Possible fuel leak...

I just completed the Intake Manifold Gasket replacement last week.

Now, I think I smell gasoline in the garage when the van comes home. After it has been sitting for a while, the smell goes away. Just now, I went out and turned the key on (to pressurize the system) and I smelled gasoline again.

How do you check for a gasoline leak and where would you check first? The only thing in the fuel system I disconnected was the entry to the fuel rail. (I wish I hadn't. The Haynes Manual said to disconnect it, but it wasn't really necessary for the job.) I looked at that as best I could with a flashlight, and I didn't see any drips or anything. However, fuel would probably evaporate before it would drip.

And don't tell me to check with a match. :)

In the meantime, I'm keepin the garage well-ventilated.

I really don't think anyone would tell you to use a match to test it. Open your hood and have someone turn the key on while you are watching the connections while shining a bright light on the connections. When the car is cold it should leak and you should see the drip. There is an o-ring inside the connection at the fuel rail, if it is damaged or not in the proper place you will have a leak. You will probably need to remove the fuel line again and replace the o-ring. Before reinstalling coat it with vasoline, this will keep it soft and help it to seal correctly.

Did you disconnect the injectors from the rail ??? I left them in the rail but had to replace O-rings on the intake side of the injectors (Had small gas leak). Also had a fuel leak on the input side of the rail, Gasket was not sitting properly so replaced it.

No fuel leaks now

Did you disconnect the injectors from the rail ??? I left them in the rail but had to replace O-rings on the intake side of the injectors (Had small gas leak). Also had a fuel leak on the input side of the rail, Gasket was not sitting properly so replaced it.

No fuel leaks now

On the input side of the rail, are you talking about the o-ring there? I don't remember a gasket...

Also, I did not remove the injectors from the rail. I'm really hoping an injector isn't leaking as I would like to avoid disassembly. I've seen enough of this engine for a while.

Hufhouse, Sorry O ring @ Intake side at Rail ( closet to fire wall), If this was leaking as mine was It was shooting out, sounds like the injectors did not seat well into the intake manifold, Mine was leaking just enough to smell it.

I know you already have the van back together but this could be the reason your not seing the leak its evaporating off the manifold...


Try using a small flashlight ( maglite) I was able to see at least 4 of the injectors where they seated the intake.

I found the source of the leak, but I need some advice.

There is a little puddle of gasoline right next to the fuel injector for the #3 cylinder.

When I did the intake manifold gasket, I did not remove the injectors from the rail.

So, is the leak most likely from the o-ring where the injector goes into the manifold?

Also, do I have to remove everything (ignition module, electrical stuff, EGR valve, etc.) to get back down to the fuel injectors? Or, can I leave some stuff attached to the plenum and just block it up out of the way?

Also, do I have to remove everything (ignition module, electrical stuff, EGR valve, etc.) to get back down to the fuel injectors? Or, can I leave some stuff attached to the plenum and just block it up out of the way?You'll have to remove the EGR, intake, MAP sensor/bracket, ignition module bracket, plugs. You'll also have to unplug a variety of sensors.

When you remove the upper intake, you'll also have to disconnect the coolant hose going to the throttle body. If you are quick, you can pop off the hoses and slip a length of hose across the open ends, minimizing coolant loss without having to drain the entire coolant system.

Aw, shucks.

So, if I replace the o-rings on the injectors and the fuel rail connection, do you think it'll be fixed? I guess I'm just worried that there might be some kind of leak where the injector connects to the rail, even though I never took that apart.

Update: I just went and bought all of the o-rings. I looked at the Haynes Manual, and it looks like it will only make sense to replace all of them once I get this apart if I want to ensure no further leaks.

Aw, shucks.

So, if I replace the o-rings on the injectors and the fuel rail connection, do you think it'll be fixed? I guess I'm just worried that there might be some kind of leak where the injector connects to the rail, even though I never took that apart.

Update: I just went and bought all of the o-rings. I looked at the Haynes Manual, and it looks like it will only make sense to replace all of them once I get this apart if I want to ensure no further leaks.


Have you had time to put these O-Rings on? If so did they fix the problem? I am having the same problems.
Thanks.

Yes. I put them on over the weekend, and it seems to have solved the fuel leak. However, I now have a "Service Engine Soon" light on that is throwing a P0171 code. The "AutoZoner" told me to try some fuel injector cleaner, so I'm giving that a few days. I'm also going to do a little search on this board for P0171 and see what I find. I guess it means it is running lean, which I am guessing means that I might have fouled one of the injectors. That's a total guess at this point.

I really think my fuel leak was on the input to the fuel rail. I don't think I tightened that enough. When I tightened it this time, I hit a point where it became hard to turn, then it loosened and the nut tightened all the way up to the rail. I think I stopped last time when it became hard to turn because I didn't want to bend anything. Consequently, I don't think it was on far enough.

Anyway, thanks for asking. Now, I have a new case to solve!

Remove and clean the mass air flow sensor by spraying it with some electronics cleaner and then clear the code to see what happens. A dirty MAF can cause a lean condition.

How do I clear the code? I don't have a scanner, and AutoZone isn't allowed to clear it.

I tried pulling the fuses for anything labeled "PCM" for a while...well more than 30 seconds. That's what the Haynes Manual said to do. It didn't work.

How do I clear the code? I don't have a scanner, and AutoZone isn't allowed to clear it.

I tried pulling the fuses for anything labeled "PCM" for a while...well more than 30 seconds. That's what the Haynes Manual said to do. It didn't work.

I think I figured it out. I just disconnected the battery overnight, took off the MAF sensor and cleaned it like GTP Dad said, put everything back together and so far, no SES light.

We'll see. Stay tuned.