97 Gt Fuel Gauge
chevelle_6969
03-05-2006, 09:21 PM
does any one know if the fuel gauge is different from 97 to any other years? the instrument carrier looks the same from 1997 thru 2002 but im not sure about the fuel gauge. mine is screwed up so i bought a couple off of ebay but they wont work, they try to move then fall to empty. thanks in advance
BNaylor
03-06-2006, 06:33 AM
Are you sure the problem is the gauge. There is a fuel level sending unit with the fuel pump assembly. It operates as a float level device and sends a signal to the gauge depending on fuel level.
You can check the input at the IP panel to make sure it is the gauge or sending unit.
BTW - IP Carrier is supposed to be the same from 1997 - 2002.
You can check the input at the IP panel to make sure it is the gauge or sending unit.
BTW - IP Carrier is supposed to be the same from 1997 - 2002.
richtazz
03-06-2006, 09:40 AM
According to the GM computer, the 97 model had a first and second design on the GTP supercharged model. The vin cut off is 238197. If your car's vin #'s last 6 digits is 238197 or lower (or fuel sender tag code WFL), you need AC-Delco #sk1048 (GM#25314218) . If your vin ends in 238198 or higher, you need AC-Delco # sk1016 (GM#25314265). They both are available for $80.32 each + s/h. PM me with your zip code if you're interested and I can get you an exact shipping quote. I work at an AC-Delco distributor in Flint, MI and have the SK1016 in stock, the SK1048 I'd have to order and would take a day or two to get.
BNaylor
03-06-2006, 10:06 AM
According to the GM computer, the 97 model had a first and second design on the GTP supercharged model. The vin cut off is 238197. If your car's vin #'s last 6 digits is 238197 or lower (or fuel sender tag code WFL), you need AC-Delco #sk1048 (GM#25314218) . If your vin ends in 238198 or higher, you need AC-Delco # sk1016 (GM#25314265). They both are available for $80.32 each + s/h. PM me with your zip code if you're interested and I can get you an exact shipping quote. I work at an AC-Delco distributor in Flint, MI and have the SK1016 in stock, the SK1048 I'd have to order and would take a day or two to get.
I thought he listed a GT. I can see the GTP having two designs because there is technically a 97.5 model which is more like a '98 model. Mine is a 97.5 GTP.
Here is the part I had problems with in my 97.5 GTP. Fuel level/float sending unit. This item is 99% of fuel indication-gauge problems on most model Grand Prixs.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelsensor.jpg
I thought he listed a GT. I can see the GTP having two designs because there is technically a 97.5 model which is more like a '98 model. Mine is a 97.5 GTP.
Here is the part I had problems with in my 97.5 GTP. Fuel level/float sending unit. This item is 99% of fuel indication-gauge problems on most model Grand Prixs.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelsensor.jpg
richtazz
03-06-2006, 10:42 AM
Thanks for catching my error Bob, I stand corrected . He did say GT, and I mis-read it as GTP. But the 1st and 2nd design still applies, just the part numbers are different.
vin #238197-before (sender code WFA) is an SK1083 (GM#25319676)
vin #238198-later (sender code WFR) is an SK1019 (GM#25319675)
The price stays the same though, $80.32.
vin #238197-before (sender code WFA) is an SK1083 (GM#25319676)
vin #238198-later (sender code WFR) is an SK1019 (GM#25319675)
The price stays the same though, $80.32.
BNaylor
03-06-2006, 11:05 AM
Thanks for catching my error Bob, I stand corrected . He did say GT, and I mis-read it as GTP. But the 1st and 2nd design still applies, just the part numbers are different.
vin #238197-before (sender code WFA) is an SK1083 (GM#25319676)
vin #238198-later (sender code WFR) is an SK1019 (GM#25319675)
The price stays the same though, $80.32.
Thanks for the info Rich. Considering it is the data for the fuel level sending unit we are in agreement as to the most like cause.
BTW - It is a PITA just changing out the sensor. Easy to break plastic parts. On top of that I had to do some wire soldering. If he can get a good deal on a known good complete fuel pump pod from the boneyard for his specific model I recommend going that route for ease of replacement, convenience and time saving.
However, your price is excellent if he wants to go that route.
vin #238197-before (sender code WFA) is an SK1083 (GM#25319676)
vin #238198-later (sender code WFR) is an SK1019 (GM#25319675)
The price stays the same though, $80.32.
Thanks for the info Rich. Considering it is the data for the fuel level sending unit we are in agreement as to the most like cause.
BTW - It is a PITA just changing out the sensor. Easy to break plastic parts. On top of that I had to do some wire soldering. If he can get a good deal on a known good complete fuel pump pod from the boneyard for his specific model I recommend going that route for ease of replacement, convenience and time saving.
