Need help in aligning the timing chain in the Inteprid 2.7 engine

Hi,

I am replacing the timing chain in my 2002 Inteprid 2.7 enegine. The new timing chain has 3 locations which painted yellow. Two locations painted yellow on single link. The third location has double yellow painted links. I think the double yellow painted links mean something. Where (left cam, right cam, crank) must I put the double yellow painted links? I am using Haynes manual but it does not reference the doule yellow painted links. I also notice that mark on the crankshaft doesnot line up with the mark on the engine wall if the #1 piston at the TDC. Any comments?
Thank you for your help.
TTnguy.

It's so simple once you know what your doing.. I'm assuming you already have the intake, valve covers, crank pulley(which requires a special puller), front cover, chain tensioners, etc. took off. If you look on the front side(facing you while at front of vehicle) of the secondary timing chains that connect the intake and exhaust cams, there's colored links on them as well. They must be lined up with the marks cast into the sprockets, and be in the 12 o'clock position(Not compared to the head, because it is angled sideways. You may have to turn the cams a few times to get all the marks to line up. If the cams or crank has been moved, don't worry. Once these marks line up on both heads, both cam gear pointers should be at 12 o'clock also, which is oddly 60 degrees past #1 TDC. (the pass. side cam gear may be slightly off because of valve spring tension on a cam lobe. just use a 3/8 ratchet and short extension to line it up with its colored link later). The crank sprocket has a mark on it that must line up with a mark on the oil pump housing behind it. It's hard to see and it's at about 5 o'clock. Once lined up, feed the chain in. Start by lining up the double links with the drivers side gear timing mark in between the colored links. Now make sure the mark on the crank sprocket lines up in the middle of the colored link. Hold good tension on the chain now by pulling the chain around the sprocket tight towards the pass. cam gear until you line up the pass. cam and install the tensioner arm. Hold tension on the chain after that with a screwdriver. Finish by aligning the mark on the pass. cam gear. When you let off of the ratchet used to turn the cam, the slack around the water pump will be pulled tight. I should mention that it's a VERY good idea to replace the water pump. If it goes out, the timing chain will slip again, or it will fill the oilpan with coolant...I've seen both. Go get the special oil tensioner tool at auto zone used to reset the tensioner. Insert the base(big end) into the tool and push the plunger in fully, then release it. Then place the plunger end into the tool and push down until it stops, now it's reset. Place it back into the tensioner hole, and replace the cover(On most models). Hold tension on the chain using a screwdriver behind the tensioner arm, and reach between the arm and the plunger with a screwdriver and depress the plunger fully into the base, then let go. It should pop out, if not keep trying. Once it pops out, rotate the engine clockwise ONLY! a bit to make sure all slack is out. If you rotate the engine backwards, it will throw off the timing. You can check your work by leaving off the timing cover after installing the intake, valve covers, coils, etc. and pry against the tensioner arm to hold tension on the chain, remove the fuel pump relay and the coil fuse from the underhood fusebox. Have a buddy crank over the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. Now the tensioner is partially pressurized. After this you can re-install the relay and fuse and breifly start the engine without the harmonic balancer(DON'T rev it up!!) and front cover to very you didn't mess up on the timing. This saves time if you have to tear the engine back down. WOW, this needs a sticky....If you need help with anything else, I've spent the past 3 weeks working on/rebuilding the beloved 2.7 intrepid, and they're burnt into memory....