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2000 Malibu - First 2 air settings don't work?


ksosne
02-22-2006, 06:18 PM
We just bought a 2000 Malibu with just under 80,000 miles. I thought we had tested everything out, but we didn't test every setting on the heat/air control. :banghead: We turned it all the way on to test the heat and the air conditioning, but not each click. The air/heat doesn't come on until it's turned to the 3rd setting. Any ideas on how to go about fixing this? Where we should start? Thanks!

wpbharry
02-22-2006, 08:19 PM
Common problem with last generation Malibus. You need a new A/C control head unit. I had mine replaced under Extended Warranty on my '98 LS (which I no longer own, thank God) at least a half dozen times.

ksosne
02-23-2006, 12:29 AM
Thanks, I will try that!

BeatnikTermite
02-23-2006, 07:23 AM
We just bought a 2000 Malibu with just under 80,000 miles. I thought we had tested everything out, but we didn't test every setting on the heat/air control. :banghead: We turned it all the way on to test the heat and the air conditioning, but not each click. The air/heat doesn't come on until it's turned to the 3rd setting. Any ideas on how to go about fixing this? Where we should start? Thanks!

Do not replace the entire unit unless you feel like wasting $100.

Go here for the resistor part that needs to be replaced.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=324040

The repair will cost about $20, and take about an hour tops.

ksosne
02-24-2006, 03:45 AM
Thanks so much for that link!! I didn't realize this was such a common problem. Thanks again!!

wpbharry
02-24-2006, 06:48 AM
Right. The entire control head unit needs to be replaced if the "other problem" crops up, which is not staying in recirc, but constantly switching (by itself) to fresh air mode.

So many problems. Just a tiny tip of the iceberg......

BeatnikTermite
02-24-2006, 07:45 AM
Right. The entire control head unit needs to be replaced if the "other problem" crops up, which is not staying in recirc, but constantly switching (by itself) to fresh air mode...

Actually, that can be fixed with a simple cleaning, costing about $1 (rubbing alcohol, pencil, Q-tip) and taking about 30 minutes.

Go here for the link to the procedure:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=324015

ksosne
02-25-2006, 06:17 PM
Uh oh, I think we may be having that problem. I'm going to have to pay attention to that the next couple days and make sure that's not another problem we are having. Grrrrr. I hope we just didn't buy ourselves an annoying bundle of trouble! Next problem is about to be posted regarding clicking. GRRRRRR!!

chevydog
02-27-2006, 09:38 PM
blower motor resistor (blower motor module) is bad - gm tech for 12 years
it is located under pass side dash, wires from resistor plugs into blower motor
it has 3 5.5mm head screws that holds it in place, if you remove it has a
circuit board that is always burnt, you'll be able to see the burnt marks on the circuit board

cs_jbluett
03-04-2006, 02:09 PM
This is from another posting but I had the same problem. It works.

This has been discussed many times here before, and I thought I would bring all of the information together in a "how-to." I have personally replaced this part with one purchased at CarQuest for $20. The repair took me about one hour to complete.

Problem: HVAC Blower motor only works on fan settings 3, 4 & 5.

Reason: Blower Motor Resistor is bad, and needs to be replaced.

Affected Model Years: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001

Permanent Fix:

You will need: 1/4" Socket set -or- a 3/8" set with a universal joint

1. Remove the plastic cover from the underside of the passenger dash held in by four bolts. Note how the two air ducts on the left and top are connected, and how the other plastic cover piece is connected to the piece you are removing. This is helpful when you go to reinstall it.
2. Slide the Control Module to the right and pull it down carefully. Push it to the right being careful not to damage the wires.
3. Remove the blower motor power cable located on the forward side of the blower near the firewall.
4. Remove the jumper cable link to the blower motor resistor located on the resistor near the forward side of the blower.
5. Remove the blower motor held in place with three 7mm (I believe) bolts. You mat not need to do this, but it helps give you some room to work. It will also let see the blower motor resistor before proceeding.
6. Remove the two 5.5 mm bolts that hold the green blower motor resistor.
7. Install the new resistor using the two retained bolts. The improved part will be longer than the original, and black not green.
8. Re-install the blower motor using the three retained bolts, if you removed it originally.
9. Re-connect the blower motor power, and the resistor jumper.
10. Test the blower fan settings prior to putting the dash back together.
11. Align and push the Control Module up into the slot and slide it back to the left.
12. Re-install the plastic cover using four retained bolts. This is where it helped to pay attention to the ducts and the other cover when removing.

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