mopar convert

Ok guys i need some 5.0 89-93 coupe advice. Im gonna buy one of these and make it into a turbo with shaved handles, sound deadiner exhaust. You know make it into a really sleepy looking car. I need some help though on like turboing stuff whats the best kind parts all that.I was a mopar man but ive decided to go for something more torquey. A friend of mine on here said you guys were more helpful then most of the other forums. So let the pointers fly!!!

EDIT supercharger works to

EDIT I will be doing as much work as i can by myself and i know alot of people who will help me work on it for free

First of all we need a budget and a power goal. Then we need to know if you will do the work yourself or not. Carb or EFI? We need more info.

carb, budget 8,000.00 should be a good start not counting the car, and power i dunno i think anywhere from 350 to 500 sounds good

Well to be honest with you its not gonna be easy to build a turbo motor for 8 grand. I've got about $10,000 in my motor. But go to www.turbomustangs.com and look at the options there. There is a vendor at TM.com who is selling MP turbos for a good deal. I'd say a stock shortblock with stock cam or an E303 cam (both good mild turbo/blower cams), maybe some box stock Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads for about $1,100, a Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake for $250, look at VSracing (a vendor at TM) for a air/air intercooler for about $240 and a MP t70 turbo from him for around $500-$600 from what I understand, Then you will need bov/wastegate again you can find them at TM in the classified areas, some flipped shorty headers for probably around $300 ceramic coated www.summitracing.com. The list goes on. It would probably be easiest on you to buy a CSU carb & bonnet or an EV bonnet. You can build your own carb if you like www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html .But you will have close to $1000 in carb and bonnet from CSU which is what I suggest. Give Kevin at CSU a call 909-851-6955.

For ignition I would suggest MSD billet distributor with the advance locked or removed. You dont want your timing advancing under boost. Then either get the $230 MSD 6AL ignition box or the $390 MSD 6BTM which will pull/retard timing under boost (just keeps things a little safer). You can get a MSD Blaster SS coil which is what I have for about $40. Then just get the suggested wires, seems like solid core spark plug wires are a no no. Run autolite plugs gapped around .025 - .030 and you should be good there.

For you fuel system DO NOT get cheap here. Do it right the first time or be sorry, its that simple. Not enough fuel = lean = brakes shit with boost.
So, I would suggest for you power goal an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and suggested filters, 13204 fuel pressure regulator (you can go with the 13202 if you think you will need to upgrade you fuel pump in the future). Now are you going to use a fuel cell or stock tank? If you are going to use a stock tank you will need to be able to weld. You can take the stock tank pick-up and cut the old feed/return fitting off and drill it out, then replace them with larger peices. You will need to run -12AN line from the cell/tank to the pre-pump filter which Aeromotive sells fitting that connect the 2 filters you will need directly to the pump, then -10AN line from post-pump filter up to the fuel pressure regulator. From there run -6AN or -8AN lines from the regulator to the carb(depending on what regulator you get, the 13204 comes with -6 ports for the carb where the 13202 has -8 ports). Then you will need to run a -10AN return line from the bottom port of the regulator back to the fuel cell/tank. You can buy fittings that will go from the -8 return port on the 13204 regulator to a -10 line for your return. If you dont run a large enough return line you will have a hard time getting your fuel pressure to stay down so that you dont go crazy rich at idle.

This is just a ramble of things you will need for your build. There is alot more to learn. But it is cheaper to go with a carb than EFI, specially if you are more used to carbs and dont have alot of high performace EFI stuff. Check out www.turbomustangs.com www.csucarbs.com www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html and www.summitracing.com .

Let me know if you have any more question. TM.com has a huge turbo/blower blow thrue carb database so use the search engine every chance you get because alot of the same questions are asked and answered every day. If you can find an answere for your questions then by all means ask. Good luck & enjoy.

Thanks man! I can do most of the stuff myself but for most of the stuff myself and the real technical stuff i can have the local race shop help me with they know carbs alot more then i do so i can have them help

If you dont do anything else as I suggested run the fuel system like I explained and use either a CSU or EV carb bonnet. There is a huge difference between a boost prepped carb and a blow thrue carb. Check out the hanger 18 carb building page. I think I could do that with the pictures and all that he provided. I just warn you about loca shops because a carb can make or break you.

Well the shop i know race hobbystock and my best friends dad builds up carbs so i'll see if he can help me with picking out the one that would be perfect for the setup i kinda got picked out

351wstang- do you think it would be cheaper to reach his hp goals without boost? i mean they are pretty good with mods...

just an idea incase this turns out to be to pricey

You know stang00 im thinking the same thing because from what i seen i can get exhaust,headers,etc for pretty cheap and adding it up i dont think i need a turbo/supercharger yet. Maybe later on when im ready for it.

You can get ~ 300hp with H/C/I. Buy one of those trick flow kits and put a 75 shot n2o on the car and you should be close to 350rwhp with a 5 speed. More like 300rwhp with an auto.

a nice 331 stroker kit would probably do quite a bit too.

a nice 331 stroker kit would probably do quite a bit too.

