Lengthening O2 sensor wire?

Hello Again,
I did the search for this and didn't find anything so...So don't shoot me if I am wrong.

Start with the facts: 88 crx si w/D16a6
DC Sports header 4 2 1 w/ two bungs for O2s

I installed the O2 sensor in the top bung close to where it was in it's orig position. Now it is reading off only one cylinder #4

Now I have heard two things,
1. O2 sensor will not heat up enough in the bung in the collector, Is this true?
2. The length of wire will distort the signal from the O2, Is this true?

Has anyone tried this? And what were your results?
SH

Hello Again,
I did the search for this and didn't find anything so...So don't shoot me if I am wrong.

Start with the facts: 88 crx si w/D16a6
DC Sports header 4 2 1 w/ two bungs for O2s

I installed the O2 sensor in the top bung close to where it was in it's orig position. Now it is reading off only one cylinder #4

Now I have heard two things,
1. O2 sensor will not heat up enough in the bung in the collector, Is this true?
2. The length of wire will distort the signal from the O2, Is this true?

Has anyone tried this? And what were your results?
SH
Come on someone has to have done this before. !!

What if I say Please? Please!

I had to lengthen the second o2 sensor when i installed the header on my d16 and it seemed to work allright. You have to make sure that you saughter(or however the fuck you spell it) the wire right and that it is in there nice and tight. I brought my car to get tuned to the new exhaust when i installed it also. Hope i helped

I would be very careful lengthning the O2 sensor signal wire. It works with voltage, and the range is anywhere from .2 to .7 volt. Depending on the conductance of the wire and the length, you can actually drop that kind of voltage even with 1 or 2 ft of wire. A buddy of mine had some problems when he lengthend the wire because he made a custom exhaust with the hole further down the pipe. I am sure you can do it, but I would be careful of choosing the type of wire being used. Also you should tune it as atariz says.

You can get prefabbed o2 extensions. They are like $15 at random performance shops. Call and ask.

It's a piece of cake. You don't even have to solder but you better make damn sure your wire is tightly connected (not using butt connectors) because it will throw a code real fast. And about the heating up part. As soon as you start your car it's going to work. If you dog your car right after you start it, the car will run like shit anyway. But assuming you let your car warm up for at least 90 seconds (if tuned right) then it'll be fine. BTW, when you say you have 2 bung holes do you mean the header now has an open hole or that the hole is just in a different place? My DC header has the hole down near the collector. Anyway, I ran my set up with the code throwing forever because I just thought it was fucked. But it turned out, the supposed tightly spliced wire to A/F gauge wasn't working out so good. BTW, if you do use an A/F guage (OBD0 is merely a light show anyway) I suggest running it as close to the ECU pinout as possible.

It's a piece of cake. You don't even have to solder but you better make damn sure your wire is tightly connected (not using butt connectors) because it will throw a code real fast. And about the heating up part. As soon as you start your car it's going to work. If you dog your car right after you start it, the car will run like shit anyway. But assuming you let your car warm up for at least 90 seconds (if tuned right) then it'll be fine. BTW, when you say you have 2 bung holes do you mean the header now has an open hole or that the hole is just in a different place? My DC header has the hole down near the collector. Anyway, I ran my set up with the code throwing forever because I just thought it was fucked. But it turned out, the supposed tightly spliced wire to A/F gauge wasn't working out so good. BTW, if you do use an A/F guage (OBD0 is merely a light show anyway) I suggest running it as close to the ECU pinout as possible.
Thank you all!!!

For Turtle, It came with two holes and I have the bottom one by the collector plugged with the supplied plug. I don't have an A/F I check it while on a dyno via a DVOM.
For atariz it's "solder" and I was going to use silver solder.
For hxgaser It's .1v to .9v But you are right the length of wire will add additional resistance along with the splice.

It just hasn't been right since the header install. The O2 reading's are correct. But when driving it feels like it is rich with a boggy miss, plus the gas mileage is lower too. And I am getting a coating of black in my exhaust. And my cat stinks after a good run.
And it's not timing, all is new there. 18btdc. Just smogged it and passed no problem. 38 hc 0.0 co 65 nox at 25mph. done myself.

Thanks again, I am doing it over the weekend I'll let you know.

SH

Thank you all!!!

For Turtle, It came with two holes and I have the bottom one by the collector plugged with the supplied plug. I don't have an A/F I check it while on a dyno via a DVOM.
For atariz it's "solder" and I was going to use silver solder.
For hxgaser It's .1v to .9v But you are right the length of wire will add additional resistance along with the splice.

It just hasn't been right since the header install. The O2 reading's are correct. But when driving it feels like it is rich with a boggy miss, plus the gas mileage is lower too. And I am getting a coating of black in my exhaust. And my cat stinks after a good run.
And it's not timing, all is new there. 18btdc. Just smogged it and passed no problem. 38 hc 0.0 co 65 nox at 25mph. done myself.

Thanks again, I am doing it over the weekend I'll let you know.

SH

Well it is done with an 12" piece of wire. Seems to run better too.

Just to let you all know...
SH