Thought I had it fixed.............

Hi all,
Ok my 97 camaro is gonna drive me crazy,just got it out of shop last Friday..(a week ago) it was there because it was running pretty bad,would start sometimes and others not...was backfiring and missing. Radio and windows both stop working at the same time too..
Well anyway got new plugs and plug wires disributor replaced caps and rotor too.....maf sensor cleaned and checked,tps sensor installed, fuel relay is fine.Replaced coolant light cause it stayed on all the time (though it's not low.....the man at the shop took it out test drove it and cleared all the codes and said it ran great.
Yeah it did for the first few days was back to my old car with tons of power,then Friday get in and it won't start...or rather it starts idles a few minutes and dies,if I push the gas pedal down to rev it it dies immediatley.When it was running throughout the week I noticed that it would heat up fine when idling but once I started driving it goes all the way back to 160 degrees and will not warm back up.
Can anyone please help??? I do plan on taking it back to the guy but gotta at least get it running to get there. it's a 5.7 L 6 speed manual
any help would be appreciated
Starzfanxxx

make shure you are getting enuf fuel, and the tem might be a thermostat problem. Since you paid the guy, just take it back to him. Trust me once you have it all fixed, you will love it, the 97 was a great your for the lt1!!

Any crud in coolant? Might be time for a flush.

Any crud in coolant? Might be time for a flush.
done that a couple of months ago... just don't understand ...think my cars possessed,it was running perfect then bam just nothing,called the guy and he said to bring it back in and he would check but kinda hard to take it when I can't even get out of my driveway.....dont really want to tow until last resort,how would I go about checking the fuel to see if its getting enough? I'm just a gal here but if it keeps messing up I guess eventually I'm gonna have to learn how to fix everything on it...lol I started it this morning and it ran fine while sitting in park but once I put it in gear it would just sputter then die then not start again....service engine light is back on and damn low coolant sensor too that was just replaced is on too.
Even changed my battery on my key less entry thing.

You need a code scanner...

You may need a new coolant temp sensor(not the one for the gages, the one for the computer)...and you are shure that the MAF is good?
You are eather starved for fuel or air...the problem probably lies in the engine/emissions systems and if you plug in a code reader, it will probably tell you exactly what the problem is...it is probably just ONE sensor that is causing all of these problems. Do you know anyone in your area that has a code reader(most mechanics dont make house calls)?

You may need a new coolant temp sensor(not the one for the gages, the one for the computer)...and you are shure that the MAF is good?
You are eather starved for fuel or air...the problem probably lies in the engine/emissions systems and if you plug in a code reader, it will probably tell you exactly what the problem is...it is probably just ONE sensor that is causing all of these problems. Do you know anyone in your area that has a code reader(most mechanics dont make house calls)?
nah don't know anyone with a code reader,as for the maf he had said he took it off cleaned it and checked it and it was fine,but guess it could've just been on it's way to going out then? After bringing it home from the shop only got to drive it about 60 miles before it messed up again.Oh well guess I shouldn't complain too much I bought the car brand new in 97 and have never had any problems till the last 6 months,Thanks for your help mallet and cavalier.....guess I'll be sure and have the maf checked first.

how manny miles are on it?

how manny miles are on it?
126,000

and this was your first problem, you lucky.

mabe you should buy a code reader so you have it...then you can read the codes yourself(since you cant get to the shop at the moment) and diagnose the problem...
If Im right about it just being one(mabe two) sensors, then the comp will tell you which are bad and you could just replace them yourself.
Not to mention, if the shop you take your car to charges for scanning the codes(some shops do) then it could quickly pay for itself.
Does anyone know if the MAF in the 97 camaro uses a burnoff relay?

Just a note, GM's MAFs are pretty good. They may have been on the right track cleaning, but I doubt it's the problem.

If your temp instantly drops back to 160 with driving, either A- your thermostat is stuck open, or B-Your getting a false reading from the CTS, are the fan(s) are constatnly running?

