Well this is great....

So figuring buying a 7 bolt from slow boy racing would be a good idea, I call the parents and they say it will be ok to order after the 22nd. I call them back telling them how much its gonna be after already telling them its 5400 for the motor, just to mention its 200 for the 7 bolt parts and 300 for shipping...and now all of a sudden they cant do it for atleast another 6 months. So Im annoyed and I asked them why they said I could do this 2 weeks ago and they just said I cant now...WTF! I try to explain why Im annoyed and I get bitched at for wanting to spend that much for another 9 or 10 years on a new engine. Anyone know about loans, like if I took out a 2 or 3 grand loan what would interest be, monthly payments and crap, even just an idea of everything, my budget is real small for monthly payments.

Why are you gonna go with a 7 bolt and put that much money into it? If i was about to drop 5k or more into a motor it had better be a 6 bolt. lol

$5400 for a fucking 7 bolt... You have got to be shitting me! I've got about $1400 less than that into my 6 bolt (head and block) and the motor should stay together to about 900hp.

I suggest looking somewhere else and start looking at 6 bolt motors. Damn.

I dont really have time for a rebuild, how long should my engine last running at 120, 110, 110, 110 compression? And will I be able to make a 1600 mile trip in a month?

it depends on why your compression is so low. Did you do a wet test? How about a running test? If its your rings you should be ok, just have to turn the boost up a little to get more compression in there:lol:.

I can't answer your question, but here is something I can comment on: if you are replacing the entire motor, please, do it once and do it right...6-bolt it. There are complete stock 6-bolt motors for sale on EBay, anywhere from $1200 to $2500. Don't get stuck paying all that money for something you know you'll regret...crankwalk ain't pretty. Don't risk it like that, just my 2 cents, because you'll want to kill yourself if you do get CW down the line.

Well I was looking around for a walkthrough on swapping a 6 bolt, is it that much harder? And my wet tests were the same about 120, 115, 110, 110

built motor crankwalking = http://www.les-smileys.com/smiley/Smiley/Violent/suicide.gif

Well I was looking around for a walkthrough on swapping a 6 bolt, is it that much harder? And my wet tests were the same about 120, 115, 110, 110
Do a leak down test and figure out where your problem is. Sounds like valves to me though.

Depending on how many miles it has, it's probably the rings. Usually the rings start to leak before anything else does. And I would NEVER put $5400 into a 7-bolt, and why do you need such a built motor? You're running a 14b, the stock motor will hold up on that for 200k+ miles. Unless you're building a track only car, just buy a stock 6-bolt and do the swap, it's not hard at all.

Depending on how many miles it has, it's probably the rings. Usually the rings start to leak before anything else does. And I would NEVER put $5400 into a 7-bolt, and why do you need such a built motor? You're running a 14b, the stock motor will hold up on that for 200k+ miles. Unless you're building a track only car, just buy a stock 6-bolt and do the swap, it's not hard at all.
Unless his rings are really bad the compression would have been higher on the wet test

Wet tests don't work correctly on flat top pistons, only dome style. All it does in flat top pistons is take up more volume, that's why you'll see compression numbers go up slightly.

Well my suggestion is still to do a leak down test and pin point the culprit that way you know for sure what the problem is

You could if you wanted to, but when I rebuild one part of a motor, I end up re-building the whole thing anyways, but that's just a personal preference.

I doubt you will be able to get such a small loan. I already tried to get one for $3000 not too long back and they just laughed at me. They said 5k is the smallest they would do, but that was just Wells Fargo though...Good luck!

some banks will give small loans like that

jacksonautomachine.com can do more than you can ask for in buying an engine for half that price you should look into it.

Well, I was also lookin around on ebay and found a few links, this one in particular I like a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4614053329&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1

Just out of curisosity, did you guys go to auto school or is it just from hand on experience?

Well, I was also lookin around on ebay and found a few links, this one in particular I like a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4614053329&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1
But it's still a 7 bolt... It's not even built and its 2 grand. I would think you could find a cheap 6 bolt somewhere and rebuild it and have like 4 grand in it and get your moneys worth. We pick up 6 bolts all the time around here for like 500 bucks... So why are they charging so much for 7 bolts on ebay? :screwy:

I just dont haev time to do a rebuild, unless my car can last until the summer, then ill have time but until then...

