Help :(

How's it going guys? First post to these boards, although I've been coming to AF for a while now, just never as a registered user. Anywho...

Just bought a '95 Z-28, Love the car, LOVE the power (cliche yeah). For a long time, I've been having the SES light come on. I took it to a local shop to get a diagnostic on it. They said the MAF was acting up, but they couldn't go into detail because the shop didn't have enough time to delve deeply, for reasons of late nights, and they were closing. They also said the Speed Sensor (VSS?) was acting up, however the VSS was an intermittent code. My question (about time right?) is this: MAF sensor, going out, what are the symptoms? and VSS what are the symptoms? The car runs fine, and the SES light will go off and come back on. I tried to get AutoZone to scan the codes, but since they use the OBD-II and my car has a 16 prong connector, but utilizes OBD-I so their equiptment couldn't be used. And I really don't want to have to pay $94.00 for another hook up at shops just to get codes. So any help would be deeply appreciated. I bought the car for just under 3900, and I'd really REALLY hate to have to spend that much on just repairs for the car. Because obviously, the money for repairs could've paid off the car by now...yes I took a loan so I can get some credit built up. Thanks in advance for reading, and offering help.

Nate

The MAF could cause all sorts of negative running conditions such as poor gas mileage and surging. Pretty much irratic running conditions depending on how far gone it is. As for the VSS, a couple signs of it being bad are a inaccurate speedo which may jump around or possible ABS lights coming on. I advice you to a buy a scanning cable off ebay for around 30 - 40 bucks shipped and the software to scan the car yourself from your computer is free. Plus in the event you want to program your car when and if you start modding it. You can use the cable for that too as well for any future check engine light conditions you may have. Also welcome to AF and 95 was a great year for the LT1.

Thanks formula, for the speedy response. I tried to reset the codes this evening by pulling the PCM circuit for a while. When I started up the car, the SES light was off, so I drove around for a little bit, eventually but unsurpisingly it came back on. I had to damn near get up to 90 a few times before it came back on. Is there a way to get the codes, like the ALDL paper clip trick? Why oh why does it have to be so difficult to get codes from OBDI 16 pin connector...oh well. About that cable you told me to get from ebay, I looked for it but I was unable to find one. Also on my laptop I have no Parallel port, just an out for another screen, is there a cable that will hook up with USB 2.0 ports? And for the last questions, will normal dustoff for computers work at cleaning the MAF? And will a leak around the MAF sensor from a not so tight intake throw a code? Again, i'm stumped because it doesn't drive poorly at all...the code comes and goes with different start ups and turn offs of the car, and my gas mileage is from what I hear, "normal" by LT1 standards. Refilled the tank last night...first time in about a week and a half of DD in the city. Thanks again, sorry for the length.

Nate

No, there is no easy way other than scanning to get the codes out of a hybrid Gm OBD 1 system. I don't recommend cleaning MAF's but it could work. I also don't think a little rattling should effect it throwing a code considering how most garages test them is by tapping on them while the vehicles is running and seeing if it effects running conditions and then they replace it if it does.

Also on my laptop I have no Parallel port, just an out for another screen, is there a cable that will hook up with USB 2.0 ports?

Nate

For the OBD1 connection to a laptop you need a RS-232 port (aka serial port). Just for clarification, because you might already know this, its a socket on the side or back of the laptop and its got 9 male pins on it. If you don't have one there are a number of USB-Serial adapters out there. The one that I've heard works the best from multiple sites, the Belkin F5U103, didn't work with any of the free diagnostic software I've found. Cheap laptops with serial ports are a dime a dozen on e-bay, you can get one that'll work for about 30-50 bucks

Thanks again Formula, and Nate. I have something that will make things a little easier...I found the bill from a garage that fixed my window (stupid maro windows :eek:) and on it, the codes are:

34 MAP sensor or circuit too low
23 VSS low output

so, now...how to fix?

Thanks again guys, big help :)

Nate

Aight guys, I appreciate your help and responses. I bought a haynes guide book the other night. Along with a replacement MAP sensor. Installed it Wed. morning, and I haven't had an SES light since.

Now onto another question(s) I've got a few, sorry... I didn't want to make a new thread, and I also didn't see this one anywhere. S/C's...do they make any other type of superchargers besides centrifugal superchargers, for 95 LT1's? I know Vortec, is highly thought of, Powerdyne - sort of...But i like the look of roots blowers and whipple blowers, like the stangs have, so basically the ones that sit on top of the motor, rather than down by where the stock intake is. Also, the SLP CAI, is that worth it? What's it sound like? And does a new cam, give that nice sort of like, "glug glug glug glug" engine sound as heard here:

http://videos.streetfire.net/category/Chevrolet/9/163E6F4A-3D90-4579-B598-7EB1FCB62392.htm (cam and open headers, right?)

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just happy to have this car (always wanted one) and now there are things I would like to do to it. I had an accord before this car...haha import to domestic :) always a nice change. Finally: where are these crate engines i'm hearing people talk about that they can get for like 2k? I'm seeing all engines at like 3-9k...

Thanks again for you're time, and advice.

Nate

Nate,

You get what you pay for. Try Summit or Jeg's. 2k will buy you a basic crate engine, from what I've seen.

Aight, I'm back...sorry.

So this passed saturday I went up to PA to pick up my grandmother. 2.5 hour trip. Put it in sixth gear and kept it at about 75. So anywho. after about 2 hours either way, up or back home the SES light came on. Does this sound typical of the VSS which was on the list of things I had issues with a few weeks ago? As soon as the car was turned off and back on the light was gone, and I was good to go. I know VSS SES light tripping is only supposed to happen when the vehicle's in motion. Once again, no change in speedo readings, not inaccurate activity or anything of the like. I know your really good with LT1 responses Formula so any advice you can give me *along with anyone else* I'd greatly appreciate. Once again, thanks guys.

Nate