See the MAF kind of does a double duty as a intake air sensor, being the denser of the air mass entering it measures, the PCM translates it as cooler air. Or visa versa as may be in this case, it thinks the air may be warmer than it really is and leaning out the fuel mixture and the fuel is actually vaporizing (pre igniting) in the intake causing the backfire. The CTS, and TPS giving false readings casue more MAF replacements than a actually bad MAF.

As mentioned, a scanner is going to be a very useful tool and pays for itself on the first use. You really need one that displays live data stream so that you can see fuel trim (constant lean/constant rich), MAF reading and what the CTS is reporting as the engine temp is versus what it really is. It would also be beneficial to know what the O2 readings before and after the catalytic converter are to rul out the slight possibility of a exhaust restriction.

Just a note, GM's MAFs are pretty good. They may have been on the right track cleaning, but I doubt it's the problem.

If your temp instantly drops back to 160 with driving, either A- your thermostat is stuck open, or B-Your getting a false reading from the CTS, are the fan(s) are constatnly running?

See the MAF kind of does a double duty as a intake air sensor, being the denser of the air mass entering it measures, the PCM translates it as cooler air. Or visa versa as may be in this case, it thinks the air may be warmer than it really is and leaning out the fuel mixture and the fuel is actually vaporizing (pre igniting) in the intake causing the backfire. The CTS, and TPS giving false readings casue more MAF replacements than a actually bad MAF.

As mentioned, a scanner is going to be a very useful tool and pays for itself on the first use. You really need one that displays live data stream so that you can see fuel trim (constant lean/constant rich), MAF reading and what the CTS is reporting as the engine temp is versus what it really is. It would also be beneficial to know what the O2 readings before and after the catalytic converter are to rul out the slight possibility of a exhaust restriction.
so would the thermostat keep it from running? As for the fans no they don't kick in or run till it gets past the halfway mark.Are the code readers expensive? Does any auto parts place rent them out? Just spent 1,000 bucks last week so was just wondering...lol

You can get a basic scanner for around $200 at auaozone and the like. Would a stst kill the motor?, not normally.

You're positive you're not leaking any coolant?

yes im positive nothing leaks

he had told me the only other code it threw was for the tps then after he cleared the codes and test drove it it was fine.....I replaced the tps the other day is it possible I got a bad one when I bought it?

Didn't he already put a TPS in?

Could be a wiring issue. Or bum part out of the box, it happens.

no thats the one thing he didnt do,cause he said once he cleared the codes it didnt show up again,......About the wiring I was kinda thinking there might be a short in it somewhere,because my radio and windows both quit working at the same time and if you hit the lock on the keyless remote they will sometimes come on. but hey I'm not the mechanic guess I'll just get it into town somehow and get it checked,he wont charge me to look so guess thats the only way Im gonna know for sure

If you want to save money, then the best way is to do the work yourself...
Sounds like your electrical issue(or atleast one of them) is tied into the keyless entry system...is it stock or aftermarket?
Also, you dont by any chance have an aftermarket stereo system(that required rewiring) do you?
Has anyone messed around with the wiring lately? or even removed the kick pannels?

its all stock and nobodies messed with any wires other than the mechanic

A TPS is cheap, will fail eventually, and will cause these types of problems, I'd say cheap in surance and nothing to loose replacing it. You could do it yourself in your driveway with a few simple hand tools.

well had it towed in yesterday.....guess we'll see whats wrong....

I have one idea for you.

Under the hood at the front of the car on the drivers side there is a fusepanel. Open that and look at the 20 amp (yellow) fuses. One of them is the fuse that works the "air" pump. That's right below your fuseblock fyi. If that is blown, tear the pump apart and unstick the motor and solenoid. Stick it back together and see if that helps. If that does not heat up the air charge, the fans will run constantly and your temp will not rise. I think it's some snafu in the ECM. It also will not run worth a crap. I doubt it's the temp sensor just because the car's not overheating. I could be wrong tho.

Opti.

yep was the distributor..........the mechanic told me it would cost 838.00 bucks to fix said the dist cost 546.00.....told him I'l just tow it back home and put one on myself,