Just out of curisosity, did you guys go to auto school or is it just from hand on experience? Whats the difference? ;)

My loan for the Cavy was for $4000, I think you can get a loan for any amount of money. Definately do 6 bolt. I would just buy it piece by piece and put it together when you have time. You should be able to do a damn good build on your own engine for $3000.

Some 6 bolts I found on ebay for $500-$1150:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-92-Eclipse-Laser-Talon-Galant-4G63-Turbo-Engine_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ8038 487388QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-GSX-AWD-2-0-TURBO-ENGINE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ8038 386364QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-92-MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-GALANT-JAPANESE-ENGINE-4G63_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ803857 0939QQrdZ1

you could always take a 5k loan. Then just on your first payment pay back what you don't use for the motor.

Do a leak down test and figure out where your problem is. Sounds like valves to me though.
Doubtful... 99% of the time when a valve is bent the compression results are not that close together. If they were 120-30-110-0 then I would start to think its valves.

It could be a number of things... Head gasket, Cracked head, bad piston rings. Bent valves would be the last thing I would be looking at. Run a leak down test before you go out and buy a new motor. If it is something simple as a head gasket, why blow a couple grand on a motor that isnt any better than the one you have in the car... (7 bolt)

Unless his rings are really bad the compression would have been higher on the wet test
Not necessarly... Usually on high milage engines, cylinders start to oval out in the middle and bottom of the cylinder due to the force that the rod puts on the piston when the piston is moving upward in the cylinder. The rod actually pushes the piston against the cylinder wall at the bottom of the cylinder and upwards. There for after however many miles of wear and tear, the lower half of the cylinder doesnt seat correctly with the piston rings allowing compression by so your compression is lower than normal. Pretty common with turbo'd vehicles, especially if it was run hard.

Just out of curisosity, did you guys go to auto school or is it just from hand on experience?
Both.

Just out of curisosity, did you guys go to auto school or is it just from hand on experience?
Both as well

I had auto and advanced auto in high school, but other than that I learn by reading, thinking about it, and doing it.

Doubtful... 99% of the time when a valve is bent the compression results are not that close together. If they were 120-30-110-0 then I would start to think its valves.
Never said it was bent valves, could just be a bad seat and in that case no the compression wouldn't look like 120-30-110-0 it would be more like 120-115-100-90 since a bad seat wouldn't cause a whole lot of air to pass



It could be a number of things... Head gasket, Cracked head, bad piston rings. Bent valves would be the last thing I would be looking at.
If it was a head gasket or cracked head usually he would have other problems associated with it such as white smoke(burning coolant) and it probably wouldn't cause all the cylinders to be low


Not necessarly... Usually on high mileage engines, cylinders start to oval out in the middle and bottom of the cylinder due to the force that the rod puts on the piston when the piston is moving upward in the cylinder. The rod actually pushes the piston against the cylinder wall at the bottom of the cylinder and up wards. There for after however many miles of wear and tear, the lower half of the cylinder doesn't seat correctly with the piston rings allowing compression by so your compression is lower than normal. Pretty common with turbo'd vehicles, especially if it was run hard.
Thats why you do a compression test on tdc to try and eliminate losing compression due to cylinder wear

I got to thinking just now and with low compression on every cylinder and it runing like crap his timing could be off a little and it would have the same effect.

Well recently when I blew out my balance shaft belt + CPS, timing was perfect to my knowledge, but its all perfectly in time now, I just need to get on all the other belts now.

Just out of curisosity, did you guys go to auto school or is it just from hand on experience?

- learned most of the little i know on my own. You just have to realize if you ask questions, take your time you won't screw it up. Plus when you have to drive to get to work the next day thats a good incentive to take your time.

Well I think I really need to take an auto tech class because yeah I've read how to do everything but when it actually comes down to doing it I'm pretty unfamiliar. I need to get some more $ (soooo lazy and poor) and start installing/doing mantenance because if my motor walked right now I'd be f*cked big time. I hope my head gasket does blow just so I'm forced to learn how to replace it, lol.

You guys really know your mech. shit though. Another informative thread. :thumbsup:

Im currently goin to school for auto and Ive had a lot of learning experience on my car too.

I'm 1/3 through auto school. Its nice because since I'm a senior in high school I get to go to college for free while I'm in high school :) I've had full training in clutches and manual transmissions, basic electrical, basic fuel systems, and general auto and right now I'm taking suspensions, alignments, brakes and engines. Its fun and I recommend it to everyone.