SBR G50- 50 trim vs MHI Evo III

Ok, Im having a bit of a problem... Come spring my car is getting tuned. I cant decide whether I should upgrade to a 50 trim (lots of lag and a little more power) or Evo III. With my current setup with the Big 16g I am making 300 to the wheels with no tuning at 15lbs. Im shooting for upwards of 300hp maybe low low 400s. I have a set of Evo 560cc injectors and a 2g mas to throw on before tuning. I am front wheel so I wanted a 50 trim so when it finally spools im moving a little bit and will hopefully get some traction. Ive heard good things and bad things about the 50 trim. Some say they are great some say there junk. A local guy owns one and made 362 to the wheels but said its really laggy. Another local kid has an Evo and is running 11's (both all wheel) but there is another kid who has a 50 trim on his fwd and runs 12.6's at 126. Thats a 10 second car with traction cause he doesnt have a limited slip or slicks, just street tires. The only mods the kid with the Evo has that I dont are a Gm Maft and Ecu chipped for his 750cc injectors. Also slowboys site has a dynograph of a run with the 50 trim. They only made like 375 at 27lbs of boost (race gas) with it and its a rated 500hp turbo. While Evos are making that all day for 200 less. So what do you guys think, go with 50 trim on my front wheel drive or get the Evo III. Again ide like to be in the upward 300's with either turbo and keep in mind the traction issues with a fast spooling turbo. I also plan on getting cams and sheet metal intake later down the road. Let me know.

Sorry I posted under my bothers name. The thread is for me so use my sig for mods list.

With my current setup with the Big 16g I am making 300 to the wheels with no tuning at 15lbs.

No, you aren't.

Im shooting for upwards of 300hp maybe low low 400s.

The EvoIII will not get you near a 400whp goal on pump gas. Even on race gas, you will need cams to reach 400whp. Might as well buy a turbo to match your goal, not to stretch to your goal.

They are both good turbo's but I would go for the 50 trim getting your power goals will be easier on that turbo. Who says anything bad about a 50 trim? Never heard a bad thing about them. I dont think the lag is that much more for a 50 trim. If lag is that big of a deal, buy a Honda... no lag there ;). Also, I think your injectors are too small for either turbo to make much power.

I have a hard time believing youre makind 300whp at 15psi on pump but I guess its possible. Like joemathews said, why buy a turbo that your going to have to max out to get to the range you want to. SBR has BB 50 trims and IIRC the spool time isnt much more than a 16g. I've never heard anyone complain about lag on a 50 trim, hell I know a guy who was running a gt35r on a neon with a 420a and he didnt have that bad of leg
EDIT: I think without head work and cams 300 is kind of high, but I'll believe it if you have a dyno sheet that you could post:)

I agree..go with the 50 trim over the evo3. I have the evo 3 GT at 17psi(we got different mods of course) and I know I aint near 300 hp. Be easier to reach and less headache's with the 50.

Uhh, whats this thread about? Going 50 over 16g? errrr.. 50!

You have to look at price too. Evo 3 is still 200 less fully ported. Base 50 trim is 700+125 for 38mm internal gate (no porting). Also, I hate ebay kits... but they are selling 50 t3/t4, manifold, 40mm wastegate, bov, and gaskets and shit for like 600.00 I have done a little research and talked to a few people who oredered them and they say its decent shit. Only bad thing is the junk ss autochrome manifold tends to crack, but the manifold has a lifetime warranty and the turbo has a 1 year warranty. If this stuff is as junk as everyone says, how can they offer a decent warranty. I am starting to lean more towards the 50 trim. By the way... I have evo 8 560cc injectors and a 2g mas (havnt updated my sig yet). Also if I get the 50 trim should Im upgrading to larger injectors, should I go with PTE 650cc or 750cc. I have heard that once you get bigger than 650cc with an AFC its hard to tune.
Thanks for the input guys... Let me know.

its more like 650s are hard to tune, anything bigger is impossible

Has anyone had any first hand experience with those kits? If someone has a link talking about them or something. I usually stick with the real shit like MHI and SBR but I would like to save a few $ if I could. Everyones been bashing on the EVO 3 Gt and so far Ive heard nothing but good things from users... Sure theres the occasional one that shits the bed, but it could and has happend to even top brand turbos. I dont see the true Evo coming with a 1 year warranty or the true Garetts. This 50 trim comes with a 1 year warranty also.

Also about whether I am making 300 to the wheels, its estimated. I KNOW I am no lower than 280. I have stuck right beside a 362whp Gsx from a roll. I know about drivetrain loss and all but i think the 80+ more horsepower makes up for it. I have also beaten stock Sti's from rolls by 1to 1 and a half car lengths. For some reason with as little as this car has done it is quite fast. I trapped at 109 with a slipping clutch and 2.4 60ft. With mph like that you have to be putting down close to 300.

