lower and the air coming from the vents warmed up. When I backed off to idle again, the air cooled and the engine warmed up. This van only has 75k on it, so I'm hoping it's not the head or intake gaskets. When I opened the radiator cap, the neck was lined with a rusty colored slime and it was a little low. I bought the van as a previous rental, so am I baiscally f-ed as far as getting the dealer to repair something like a bad intake gasket?
Any advice appreciated. The first time I removed the radiator cap on my 02 venture at 23K miles, it had sludge on the underside of the cap. It has never lost any antifreeze. At that time I replaced the thermostat,and lost quite a lot of antifreeze. To refill the system I cracked (opened slightly) the two brass bleeder screws. they do not need to be taken out because they have a small hole in them about 1/2 way down the brass fitting. Then I filled the system to the top of the fill hole, put on the cap and tightened the screws. then I started the engine and let it warm up to build pressure in the system. With the engine running I again cracked the bleeder screws and then closed them when liquid came out of the holes. This worked for me. I hope this can help you
Huney1
03-08-2006, 11:32 AM
"Are you suggesting running solely water in the cooling system after purging the air out? I topped it off with antifreeze this morning." Absolutely not, you should keep 50% anti freeze in it year round.
4432bflying told you another way to purge the system and all we can do is tell you what worked for us and let you chose the method you desire.
4432bflying told you another way to purge the system and all we can do is tell you what worked for us and let you chose the method you desire.
-Eric-
03-08-2006, 11:44 AM
"Are you suggesting running solely water in the cooling system after purging the air out? I topped it off with antifreeze this morning." Absolutely not, you should keep 50% anti freeze in it year round.
4432bflying told you another way to purge the system and all we can do is tell you what worked for us and let you chose the method you desire.
Got it. I think I'll have the system flushed regardless and pressure checked. That way, if there is a leak in any of the gaskets, I can engage the service center on covering all or part of it. I mean, come on, I've maintained this vehicle religiously, head gaskets are not normal wear items. And if there is existing documantation on a known issue (TSB's or such) then there's obviously a problem that shouldn't be solely my responsibility.
-Eric
4432bflying told you another way to purge the system and all we can do is tell you what worked for us and let you chose the method you desire.
Got it. I think I'll have the system flushed regardless and pressure checked. That way, if there is a leak in any of the gaskets, I can engage the service center on covering all or part of it. I mean, come on, I've maintained this vehicle religiously, head gaskets are not normal wear items. And if there is existing documantation on a known issue (TSB's or such) then there's obviously a problem that shouldn't be solely my responsibility.
-Eric
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