99 Grand Prix.....HELP!

Ok...so there have been ongoing issues with my latest purchase! I bought the car in October...the check engine light has came on repeatedly for no apparent reason and then shut itself off since I bought it??? Also...when I stay at a consistent 60mph the ABS and traction light are coming on.

Next problem...within the last week I have noticed that when I turn right I have a ticking noise on the front passenger side???

AND...I cant find a passenger wiper arm for this car anywhere....


Can ANYONE help me with ANY of this???? PLEASE!!!!!!

Ok I'll admit...Im a semi "car dumb" woman.....

First of all, Welcome to the Forums. We don't discriminate against the fairer sex here, so the semi "car dumb" woman comment will be stricken from the record :lol: . The ABS light and ticking sound are classic front hub bearing symptoms. The ABS wheel speed sensor is part of the hub bearing, so when the hubs start to go bad, they will trip the ABS and usually the Trac-off lights. The check engine light will require you to have the car scanned, as all OBDII computers need a scan tool to retrieve the codes. If you have an Advance Auto or Auto-Zone in your area, they will scan it for free for you. Have them make a print-out and post the results here. Their scan tools are not ABS capable though, so to narrow down which hub is bad, you'll have to take the car to a garage with an ABS capable scanner( although the ticking coming from the passenger side kinda points the finger at that hub). The right hand wiper arm is GM part #10300573, and dealer retail is only $28.

The ABS light and ticking sound are classic front hub bearing symptoms. The ABS wheel speed sensor is part of the hub bearing, so when the hubs start to go bad, they will trip the ABS and usually the Trac-off lights.

What Rich is referring to is this in the pics concerning the Hub/Bearing problem

Grand Prix hub front & rear shot:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/bearing01.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/bearing02.jpg

ack......Is this gonna break the bank???

The hubs run about $120-$160 depending on what brand you buy. Avoid Chinese made hubs, as they are extremely problematic. Stick with AC-Delco, they include new mount bolts.

Ok next dumb question...I have to make a trip this weekend is it safe to drive?

As long as it isn't howling constantly, you should be fine.

No howling yet....just the annoying ticking when I turn right

So - car is currently in the shop - they attempted to make the noise go away yesterday by replacing the wheel barring and said the axle was fine? Noise is still there - whenever you turn right

Today they're suggestion I change the drive shaft????

Also.....they say it needs a tranny flush - how much does this usually run?

So - car is currently in the shop - they attempted to make the noise go away yesterday by replacing the wheel barring and said the axle was fine? Noise is still there - whenever you turn right

Today they're suggestion I change the drive shaft????

Also.....they say it needs a tranny flush - how much does this usually run?

How many miles are on your GP?

A tranny flush is not recommended if you have over a certain mileage on the car.

I agree with Bob, do not do a tranny flush if your mileage is over 70k. There are multiple posts on this forum where we discuss the disadvantages of trans flushes. Do a pan drop, filter change, and replace only the fluid that drained from the pan. Is the noise the same exact noise, or a similar noise? If they used an impact wrench while installing the hub, they could have ruined the new hub. What brand hub did you buy( the cheap ones are normally junk right out of the box)?

Even 70K miles could be too high. I wouldn't do a flush whether full power or fluid exchange if it has over 50K miles.

Like Rich said the pan drop will suffice. Better safe than sorry later.

Its got 210,000 miles on it! They said the fluid is really bad in it???

Dont know what brand hub they attempted to replace it with?? Just wondering if a drive shaft would make the sound?

Its got 210,000 miles on it! They said the fluid is really bad in it???

Get a can of Seafoam tranny additive. Put it in and run it for about one tankful of gas. Then just do a pan drop. You will need approximately 7.5 quarts of Dextron III ATF. I recommend using the AC Delco screen filter TF304. Use good quality ATF like Castrol. Do not use synthetic ATF.

You can re-use the oil pan gasket.

BTW - The Seafoam additive goes into the tranny not gas tank.

If the fluid is so bad that it "needs" to be flushed, the trans is already damaged and a flush will not help. I would almost guarantee that if they do the flush, you'll need a trans in less than 15k.

If the fluid is so bad that it "needs" to be flushed, the trans is already damaged and a flush will not help. I would almost guarantee that if they do the flush, you'll need a trans in less than 15k.

:werd:

argh! Now they're saying that the transmission is causing the noise when I turn right????? Is this possible?

I know that a bad CV joint will make a wheel click and pop when you turn. Did they replace both wheel hubs?

They replaced both hubs....I just had someone else suggest the CV joint - it makes a kind of ticking pop pop pop noise ONLY when it turns right....


Im not sure if Im just a dumb girl - but transmission????

If it only does it while turning in one direction, it's not a transmission. The only thing that would click in the trans while turning is the differential, and that would do it while turning in either direction. A CV axle will pop while turning if the outer CV joint is bad, but it's a loud hollow sounding noise.

This Is Like A Clunking Tinging Kinda Noise............................

