'98 Taurus SE stalling out
mcconnc
03-07-2006, 07:21 PM
I have a '98 Taurus SE (87k miles, had tranny rebuilt at 72k). A couple weeks ago, after letting it warm up, I put it in drive to leave, and it stalled. It didn't start right up, but after sitting for a few mintues, I got it started while in neutral. It has been fine ever since, except for tonight. Same problem after work. It started right up, I let it warm up, then put it in drive and it stalled. I eventually did get it going after several minutes, and it started while in neutral. It then drove fine. I'm wondering what it could potentially be. It seems to have plenty of battery power (although battery is at least 4 years old), as radio and lights work fine. My guess is I can drive it another week and this may not happen again. Any suggestions? Maybe battery or alternator?
Also, and this is probably totally unrelated, I noticed my heat was blowing cold air, and it didn't seem to warm up any in my 15 minute drive home. I replaced the AC clutch & hub assembly about 1.5 years ago. Any thoughts on this issue too? Thanks to anyone out there! Any insight is appreciated!
Chris
Also, and this is probably totally unrelated, I noticed my heat was blowing cold air, and it didn't seem to warm up any in my 15 minute drive home. I replaced the AC clutch & hub assembly about 1.5 years ago. Any thoughts on this issue too? Thanks to anyone out there! Any insight is appreciated!
Chris
shorod
03-08-2006, 02:13 AM
Which engine does your Taurus have (12V or 24V)? Does the car start in Park, or only when in neutral? If only in neutral, what are the symptoms if you try to start in park (no crank?)?
Do you happen to have the defroster on when the car stalls? The defroster engages the A/C compressor (when the A/C system is properly charged and working). Maybe your idle air control servo is malfunctioning and not speeding up the idle when the A/C compressor is engaged. When you shift the car from park, you are loading the engine even more and the engine stalls. When trying to restart the car, try holding the throttle all the way to the floor (Wide Open Throttle - WOT) and see if that allows the car to start more quickly. This might indicate a rich/flooding condition due to an out of range coolant temperature sensor, etc.
I suggest you stop by a local auto parts store and have codes read. If any codes are stored, get them from the person and post them in this thread. I would expect that it will have some codes.
-Rod
Do you happen to have the defroster on when the car stalls? The defroster engages the A/C compressor (when the A/C system is properly charged and working). Maybe your idle air control servo is malfunctioning and not speeding up the idle when the A/C compressor is engaged. When you shift the car from park, you are loading the engine even more and the engine stalls. When trying to restart the car, try holding the throttle all the way to the floor (Wide Open Throttle - WOT) and see if that allows the car to start more quickly. This might indicate a rich/flooding condition due to an out of range coolant temperature sensor, etc.
I suggest you stop by a local auto parts store and have codes read. If any codes are stored, get them from the person and post them in this thread. I would expect that it will have some codes.
-Rod
mcconnc
03-08-2006, 07:49 AM
Rod-
Engine is 12V. The car starts in park. It fires up fine, then it stalled out when putting in drive (but it has only stalled 2 times in the past 2 weeks, I drive it everyday). When it stalled out, while trying to start back up in park, it just kept turning over, but wouldn't fire. That's when I've gotten it to start in neutral, and I had to hold throttle wide open in neutral to get it going. I always have the defroster off when starting. The funny thing is, after I've gotten it started after the stalling episodes, it will eventually run fine and not stall out.
Check engine light is not on, but I will see if there are any codes.
Maybe this give you a bit more info. Thanks.
Chris
Engine is 12V. The car starts in park. It fires up fine, then it stalled out when putting in drive (but it has only stalled 2 times in the past 2 weeks, I drive it everyday). When it stalled out, while trying to start back up in park, it just kept turning over, but wouldn't fire. That's when I've gotten it to start in neutral, and I had to hold throttle wide open in neutral to get it going. I always have the defroster off when starting. The funny thing is, after I've gotten it started after the stalling episodes, it will eventually run fine and not stall out.
Check engine light is not on, but I will see if there are any codes.
Maybe this give you a bit more info. Thanks.
Chris
shorod
03-09-2006, 01:01 AM
Sounds like the air/fuel mixture may be rich. With any luck there will be a stored code in the computer indicating a problem with the Coolant Temp Sensor, oxygen sensor (HEGO or HO2S), EGR or DPFE sensor, or Idle Air Control (IAC) servo.
Before spending a bunch of money on new sensors, you may want to remove the air intake hose at the throttle body and open the throttle plate wide open. Inspect the throttle body and back of the throttle plate for carbon build up. If there is a large amount of carbon, you may want to purchase some throttle body cleaner safe for coated throttle bodies and clean the carbon. You will probably need to remove all 6 spark plugs and crank the engine over a few times to get the excess throttle body cleaner out of the engine. Hold some rags over the plug holes to prevent some of the mess.
I've had really good luck with STP throttle body cleaner, for the price it cuts through the carbon VERY effectively.
-Rod
Before spending a bunch of money on new sensors, you may want to remove the air intake hose at the throttle body and open the throttle plate wide open. Inspect the throttle body and back of the throttle plate for carbon build up. If there is a large amount of carbon, you may want to purchase some throttle body cleaner safe for coated throttle bodies and clean the carbon. You will probably need to remove all 6 spark plugs and crank the engine over a few times to get the excess throttle body cleaner out of the engine. Hold some rags over the plug holes to prevent some of the mess.
I've had really good luck with STP throttle body cleaner, for the price it cuts through the carbon VERY effectively.
-Rod
mcconnc
03-12-2006, 11:50 AM
There were no codes in the computer. I cleaned out throttle body w/ cleaner. Carbon build up wasn't too bad, but needed to be cleaned.
Also installed new fuel filter, and put some fuel injection stuff in gas. Maybe the combination of these three items will have fixed it. It hasn't stalled out again, but last time it went about 2 weeks without doing it. Will see, and monitor. Thanks for your input.
Chris
Also installed new fuel filter, and put some fuel injection stuff in gas. Maybe the combination of these three items will have fixed it. It hasn't stalled out again, but last time it went about 2 weeks without doing it. Will see, and monitor. Thanks for your input.
Chris
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