paint

Ok, so i think i am going to get my car painted first instead of doing the engine swap. My car is a dark green color, and it is chiping on the back spoiler and it is almost like the car don't have a clear coat any more. It don't have a shine to it, it was buffed be for i bought it and it still don't have a shine. Well any ways i don't like the green to much any ways so i am going to have it painted black. I was wonder how much does a normal paint job cost? I don't want door jams painted i just want you know the car painted. There will be no dints to be pulled, all they have to do it sand and paint it. How much do you think this will run to get done? I don't want to pay to much. I don't want a show car paint either, i just want someting that looks good and the paint will stick and not peel.

Ah...you want a sheib...http://www.earlscheib.com
A little over $700...hopefully there is one near you...

they have cheaper packages too, but if I get a paint job from them(which I intend to this summer) I want the better package...lol

it this like maaco or something? And there is not one of these places you just said any where near me,lol

sorry...and yes, kinda...its a paint shop that focuses more on painting cars rather than body work...so they just paint...not all of us need a show paint job right.lol
Just look through the yellow pages and see what is close to you

what do you guys think abotu maaco? if i pay more like close to a grand do you think it will be a good paint job?

what do you guys think abotu maaco? if i pay more like close to a grand do you think it will be a good paint job?
No, spending more with Maaco won't always get you a better paint job.
Do this instead. Remove the door handles, body molding, mirrors,headlights, tail lights, door locks and any other trim that you can. Buy an electric D/A sander (Walmart has one from Skil) and a bunch of 150-180 paper and completely sand the car yourself. Start by washing it in Tide and water, rinse throughly then sand. You don't have to go to bare metal, just get the factory clear off along with any flaknig paint. Get it all sanded nice and smooth, wash again in Tide and water, rinse throughly. Take it to Maaco and have them do the basic base coat/clear coat paint job on it. when painting a car 95% of the final result depends on the prep and 95% of the cost is in the prep too. Maaco doesn't do prep and doesn't mask off much more than the windows. Once you get it to Maaco, coat the wheels and tires in petrolium jelly (not a thick coat, just enough to make them slick). This way paint overspray won't sitck to them.

will they prep it if i ask them to ?

will they prep it if i ask them to ?
They may say they will and you won't know if they did or not until the paint is a couple years old.
A wise man once said; "If you want something done right, do it yourself".
When I painted my car It took a day to remove all of the removable parts (ground effects, nose & tail bumper covers too) and another day to sand the car down. Very little time invested for a big return on finsih quality.

no matter who paints it, i am going to sand it my self so i know it is done right and to save some money. Do you guys think black will look good with peral mixed in with it?

No.. pearl looks wrong on anything, just get it straight black

ok, i saw a 92 rs camaro yesterday all black with chrome rimd exhaust and black windows, it looked so bad, it was excetly what i am going to do with mine.

oh ya, by the way, how hard is it to fix spyder webbing on the front bumper? mine is doing it bad, do i just sand over it and who ever paints it fixes it or is it something i can fix?

Spider webbing? if its onto the paint, when you're sanding it, it'll come off with everything else.

sweet, because it looks like there is a huge amount of clear coat on the front end nose and it is comming off like spyder web. So i think it will come off when i sand it.

Ofcourse it will.. its just paint, and you're taking it off..

Hey guys ive wanted pretty bad to change my car color to black...but i heard it is like impossible. I live in Miami, FL. Does anyone know any shops that can do it(Very well). Or anyone have experience in the field.
Basically i want it all black except engine bay i understand that is completely impossible...

A slight hijack, has anyone here painted their engine bay with the engine in? If so, how did it go, and if not, opinions?
And what about door sills?

EDIT: Holy crap there is one of those Earl Scheib places like three minutes from me. Be handy to know once I get my maro.

EDIT: Holy crap there is one of those Earl Scheib places like three minutes from me. Be handy to know once I get my maro.