God Im So Car Dumb

Could be the Diff that is on the passenger side. Did they replace the axle on that side? If your trans has over 200K on it and the fuild is dark and smells bad its probably time for a overhaul. Dont over look the tires for creating a howl. I would do a pan drop and see whats in there that will tell you all you need to know if they think the trans is bad.

How much is a new transmission going to run me?

Some more questions for you to ask them, how did they install the axle nut? IF they say with an impact wrench, there is the problem. If they say by hand, ask them what torque value they tightened it to. Once they give you the torque spec, ask to see the box that the hub bearings came in. If the torque they give you doesn't match the torque in the box, they screwed it up. The reason I say this is that many replacement hubs require a different torque value than the OEM, and therefore require a different torque value than a repair manual or program like All-Data will suggest. That is why they put the new torque value on or in the box. "Mechanics" have a bad habit of not reading instructions.

I just thought I would update all of you on the progress with the car.

Both wheel bearings were changed at the first mechanic and the CV Shaft- after some issues with them wanting to pick and chose parts to change to try and "figure out where the noise was coming from" I left work early - and in their hurry to get the VERY ANGRY woman out of their shop - left both wheel bearings on the car for me. ($85 service fee charged)

The car was transported to another mechanic who did verify the hubs are in good working order but that I need a new transmission - Hoping to have the car back on Wednesday to the tune of $1200 and 7+ days without my baby!

Okay - Transmission - cv shaft - hubs replaced ---- TICKING NOISE STILL THERE??? ANY IDEAS???? ANYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Okay - Transmission - cv shaft - hubs replaced ---- TICKING NOISE STILL THERE??? ANY IDEAS???? ANYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Can you describe the noise any better? I saw it was a ticking sound and then another post said clunking. What side is it most audible on, passenger side or driver's? Is there a fixed frequency or rate to the sound or is it random or unsynchronized? How much do you have to turn the steering to get it?

Its more of a clunking....coming from front passenger....anytime I turn the corner or make a sharper right turn and its a synchronized sound

Its more of a clunking....coming from front passenger....anytime I turn the corner or make a sharper right turn and its a synchronized sound.

When it clunks do you feel it in the steering wheel as feedback?

IMO a clunking sound seems more suspension and steering related. Do you have the original struts? Bad upper strut mounts can clunk. Also worn out lower control arm bushings, ball joint and tie rods. Worn out cushions on the strut coil springs can make the coil spring give a clunking sound because it is under stress during right and left turns.

Do you get any sounds when you get on the gas hard from a standstill or during sudden braking? Or going over rough roads?

Really hard to say but hopefully we can help you narrow it down.

I second what Bob said. It sounds like a strut or control arm bushing binding causing the clunk. I didn't think it was a transmission because the only thing that would clunk in the trans while turning is the differential, so it would clunk in either direction.

I second what Bob said. It sounds like a strut or control arm bushing binding causing the clunk. I didn't think it was a transmission because the only thing that would clunk in the trans while turning is the differential, so it would clunk in either direction.

Well hopefully we can help this lady out. The problem is she does not appear to be capable of DIY work like most of us so even troubleshooting will be very difficult. So she will be at the mercy of some mechanic or dealer even if we do eventually help her pinpoint the problem.

Well guys ya really got to feel bad for this women you are trying and this is a puzzler. Here`s a thought How about if this lady takes a spin up north to Flint and lets Rich Have a test run with the car. They can PM each other and set up a location ,go from there. Like you have to wonder is this car in that bad of shape ,I doubt it but with all the new stuff in it and more added everyday ,man she`ll have to run it for awhile to get her money out of it. Just my two cents ,Keep up the good work Guys

Mine has a strange bumping noise in the front end also but I've been living with it for the last 6 or 7 years. Nothing has broken and it has it hasn't gotten any worse so I just ignore it.
My gf has a Jimmy with a bumping noise it that we have looked for for almost a year. Some things are better to just learn to live with.

Ok - they have now had a 20 year mechanic from Pontiac look at it who recommends that I drive it until something actually breaks *smacks head on table*

Ok - they have now had a 20 year mechanic from Pontiac look at it who recommends that I drive it until something actually breaks *smacks head on table*
Unfortunately, that's the approach I've been taking. Sometimes noises are very difficult to pinpoint.

First off... It's not the Hub bearing... I had that problem awhile ago and you hear a weird noise coming from the front going about 30-35-40 and up. Those are also a bitch to replace, doing it myself cost me 500...

It sounds like the drive shaft is going on the car, my friend's made the same sound while turning. The part can be a pretty penny, not too shabby. As long as you got a good mech they won't overcharge you for installation.

Don't go to a dealer for your instalations.

Idk so much about the tranny at 210000 but would anyone think a BG flush would be bad?

First off... It's not the Hub bearing... I had that problem awhile ago and you hear a weird noise coming from the front going about 30-35-40 and up. Those are also a bitch to replace, doing it myself cost me 500...

It sounds like the drive shaft is going on the car, my friend's made the same sound while turning. The part can be a pretty penny, not too shabby. As long as you got a good mech they won't overcharge you for installation.

Don't go to a dealer for your instalations.

Idk so much about the tranny at 210000 but would anyone think a BG flush would be bad?