Well it wouldnt hurt anything. But he is working with an $8000 budget. That wont go too far. Even if you stay N/A I'd suggest electric fuel pump, good fuel pressure regulator (the boost prepped Aeromotive peices work well N/A and leave you room to grow and boost in the future). If I where you I'd stay away from DSS stuff. Although I've heard that alot of the Eagle stuff takes a good deal of work out of the box to get it just right the prices arent that bad on them. Say you decide to go N/A 302 based stroker...
302 block with stock bore if possible, bore it if absolutely neccessary, and buy a 4340 crank & h-beam rods. Get a pair of good pistons, not speed pro/keith black. I know of several people that have had KB pistons come apart on them, there just isnt enough meat above the top ring. I would suggest maybe some Probe pistons, mine where about $450. I'd suggest you run about 10.0:1 cr for n/a as a pump gas street car. Then get some TFS twisted wedge or AFR 185 heads, a Vic Jr. or Air-Gap intake, and a hydro roller cam with around .550 lift and 230ish duration @ .050 with a 112 or so LSA. Then throw a Holley 650dp on it and spin it to 6000 rpms. Should be around 300-325rwhp. But, with good suspension and a 5 spd with good driver that car would run 12.0 maybe high 11's in the quarter.

I suggest the smaller heads & cam because the stock 5.0 blocks arent real stout. They break around 500hp n/a and high rpms dont help. Keep the revs to about 6000 and it should last.

ok heres whats going with what i have planned. Headers, high flow race mufflers with a straight pipes no cats at all, intake, holley carb, better springs and shocks, better brakes, better rubber and rims, fuel pump, oil filter by k and n for sure, some nice tough race pistons, 75 shot of nitrous,defiantly the smaller cam, lots of msd ignition stuff, better fuel management system. I think that should all be a good start.

Gonna keep the stock hood or no? FYI on the intake..Edelbrock has intakes under control, just stay away from the torker stuff. If your gonna try for a stock hood I'd suggest a Performer RPM EDL-7121 $157. If your not worried about hood clearance I'd suggest a Performer RPM Air-Gap EDL-7521 $228 (well worth the price difference).

Headers, long tubes for sure..this is a fox, its no big deal. Much easier than a modular lt install. BBK-15940 $430 but they are ceramic coated, that means they flow better, dissipate heat quicker, look better, and dont discolor. I'd also suggest an offroad BBK H-pipe (no cats) to bolt up to your headers.

Your N/A, how loud do you wanna be? I'd suggest 1 chamber Flowmasters FLO-325108 $73 each. I have them on the 5.0 in my '90 F-150 and everybody loves the sound of my truck.

For you carb this is what I would suggest. HLY-0-4777C for $322 or HLY-0-4777S for $390. Just depends on the look your after.

Not sure what to suggest for the springs and shocks. Guess it all depends on how much strip driving you will be doing and if your gonna lower the car. Just know that the lontube headers will give you the optimum performance, but they dont agree with lowered vehicles. Some have dont it but I'm not sure how low they went.

The brakes as well can go several different ways. You can go to a manual brake conversion which I would suggest for a car that is rarely street driven, mostly track driven. Just depends on how much you wanna put into the brakes & suspension for that matter. I'd say get the car running before you get too crazy here. You would be suprised what stock brakes can do.

I like the MT ET Streets for rear rubber.

I still suggest Aeromotive for fuel and MSD for ignition.

I'f your gonna swap out pistons you will have the whole bottom end apart. Might as well go ahead and make it stout while its out. But a rotating assembly or seperate crank, rods, & pistons. If your replacing these parts you might as well stroke & bore it. ESP-B14003030 this is a 347 rotating assembly, but I'm not sure what your compression would be with these pistons. Just know that nitrous loves compression. But, much over 10.0-10.5:1 on pump gas with irons heads is pushing the limit. You dont want to spark knock while spraying nitrous. I's suggest you stay around 10.0:1.

For your nitrous any square bore carb plate system will be fine. With a good bottom end and the proper tuning I'd say you could really make some power with the bottle. Get used to it and crank it up. Just remember to retune your carb for each power change with the nitrous. N2O is like boost in that it adds good power, but if you're lean...your breaking parts.

The E303 cam will work good with your stock heads. .498 .498 lift, 220/220 duration @ .050, 110 LSA. FMS-M-6250-E303 $165.


Hope this helps. Just trying to suggest good quality parts with price in mind. It may cost a few more dollars up front, but its always cheapest to do things right the first time.

+2 for http://www.turbomustangs.com.

Go there and just read, read, read. They even have a turbo Mopar forum.

Yeah im just gonna start small first you know cuz there car is gonna be driven on the street alot. My first parts i think are gonna be the headers,the eldebrock intake, k and n oil filter, race mufflers and custom made straights, i want it to be loud and obnoxious. lol..I think that should defiantly be a good start before i start ripping the motor apart.

Auto or manual tranny? I'd suggest some 3.73 rear gears since it will be street driven alot. Do yourself a favor with the intake and buy atleast a Performer RPM. A Summit tech would probably say just buy a Performer because thats all your motor needs. But the RPM isnt that much bigger, you will like the RPM intake better as you keep adding new mods. Personally I wish I have bought Vic Jr. heads & intake instead of the RPM stuff. But I'm shooting for 10.xx @ 120+ mph in the 1/4.
Don't overdue the exhaust. I went with 3" for a 500rwhp car, but 2.5" would have been fine. If I where you I'd buy BBK headers & offroad H-pipe and stick some Flowmasters behind it. If you go with too large a pipe and straight thrue mufflers you will have low back pressure and therefor loose some low end power/torque that you would have enjoyed with a more restraining exhaust system.

manual for sure, and for my exhaust i think 2 inches will be good with the mufflers i got picked out.

2" is less that stock. Do not put 2" exhaust pipe behind a V8 with mods...
Use 2.5" pipe and be done with it.