Slowboy FMIC

Ok i got a Slowboy front mount. I'm almost completely done with the install and the 16g swap. This frount mount is HUGE. Only thing that was a bitch was chopping out the metal right under the passenger headlight to get the piping through. So after i got it all mounted up, we started on the 16g swap. Well i broke my damn oil feed line that i made a while ago for my 16g on the Spyder. I broke the fitting on the oil filter housing end. So now i have to either build my own line again or wait a week or two and order one online.

The only concern i have is the foglights...The intercooler bolts right where the fog lights bolt to which means no more foglights. I still want the foglights there so there isn't empty space. Has anyone had any experience with a slowboy frount mount? If so, are there any possibilites to still use the foglights? Also, I'll get some pics of the intercooler soon.

Thanks,

Steve

From what I hear, the fogs have to go. You could probably put the front casing for the fogs back it and have them be non-functional. A chewing gum and a hacksaw would be all you need.

I'm pretty sure you can't use the foglights anymore.

Also you should have taken some pictures during the install! :)

I can't wait to see pictures.

it's a badass intercooler eh? No way that I know if keeping the stock fogs. I'm gonna build my own foglight enclosures sometime in the near future because I miss the fogs, but once you put the front bumper on you'll realize you can't use those holes. Look at my sig pic. The driver side foglight hole has that silicone bend right there, no chance of putting the foglight there. I'll post when I make my own enclosure.

Also, what J-pipe are you using? My extremepsi Jpipe wasn't going to fit, we had to cut it and reweld it to rotate it. As far as I know, the slowboy J-pipe is the only one that works, it puts the pipe right about where a downward firing turbo is.

Yes the foglights can be saved.. You can either modify teh brackets by triming them for the stock brackets.. I have also seen some people make their own brackets out of 1" strip aluminum to make their own..

Hope this helps

Mark
SBR

nice...hopefully i can still find a way to use them. i still haven't got it all back together yet because my oil feed line fitting broke the other night. so i went to summit, got a new one, got it on the line and the other fitting broke! so yesterday i went back to summit, got another fitting and got it on the line...now i just need to get some kerosene for the garage since the temp here is around 10F.

i know what u mean i can't stand working on cars in the cold....

when we built our house we made sure the garage was heated for this reason. It has a small gas heater there and we run propane from the house out there. The heater keeps the garage around 45 all the time to keep paint and stuff from freezing and then before you are ready to work head to the garage turn up the heat to 65 go out 10 minutes later and work in a teeshirt :)

:grinyes: Thats awsome

it is. The only remaining problem is we have 5 cars and a 3 car garage. My dads truck, my moms car, and my dads sunday go to church car sit in the garage. So regardless of it being heated or not if you havn't pulled your car in ahead of time the metal is really really cold.

Now that I have leather seats I freeze in the mornings.

well i just finished the project...haven't got the front bumper on yet, though. when i took the bumper off, a couple of the bolts that bolt the bumper to the fenders snapped off so now i have to find a way to get the bolts out of the bottom of the fenders. anyway i still took it for a test drive at 4 in the morning, heh. made sure nothing was leaking, and rolled her out. let the motor warm up completely, made sure oil pressure and temp were all good...got on it a couple times, pulled decent. the last time i slammed it, the LICP blew off so i coasted back to the garage. (i had to rig up a LICP because i don't have an actual one for the 16g yet). re-connected it, checked for anything leaking again, went out for another try. it's running 11psi right now and i got to 110 pretty quick. it has a lot more top-end now. only thing i have to complain about is the 1st gen BOV i'm using is leaking. it's my friends so i don't want to crush it. i was told that you can use a greddy on a 1g flange is you drill the holes closer. is this correct? my car doesn't like to idle very good, and you can feel the air coming out of the bov. i would re-circ it, but the position of the bov is different now with the new UICP.

the last thing that i'm kind of concerned about is the turbo. when i was taking it off the spyder, one of the bolts stripped out the threads (one of the bolts that hold the header to the turbo). well i tried tapping it, but that wasn't happening. the other three are perfect, and when i put the 4th one in i just cross threaded it since the bolt and the threads on the turbo were fucked anyway. from what i could see there was no gap of any kind, i was just worried about it leaking exhaust before getting to the turbo.

so tomorrow i need to find a way to get my front bumper back on, see if the greddy bov will really work with a 1g flange, and maybe turn the boost up to 13 - 14. i ran 15 on the spyder with the 16g, think i'll be ok at 14 with the FMIC? i just don't wanna run too lean.

The FMIC will not make you run leaner; it will actually prevent you more from knocking by doing its job. 15 should be safe, just don't molest the car until you have a logger.

the last thing that i'm kind of concerned about is the turbo. when i was taking it off the spyder, one of the bolts stripped out the threads (one of the bolts that hold the header to the turbo). well i tried tapping it, but that wasn't happening. the other three are perfect, and when i put the 4th one in i just cross threaded it since the bolt and the threads on the turbo were fucked anyway. from what i could see there was no gap of any kind, i was just worried about it leaking exhaust before getting to the turbo.

Sometimes you need to improvise, i would clean up the area where the manifold and the turbo meet really well. Run it for a couple of days and see if any residue forms around the flanges.

ok now i have a bigger problem...the front bumper refuses to go back on because the FMIC is sticking out too far.....i'm about to give up and put the sidemount back on...

any ideas?

cut some of the bumper away

your going to have to do some trimming to get it to fit right

What's the best to trim the front bumper with so the paint won't get messed up? I was thinking of using an air cutter...

either that or a rotory tool or I'm sure you could do it by hand with a tin snips or a hack saw or something. Regardless of what you do make sure to put a piece of tape over the line you want to cut on the painted side and it will help prevent scratches and flaking

I just used an air cutter and then a rotary tool to smooth it out. I was nervous at first about messing something up but it actually wasnt all that bad. You will have to take off a pretty good amount. I would reccommend trying to cut a little bit off at a time then test fit it until you have taken off the right amount. This will make it look like a proffesional job.

I found that using cutofff wheels and the like did a poor job and made some nasty fumes. If I had to do it again, I would use a rotary tool with a side cutting drill bit. You can buy the Rotozip bits and just stick them in a Dremel instead of buying the whole Rotozip tool for 70 bucks ;)

The greddy bolt holes are closer together. I used a 1g valve on a greddy flange and had to drill and tap the BOV to match. In your case it might be easier since you just have to modify the flange rather than the valve, as long as the tube doesnt interfere.

The SBR FMIC is pretty badass. I went from a Victory PErformance SS to that one, and it seemed to do better, though I can't remember the numbers now. That was the unit I used when I ran the 11.3 at 126 in the 2g.

+1 for the SBR fmic being badass ;)