Ok you guys arent helping me with the main question at all. This has now become a thread trying to guess my hp. And what do you mean you cant guess hp by racing other cars. As long as there are a similar build car then I dont see why not. If I can stick by a 362hp All wheel from a roll. Then wouldnt you think I would have to be close to 300? Yeah... Second I have an autometer carbon fiber boost gauge. 2 months old. All lines are zip tied and sealed and there is no leak near the gauge or you would hear it. Im not new to these cars. When I rebuilt the motor I had the head shaved down. Shaving the head ups the compression=More power off less boost. You can sit here and tell me all the shit you want but the car is fast for its small mod list. Anyhow, before this turned into a dumshit agument about hp... back to my question. Does anyone know the quality of the ebay turbo kits. If so post up a link or something. Thanks

You cant go by what another car is putting out because alot of racing has to do with the driver, and if it were any indication I would be making 350-400hp at the wheels because I beat a built small block malibu. I would stay away from ebay turbos, get something thats tried and tested :2cents:

Traps of 109 do put you close to 300 whp. I don't mind a little bench racing, at least this time there are track numbers. :) But the point I Want to make is about turbo warranties. They are relatively worthless. Anyone can make shit parts, offer a warranty, and then not honor it. With turbos they will almost always tell you that you had oil contamination or not enough oil flow to the turbo, etc. Things that are impossible to prove or disprove. You also have dishonest customers who blow the turbo for those reasons, and then blame the manufacturer, so it's a tough situation. I always assume that any turbo I buy is without warranty, and try to stick to major manufacturers (garret, MHI, etc) and popular builders (SBR, AGP, FP) if there is any assembly involved.

To answer the original question, I think both turbos are great and will do what you want. The EVO16g is a mean street turbo that can still get it done at the track with race gas and good tuning. The 50 trim will have a little more power potential, but the same statements apply, great pump gas turbo, but still gets it done on race gas and good tuning. The difference is 6 lbs/min, which is pretty substantial and does justify the extra cost. The difference in lag would something like 3400 for the 16g and around 4000 for the 50 trim, so thats an appreciable difference as well. IMO, this turbo choice is really down to personal taste now. It would be hard to go wrong with either one. And I did run similar times on both, having never really realized the full potential of my TDO6H 50trim. I think I did 12.02 on a big 16g on race gas, and a 12.1 or so on the 50 trim, but on pump gas.

First off thank you Kevin for answering my question with a straight answer. Joe... I can totally see where you coming from... you dont know me or my car and for all you know I may not even own a Dsm. So I can see your point. But just because I said "Carbon Fiber" should not shed my credibility. That is the series of autometer gauge it is. If I had said the "Phantom series" or "Ultra-Light" you would have said nothing. CF does not automatically mean "ricer".
But anyhow... Ive been snooping around on a few diff. sites and on slowboys I came across their new bulleseye series turbos. http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=4335
Scroll to the bottom and they have their V trim turbo. What does "V" trim mean. Second I read they flow like 48lbs a min... is this true? And if so, thats only 1lbs a min less than a 50 trim (49lbs a min) and 110 bucks cheaper. If anyone has any experience or info on this turbo let me know. Like the max hp rating and spool times... Thanks, Ryan

But just because I said "Carbon Fiber" should not shed my credibility. That is the series of autometer gauge it is. If I had said the "Phantom series" or "Ultra-Light" you would have said nothing. CF does not automatically mean "ricer".

He was refering to doing a boost leak test. You wouldnt hear anything like you would if you had a vacuum leak.

Traps of 109 do put you close to 300 whp. I don't mind a little bench racing, at least this time there are track numbers. :) But the point I Want to make is about turbo warranties. They are relatively worthless. Anyone can make shit parts, offer a warranty, and then not honor it. With turbos they will almost always tell you that you had oil contamination or not enough oil flow to the turbo, etc.

Kevin!! Haven't seen you around in a while. Isn't there a quote from Tommy Boy about offering warranties on shitty parts?
Like everyone said don't buy an ebay turbo, smaller less important parts maybe but not a mechanical part such as a turbo. I bought a xs power turbo kit for my talon (back before i was even a menmber of af) and it was fine and held boost really well but i may have just gotten lucky. I haven't driven that car since june but it lasted almost a year with those parts (manifold, turbo, etc) Then i blew a head gasket (I was boosting 22psi). I really would never buy a turbo from them again but thats just because i know what i now know (wow that makes no sense!!)

I think the quote from tommy boy was something like, "you can stick your head up a bulls ass, or you could take the butchers word for it":lol:

I think the quote from tommy boy was something like, "you can stick your head up a bulls ass, or you could take the butchers word for it":lol:
No, know that one but there is a different one almost exactly what kevin said.

Dyno numbers are a lot more meaningless than people seem to believe. The same car on two different dynos can make completely different hp. Even on the same dyno they can be completely different. I know you guys are using hp calcs. though.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/editors/technobabble/9907scc_technobabble/

And how is an ebay warranty meaningful, or any warranty really? I don't really see the path to getting your money or even any response whatsoever from the person selling you the parts. To me this is one of the biggest problems of today--false company claims and no accountability--it's really pervasive.