However, your price is excellent if he wants to go that route.
richtazz
03-06-2006, 11:20 AM
The entire fuel pump assembly part numbers are:
1st design 43-918 (gm# 25162373) $286.74
2nd design mu121 (gm#35179344) $248.56
I read the original post as he was looking for just the fuel level sensor, but I agree with you that if I was doing it, I'd replace the entire fuel pump/sender unit, not just the level sensor.
1st design 43-918 (gm# 25162373) $286.74
2nd design mu121 (gm#35179344) $248.56
I read the original post as he was looking for just the fuel level sensor, but I agree with you that if I was doing it, I'd replace the entire fuel pump/sender unit, not just the level sensor.
BNaylor
03-06-2006, 01:50 PM
FYI. GM "W" body fuel pump pod with fuel level sensor:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelpump03.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelpump03.jpg
wlkjr
03-06-2006, 07:30 PM
I have the same problem with mine and I just reset the odometer every fill-up and make sure I fill up again around 360-375 miles. I don't want to sink too much into a car with this many miles on it.
On the other hand, my girlfriend paid a garage $400 to fix her Jimmy. And she didn't get kissed either.
On the other hand, my girlfriend paid a garage $400 to fix her Jimmy. And she didn't get kissed either.
richtazz
03-07-2006, 06:12 AM
There is an access panel in the trunk, so you don't have to drop the tank, Doing a fuel pump isn't as hard on these cars as most, but still not a fun job either.
BNaylor
03-07-2006, 06:17 AM
There is an access panel in the trunk, so you don't have to drop the tank, Doing a fuel pump isn't as hard on these cars as most, but still not a fun job either.
Biggest problem is getting the fuel and vacuum lines disconnected without beaking plastic (tight fit) and then the big c-clip removed. After that snaking the pod up and out. All down hill after that. BTDT. :biggrin:
Biggest problem is getting the fuel and vacuum lines disconnected without beaking plastic (tight fit) and then the big c-clip removed. After that snaking the pod up and out. All down hill after that. BTDT. :biggrin:
m2m2004
03-07-2006, 09:56 AM
I have the same problem with mine and I just reset the odometer every fill-up and make sure I fill up again around 360-375 miles. I don't want to sink too much into a car with this many miles on it.
On the other hand, my girlfriend paid a garage $400 to fix her Jimmy. And she didn't get kissed either.
I all so had this problem (1997 SE 3.8).....it would read 1/2 full, but was empty. I also reset trip odometer after filling up. Only problem i had was when I didnt remember to reset it, or didnt have the $$ to fill it up. (know way of knowing how much gas i had.
On the other hand, my girlfriend paid a garage $400 to fix her Jimmy. And she didn't get kissed either.
I all so had this problem (1997 SE 3.8).....it would read 1/2 full, but was empty. I also reset trip odometer after filling up. Only problem i had was when I didnt remember to reset it, or didnt have the $$ to fill it up. (know way of knowing how much gas i had.
BNaylor
03-07-2006, 10:22 AM
The fix could be a lot cheaper than most think as long as you have the time, willpower and incentive to correct the problem. Running with a wacky fuel gauge reading would drive me up the wall.
On the float sensor is an electrical wiper arm contact. It contacts a coil and varies resistance causing a voltage drop or change to the IP fuel gauge. Basically, it is an exposed variable resistor. Although I replaced the one shown below, I cleaned the exposed contacts with electrical contact cleaner, lightly sanded the coil with very fine grit sandpaper, resoldered the purple wire contacts and then starting getting proper readings with an ohmmeter. I don't known if I would ever use it again but it appears to be good now so I keep it for a spare. It used to crap out when the float was at the 1/8 fuel mark.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelsensor.jpg
On the float sensor is an electrical wiper arm contact. It contacts a coil and varies resistance causing a voltage drop or change to the IP fuel gauge. Basically, it is an exposed variable resistor. Although I replaced the one shown below, I cleaned the exposed contacts with electrical contact cleaner, lightly sanded the coil with very fine grit sandpaper, resoldered the purple wire contacts and then starting getting proper readings with an ohmmeter. I don't known if I would ever use it again but it appears to be good now so I keep it for a spare. It used to crap out when the float was at the 1/8 fuel mark.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelsensor.jpg
wlkjr
03-07-2006, 12:43 PM
I"ve always reset my odometer every time I fill up which is about twice a week, so that is no biggie for me. That is a more accurate way to tell how much I have left anyway.
richtazz
03-08-2006, 04:21 PM
I agree Bob, a whacked out fuel guage would make me nuts.
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