Clutch Problem

I hope I'm not being a pest, not sure how a forum works. Do I post each individual problem or stay on the same thread.
This is the truck: 1989, 196,000 miles,22re,4x4,single cab.

1st problem is the clutch. only moves with 4 wheel high or low lever engaged, when you put it in 2 wheel drive, you can go through all the gears with out putting in the clutch

I blead the clutch..no bubbles. I started the truck.. the clutch felt great. Truck goes into gear nice. as soon as I move it, it engages nice, but it wants to keep moving..even with the clutch in. after you force it out of gear.. it won't go back into gear with out pumping the clutch 4 or 5 times, other wise it grinds. I'm assuming either the clutch master cylinder or the release cylinder is bad. Which would be the first to replace. any suggestions??

By the way, here's a link to see a few more pics of the "project truck" let me know what you think
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?Uc=dmcp3g9.7ax2n3yx&Uy=-f6gdpu&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&mode=fromshare&conn_speed=1

Since you have to pump the pedal to build up pressure, I would suspect the clutch master. Are you losing any fluid?
Check to see if the clutch fork is traveling enough. Worn bushings will prevent the fork from traveling an appropriate distance.
Don't rule out an internally deteriorating flex line. Deteriorating flex line can limit the amount of pressure the clutch slave cylinder gets from the clutch master.

Thanks for the reply. I replaced the slave cylinder. I'm assuming the clutch fork is what contacts the push rod on the slave cylinder( the book doesn't show that). Does the spring pressure along with the hydraulic pressure of the slave cylinder push rod put tension against the clutch fork?:screwy:
After refilling the reservoir on the clutch master, I had to manually push the clutch fork against the push rod to get fluid into the slave cylinder. Pushing the clutch pedal did not move the fork till after the above. Once there was pressure from the push rod on the fork, the clutch pedal worked the fork OK. How far is the fork supposed to move?
Also, while unbolting the old slave cylinder, the bracket that is supposed to hold the flex line was not bolted to the transmission housing like it was supposed to:mad: (bolt is missing.. any idea what size??) If the flex-line is not bolted down.. would that cause the problem? I don't really think the old slave cylinder was bad..nothing looked worn, just the spring felt a little weaker than the new one.
I went through the same procedure as the first post in this thread, everything was the same:crying:
I don't really want to mess with the clutch master cylinder, but unless the flex hose is the problem, I guess thats my next project!:frown:

Sounds like the clutch master has an internal leak.
Due to its age (I'm assuming it's oringinal) I would replace the flexline. Old flexlines will slightly balloon absorbing some of the hydraulic energy required to operate the clutch.
Since the clutch fork moves enough when you pump the clutch pedal multiple times, I would say that the clutch fork is ok. The next time you replace the clutch, check the pivot points on the fork to make sure they are not oblong.
Other than being metric, I can't tell you what size bolt holds the bracket for the flexline.
What usually goes wrong with a slave cylinder is the bore gets out of round or the seals have deteriorated and leak.

From what you've said about the issue, it doesn't sound like you needed to replace the slave cylinder. The slave is self adjusting, and usually if it's not leaking, it doesn't need to be replaced. The master however, can be sneaky. A lot of times they start leaking into the cab, so I would recommend checking underneath your carpet to see if there's any fluid down there. The master is really not that bad to replace. The only hard part is fishing underneath the dash to release it from the pedal. Also, if you do replace the master, you will probably have to adjust the pedal throw on the new cylinder. Make sure you do that or you could have the same type of problems with grinding going into gear because of lack of cylinder throw.

Thanks for all the in-put, you "guys" were right on the money. I opted out on the flex-line.. dealer only item, $26 bucks for maybe 8 inches of hose.. no brackets, just hose and fittings.:shakehead
The carpet was so bad around the pedals, I couldn't tell if it was leaking.. so I just bought the new clutch master cylinder $42.99 . I wish the rest of the repairs could be as easy as replacing the clutch master cylinder.. but I know better. AS soon as I bled the clutch, it worked like a champ!! Thanks again for your help. I'll post a new thread for the next task .

Just FYI, the bolt is most likely a M8x1.25 in fact I just did a lot of work on my truck, and I replaced quite a few bolts. They were all m8x1.25 or m10x1.25 of various lengths. The tranny to block and headbolts are m12x1.25 which are kind of hard to find. I just thought that would be nice to know.

Thanks for the info. The head bolts will probably be the next job to tackle after I finish the brakes.

Is there something wrong with the motor? If not, leave the head bolts alone.