Ive heard great things about Earl Scheib lately...they have make a lot of changes over the last few years that has greatly improved the quality of their work...I cant wait till this summer...I will have it painted in the origional metalic light blue:grinyes: Cant wait:rofl:

ok, i have made up my mind of what i am going to do. I am going to waite till this summer, and i am going to sand the whole car down and take all the trim off, then i am going to take it to "sigh" Maaco, i am getting there $600 with me preping it. My car now it is like it don't have a clear coat, so i am going to take the time and sand the whole car all the way down and then take it to them, that way i know it will not chip. They also have a 4 year warrenty on the paint, and it has pollyurathin in it. So it should look good. And i had one question, what grid shold i use to sand it?

ok, i have made up my mind of what i am going to do. I am going to waite till this summer, and i am going to sand the whole car down and take all the trim off, then i am going to take it to "sigh" Maaco, i am getting there $600 with me preping it. My car now it is like it don't have a clear coat, so i am going to take the time and sand the whole car all the way down and then take it to them, that way i know it will not chip. They also have a 4 year warrenty on the paint, and it has pollyurathin in it. So it should look good. And i had one question, what grid shold i use to sand it?
I personnally would let them prep it........because if it turned out like crap .....the paint job would too.
Let them do it..
Maaco is pretty good by the way

I have a quick question for you mallet. When you say take off the trim, do you mean EVERYTHING? Like badges and all? Also, how do I get the car the one mile journey after I prep it?

Also, give me some colors that I could do. I too am thinking of doing this either spring break or summer. All I need now is to find a 93-97 SS hood.

Maaco is pretty good by the way

You're like the first person ive heard say this.. ive always heard bad stuff about em like getting paint onto the backlights.

i just here people say there prep sucks, that is why i was going to prep it. So what do you guys think? And i had aanother question, if i prep it and take off all the trim and locks and crap, how will i drive it to the place? would i have to have it towed there?

And i had aanother question, if i prep it and take off all the trim and locks and crap, how will i drive it to the place? would i have to have it towed there?
Leave the tail lights held in place by 2 of those plastic wingnuts so you can remove them quickly when you get there. Take the bulbs and cover them in plastic sandwich bags held on with rubberbands once you get the lights off.
Don't forget to remove the front side marker lights too. and take the bulbs out of the courtesy lights (incase they leave a door open for a long time.)
Roll the windows up. take a piece of 3/16" metal rod and bend a 90 on one end 2" long. Slide it down in the door and slip the 2" in where the outer door handle rod went. Now tape the rod to the window. To open the door from outside you just push down on the rod and it will unlatch the door.
Also, remove the side window's outer sweeps (outer weather strip).

My car now it is like it don't have a clear coat, so i am going to take the time and sand the whole car all the way down and then take it to them, that way i know it will not chip. They also have a 4 year warrenty on the paint, and it has pollyurathin in it. So it should look good. And i had one question, what grid shold i use to sand it?

Something to think about here - If you are planning to take it all the way down to metal, you will need to be able to re-primer the bare metal or else it will cause surface tarnish rust to form from even just damp air if left un primed. (will kind of look like tarnish on silverware) this could cause adhesion problems down the road.

If you are taking it down to bare metal - you can use 180 grit paper
then prime with an etching primer like variprime.
block sand with 220 grit then put down a good heavy coat of fill & Sand primer. Then block sand with a minimum of 320 grit

If you are just going to bust the clear coat and leave the base color & e-coat primer, -
you can just use 220 grit in a d/a sander , then prime with fill & sand and block with 320.

You need to pay attention to what you are doing on the final block sanding - Use nothing coarser than 320 & remove all the imperfections and trash or else when the paint cures out over the course of the following year you are going to see all of the junk & sand scratches under the paint you left behind and its going to look like hell. (especially since you are going with a dark color - Every little thing will show up like a billboard)

I wish i could still paint - had to give it up :frown: because of all the chemicals and reducers. I have adverse reactions to all of that stuff, even when i was fully suited up with respirator and all .
I have to now rely on someone else to do my painting, and as we speak my car is back in the shop being repainted "again" because the body shop forgot to do the final fine block sanding step on the passenger side door, fender and sail panel and the sanding scratches were showing thru under the paint. A very costly mistake for them ,but "they" did it and are fixing the problem.
Its really sad that a show class paint job was ruined becuse of a missed step that would have only taken 20 - 30 minutes of time to do.
They say education is expensive, but look what ignorance can cost!

With all of that said- & you doing the prep work yourself, you may be leaving yourself wide open for warranty denial should a problem arise. They can use that as a loophole and say that the paint failed due to improper prep. Then its back to you & you loose. (they will try anything and everything to get out of a warranty claim) Are you willing to take that risk? Might be better in the long run to let Maaco do the prep. Or at least get it in writing that they will still honor their warranty no matter what.

ok, i see your giys point, i am just going to do the one dent i have and take it out, and rix the little rust starting to appear on myback wheel well. And then sand down my back hatch where the paint is chiping and primer it, and give it to them and have them do it so if it chips it is there problem.