If you review her prior posts on corrective action taken to date, I believe she had the axle half shaft and/or CV joints replaced. Same problem.

Any flush at that mileage would be bad. I would not recommend it.

If you review her prior posts on corrective action taken to date, I believe she had the axle half shaft and/or CV joints replaced. Same problem.

Any flush at that mileage would be bad. I would not recommend it.

Although changing the wheel hubs was challenging, it wasn't that bad of a job. Only costs me about $320 using the AC Delcos that I got from Rich for great deal. I had a transmission service done on mine right around 200,000 and I was skeptical that it might have a negative reaction. I don't know if they did a flush but they did change the filter and the fluid. Luckily I did not have any issues with it after that.
If a noise or bumping is intermittent I don't fret over it much. If it is constant, then I seek out the source because it will usually fail shortly.

I agree with Bob on the trans flush. Do a search on this forum regarding trans flushes and the consensus you'll see is flushes are BAD!!!
As far as the "pontiac guy", is he going to pay your insurance deductible and medical bills when you dirve it until it breaks and get in an accident? That is the stupidest advice from a "parts swapper monkey" I've ever heard. If you can't isolate the noise, telling someone to drive it until it gets worse, or to take it somewhere else is one thing, but "drive it until it breaks", that's just plain stupid.

I agree with Bob on the trans flush. Do a search on this forum regarding trans flushes and the consensus you'll see is flushes are BAD!!!
As far as the "pontiac guy", is he going to pay your insurance deductible and medical bills when you dirve it until it breaks and get in an accident? That is the stupidest advice from a "parts swapper monkey" I've ever heard. If you can't isolate the noise, telling someone to drive it until it gets worse, or to take it somewhere else is one thing, but "drive it until it breaks", that's just plain stupid.

Yes, Rich I agree 100%. I am not going to re-visit or debate the issue of flushes whether fluid exchange or full power, etc. We have debated that issue over and over in this forum and the many other "W" body forums. The horror stories are abound. Some people had luck, however, the majority had major repair bills $$$$ shortly thereafter. My position will always be consistent just like yours.....no flush pan drop, ATF and screen filter only.

On the mechanic issue...let me correct myself. She is subject to the whims and inexperience of a 20 year mechanic. :shakehead

On suspension and steering system noise, if it is out of the ordinary then there is something wrong and corrective action should be taken. Any clunking would drive me up a wall and I would have torn everything apart to get down to the bottom of it. As the old saying goes: "Familiarity breeds contempt".

Can you hear anything unusual when you are stopped and you rock the steering wheel back and forth?

Might be worth the drive over to Flint and get a good opinion from Rich. Actually hearing the noise would be better.

First I want to say YAY! The car is fixed and running fine - except for the fact that Im going thru passenger wiper arms like they're going out of style and cant find replacements anywhere?????


The noise - after HOURS as you all know - actually TWO weeks -
*drum roll PLEASE *
the bendix on the starter was popping out and sticking -------

*Also I did get a pan drip on the tranny and a new filter*


Oh and the 20 year mechanic who suggested I drove it until something actually broke -- I asked him if he was willing to pay to replace the car and or the hospital bills/funeral expenses ........*GRIN*


THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOO MUCH TO EVERYONE!!!!!

1st of all, good for you on calling Mr 20 yrs on his suggestion. I'd have loved to see the look on his face. On the wiper arm issue, what is happening? Is the arm actually breaking or is it slipping on the wiper transmission shaft that sticks out of the cowl?

Well we've replaced it twice now because it refuses to move and then sometimes will just randomly make it half way across the windshield and back down.....when we replaced the last one the threading was gone on the screw....

It's probably time to replace the wiper transmission. The shaft is stripped and not engaging the wiper arm tight enough. The transmission assembly includes both wiper arm shafts and the arm that hooks between them and to the wiper motor. I stock it and can sell it to you for $50.99, dealer retail is $98.47. If you didn't want to drive to Flint to get it, S/H to Brighton would run you $8. P/M me if you're interested.

So how much did this end up costing you? What all did they replace trying to fix it?

Thats a good one. Who would ever have figured out it was the starter. Funny because the starter is located on the left side (driver's) of the car. Probably something to do with centrifugal forces. I guess the Bendix just didn't like right turns.

Ok - final break down -

first place ended up changing both front hubs - when I got there they decided to just leave them on as they didnt want me in there ( I was a LITTLE upset) soooo we got both of those for the $85 they charged me to "look over" the vehicle

second place replaced drive shaft - cv joint - brakes and pads - transmission (original tranny put back in)- pan drip, new fluids, and a new tranny filter - rotated routers - starter (12 hour of labor - charged for 3) total bill - $409


Wheeeeeeeeeeew its been a LONG two weeks

Since they didn't stick you for the transmission, maybe you didn't come out too bad. I hate it when they take advantage of someone.

yea I think I got out of it all pretty good for the amount of time and the parts that are now in my car!!!

Other than the two weeks without the car because of some some shoddy diagnostics, you didn't end up too bad. If the $409 includes the price of the starter, than they did you ok.