2g convertible top

hey all,

Recently I read an article posted here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77418

it basically tells you how to fix your spyder 2g convertible top motors, instead of buying new ones.

I was wondering have any of you encountered this problem?

If so did you follow these instructions, how did they work?

or do you have your own instructions?

why would u replace or rebuid the motors, those motors should last a while!

I have a floating bar problem on my new gst. It appears they actually took out the bent linkage (previous owner).

What I did was first I removed the staples pushing through the roof (they made marks not through yet). Restapled. Then I bought a kit off ebay for 100 dollars. It comes with instructions. It's basically replacement (and much stronger) linkings, and the elastic is fixed by a wire on this that you connect to the bar after the first one. It screws into the side rails and as the top pulls back these wires pull the top back. Works even better then my 99 that had a near perfect top.

It's worth the 100 bucks if you have the same failure. The top seats perfect now. But I'm still looking for the spacers and connectors that were used with the original metal brakcets to the first support bar.

if you want pics let me know. I have some of the kit out of the car. And the instructions it comes with to install are amazingly detailed.

I have a floating bar problem on my new gst. It appears they actually took out the bent linkage (previous owner).

What I did was first I removed the staples pushing through the roof (they made marks not through yet). Restapled. Then I bought a kit off ebay for 100 dollars. It comes with instructions. It's basically replacement (and much stronger) linkings, and the elastic is fixed by a wire on this that you connect to the bar after the first one. It screws into the side rails and as the top pulls back these wires pull the top back. Works even better then my 99 that had a near perfect top.

It's worth the 100 bucks if you have the same failure. The top seats perfect now. But I'm still looking for the spacers and connectors that were used with the original metal brakcets to the first support bar.

if you want pics let me know. I have some of the kit out of the car. And the instructions it comes with to install are amazingly detailed.


pictures would be great thank you...

why would u replace or rebuid the motors, those motors should last a while!


because on the majority of the 2nd gen spyders after a long time of use two pins (one in each motor) break! This renders the convertible top motors not useable...


thus one has to manually open and shut their convertible top, its just better with a button...


that is why people rebuild their motor so to speak, it isnt really a rebuil its more like replacing a little piece of metal...

http://www.novaslp.net/pics1/img_0113.jpg - Complete kit with color visuals and instructions (caution big file)

http://www.novaslp.net/pics1/img_0114.jpg - one of the brackets. Much better quality then the mitsu bracket

http://www.novaslp.net/pics1/img_0115.jpg - both brackets with instructions.

note I didn't have to replace the pins. My top still worked just hte bar did not retract right.

I have the same exact problem with my top .Do you know of anywhere i can get that kit? Was it hard to do the install?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-CONVERTIBLE-TOP-REPAIR-KIT-1996-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQitemZ461814864 8QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

That is the auction for it. He continuously sells them as eclipse convertible repair kit. It's not hard to install. You had to drill two holes and drill out some rivits of the old bent parts. Took me about an hour and a half with help of someone else.

But now the question is can you guys help me. The front well the bar that doens't pull back when I got it wasn't attached to anything. It just had the two little pegs on it with nothing on them. What normally is on your pegs. I can take pictures of them if you need. From the book it says a spacer and a nut. I didn't have either of those so I used washers and a e clamp. Mine is kinda jerry rigged because of that. So if one of you would be nice enough to look at let me know what you have on those places that would be great and I would be forever in your debt.

that repair kit looks great i think i may get it!!


Does it rlly stop the leaks though, i thought that was the weather stripping that was messsed up ??



also i got a FREE brand new convertible top!!!


completley free... I got broken into in the summer, they ran away cuz my stock alarm went off, anyways I paid a 100 dollar deductible for 2 new windows and a NEW CONVERTIBLE TOP plus install...


Better yet we caught the kid who broke into it, so I got my 100 bux back!!!!

cool story eh?:licka:

it doesn't stop leaks really.. It stops the staples from pushing through your top, and it makes the bar go back in the proper place. So the frame won't get all wracked (possibly causing leaks later).

If you leak alot (from the front area) unhook the top and lift it a bit. Those hooks that clamp into your top of the windshield can be adjusted. Use an allen wrench to loosen them, give them 2 turns and then try to clamp them again. That fixes most problems with the front leaks.

Next clean all the weather stripping real good and anywhere the windows set, clean the windows. Armor all all the weather stripping. That usually fixes leaks around windows. If it leaks from the back window you may be able to use silicon caulk on that to seal it up. I think I may do it to mine. If it leaks on the top part you want to scotch gaurd the top. Someone else posted instructions here and it works wonders.

These parts only fix how it goes down and retracts back and keeps it from breaking or piercing holes in the top from staples that pop out.