351

ok im getting a 351, and putting it in my 1990 mustang. right now it comes with a stock cam shaft heres the engine http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8043722945&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1

first is that hp right and if i got a different cam how much hp would i see about. and witch cam shaft whould be good for this engine. thanks again.

Don't waist your time or money on that motor. Buy something decent atleast. Even a stock bottom end roller 351w block out of a '96 or slightly older truck/van would be better than that. The cheapest way I see that would even make the swap worth your fooling with would be to find a solid stock short block. Get a set of $1000 - $1,250 Edelbrock RPM or Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, a Performer RPM Air-Gap or Vic Jr. intake, and a Holley 650dp. Slide in a Trick Flow stage 1 cam and be done. Say you buy a short block (block, crank, rods, pistons) from a junkyard for cheap. Go thrue it and check everything, maybe even get the crank turned, rods polished, block bored .030, and a set of Speed Pro pistons... you will probably only have about $2000 in it including machine work and new parts. Then you add the cam, carb, intake, & heads and your up to about $4000 for a stout daily driver street motor. The motor in your add is a waiste of time. You will come out cheaper in the long run if you steer clear of cheap cheap cheap motors. I'm not saying you cant do it at all unless you have a badass motor, but just saying that unless you build a windsor, you would come out cheaper and making more power by throwing a cam, heads, intake, and carb on your 5.0 short block.

After you ship a $2200 dollar motor you will probably have atleast $2500 in it. Not to mention that motor is not making very good power at all. You add the alt, water pump, p/s, a/c, ect whatever your going to run on it, the factor in the power loss thrue the trans your making stock 5.0 power. I say either spend the cash and build the 351w you want, or take the $2500 you could sink into a heavier motor that would gain you nothing, and put a sweet top end on your 302.

ok thanks.

what about this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-468-HP-351-Windsor-Engine-Motor-w-TFS-Heads_W0QQitemZ8043376046QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem
this one looks nice, of course get it only .30 borded, and what about the cam is that a good cam or what it ses i can get a different one for no charge, and is that hp ratening right thanks.

I dont like the pistons, but the rest of it is decent. I say that power is a little overrated. But after you factor in accessories & drivetrain you may see 300rwhp out of it. Thats a conservitive guess considering the power they advertise to be accurate or slightly lower.

If you get that one I'd suggest a Vic Jr intake and 650dp.

this guy i was talking to gave me these specs on a nother engine
393W engine - racing 490 hp* 480 ft lbs tq**
block--------------------351w bored .030 blueprinted
crank--------------------392 w 3.85 stroke std size balanced
rods---------------------forged "I" beam balanced
pistons-----------------KB forged racing .030 flycut for 2.02 V
rings---------------------power flex moly .030
bearings----------------clevite 77 .010
gaskets-----------------fel- pro
bolts----------------------arp rod bolts
oil pump-----------------melling M-68 hv
heads--------------------PBM strike force aluminum 210 cc intake
valves--------------------2.05/1.60 stainless
camshaft----------------PBM/crane 300/310 flat tappet cam
lifters---------------------hydraulic
timing chain------------cloyes double roller
pushrods----------------hardened
rockers------------------roller tip magnum

* hp is checked on desktop dyno and is not guaranteed


what do you think about this setup, also i can get a different cam if i want do you think the cam on the second engine and this one are good or can i get more power you think if i get a different one.

I notice he's installed a high volume pump on the 393. Did he also install an extra capacity oil pan? This is a must!

he did not say, but yeah i know it is.

I'm just not a fan of Keith Black pistons, at all...

Havent seen a flow chart on the heads you listed but 210cc intake runners are pretty darn large. Heads with ports that large sure could use alot more cam, if they flow what they should.

If you want a reliable crate 351w I would suggest maybe looking into the Edelbrock crate engines.

BTW, the intake runners on my heads are 170cc and I'm pushing about 625-650hp at the flywheel.

so what kind of cam do you suggest, i asked the guy and he said the cam he has will be 500 dollers more, now ive never seen cam for 500 but i thought that was expensive, he did not give me the specs or any thing.

We have talked cams before!

Get a off the shelf cam in the 520/225 range with a lobe sep of 110-114 for a good street cam, or go a little bigger. Don't get sucked into the custom cam crap. Hell the F cam with 1.7s are what I am going to run. 228/228 550/550 114. Wider the lobe sep better street, more vac for brakes.

ok thanks.

i asked him for specs on the cam and this is what he gave me

manf adv dur .050 dur lift type price inc hp tq

PBM 280/290 adv 214/224 @ .050 .472/.496 - flat hyd - 0 463 hp 472 tq
PBM 290/300 adv 224/234 @ .050 .496/.520 - flat hyd - 0 483 hp 465 tq
PBM 292/292 adv 230/230 @ .050 .512/.512 - flat hyd - 0 484 hp 455 tq
PBM 300/310 adv 234/244 @ .050 .520/.544 - flat hyd - 0 489 hp 462 tq
PBM 314/314 adv 254/254 @ .050 .520/.544 - flat solid - + $200 518 hp 447 tq
COMP 290/290 adv 230/230 @ .050 .544/.544 - rol hyd - + $500 539 hp 509 tq
COMP 304/304 adv 244/244 @ .050 .576/.576 - rol hyd - + $500 551 hp 488 tq
COMP 286/292 adv 248/254 ?? .050 .614/.621 - rol solid - + $700 * 609 hp 468 tq
COMP 292/298 adv 254/260 ?? .050 .621/.627 - rol solid - + $700 * 639 hp 462 tq

Grab a Summit, and buy one from them.

Have we not gone over this? I am sure we have. Look at the old thread.