Timing belt change

I have a 94 trooper w/183K. I bought it brand new in 94.

I am in the middle of changing my timing belt and have never done it before. I was getting that very loud knock. Do I need to remove the power steering pump? I can't get the damn tb cover off.

Any other tips for the change?

Yes- I beleive the PS pump has to be removed or atleast pivot it out of the way. A TB cover fastener is hidden back there. Is this your first TB changeout? There's lot of info & suggestions on this job in this and the rodeo forum.

Joel

How did you guess it was my first TB changeout? It's really my first major wrench turning experience.

I figured out the PS pump thing - I rotated it out of the way (there was a hidden bolt).

Reading these forums has given me the confidence to try this repair. It may be a little ambitious, but the timing belt is off and it's too late to turn back now.

Another question. . . do I need to remove the spark plugs in order to remove compression so I can align the camshaft pulleys. Also, the book says there are alignment marks on the valve cover - I don't see them.

It's good to see the TB can last that long! :cheers: Removing the sparkplugs would allow you to move the cam sprockets easier, but you really want to make sure NOT to move the cam sprockets. Especially out of phase with each other :banghead: . Personally, what I would do is mark the position of both cam sprockets and the crank sprocket with a paint marker just before I removed the TB. At that mileage, if you plan on keeping the truck, I'd changeout the waterpump while you are in there, and replacing the TB tensioner pulley pushrod assembly is a must! Also test spin the tensioner pulley and idler pulley to see if they should be replaced- I'd do those too at given the age/mileage.

G/luck!
Joel

I think I really screwed up. I removed the tb and proceeded to try to align the white line and the notch by turning the cam pulleys (yes both) before I read your answer.

I read a lot of the posts and never saw one that said to mark the positions. I guess this really points out that I have no idea. I hope this is not a fatal error.

btw, I am replacing everything suggested. I just want to get it back together and running.

Can someone translate this for me? I think it means that the cams will be hard to get to the alignment marks becuase the pistons will be mid stroke.

"Set the timing sprockets so that the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks align with the timing marks on the oil pump and front plate. When the timing marks are align, no pistons are at TDC for the compression stroke. Valve damage may result if the sprockets and belt are out of alignment"

I wish I could help with the translation, but I've never done a TB on a 3.2/3.5L. Never fear the 'valve damage' thing because all isusu 3.2/3.5's are non-interference. You can't smash a valve. Worst case, you'll have to pull the valve covers and match cam lobe position with TDC for each bank. I don't have a manual so I dunno the specs for that either! You cant do damage aside from needing more time & resources.

G/luck
Joel

Thanks much for the help. That last part was kind of what I was looking for. As long as I can't damage it.

Well there is a happy ending to the story. I lined up the marks with the dots like the reference manuals said, put on the timing belt and held my breath.

The sucker runs like a top! My wife commented that it has never sounded quieter.

The total repair:
timing belt
tensioner pulley
tensioner push rod assembly
water pump
three new belts
flush cooling system
oil change

$300

When I took off the tensioner push rod it felt fine to me but when I got the newone, I really saw the difference. I could push down the old one with one finger. The water pump seemed fine when I got it off, but I would hate to have it fail in another 5000 miles.

I've been pricing out parts online to do this myself on my 95 3.6. The Timing belt kits say "does not include cam tensioner hydrolic assembly"

What is that? Is that the "tensioner push rod assembly?"

I'm not really sure what parts I need and what parts I'll just be wasting money on.

mrmax13, Where did you get your parts?

Thanks

"Set the timing sprockets so that the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks align with the timing marks on the oil pump and front plate. When the timing marks are align, no pistons are at TDC for the compression stroke. Valve damage may result if the sprockets and belt are out of alignment"

I'm replacing all the timing components and water pump in my 96 Trooper.

I have the camshaft timing marks lined up with the marks on the cover...in my case the the crankshaft mark is not even close to being lined up with the 0-10-20 timing marks next to the crankshaft...is this correct? I have not taken any components off except the TB cover. Please advise. I appreciate any help.

I got my stuff from autopartswarehouse.com

They actually did not have the cheapest prices, but they matched prices another website (autopartsworld.com). I did this because the "world" people gave me a hard time with my order and I had to cancel it. The "warehouse" folks were great.

GMB Timing Belt Tensioner Price: $58.83 Qty: 1 Part #: A5030-131784

T-Belt Tension Adjuster Price: $70.95 Qty: 1 Part #: A5330-62258

The tensioner adjuster was an actual Isuzu part.

I'm replacing all the timing components and water pump in my 96 Trooper.

I have the camshaft timing marks lined up with the marks on the cover...in my case the the crankshaft mark is not even close to being lined up with the 0-10-20 timing marks next to the crankshaft...is this correct? I have not taken any components off except the TB cover. Please advise. I appreciate any help.


I'm not sure I can offer much expert help. As you can see by my previous cries for help, I did not accomplish the change in the recommended way. I can only tell you what I did and advise to proceed at your own risk.

It may be that if you spin the crank enough, everything will eventually line up. I took the t-belt off and spun everything to line up and put the new belt on. The experts out there are probably cringing at this method and may be able to tell you what could happen.

I can tell you that after a couple thousand more miles my trooper is still running better than it has in years.

I also did finally find a great reference website and made a great $20 investment at
http://www.chiltondiy.com/index.aspx

Sorry I could not be of more help.

Mark

I called Autozone on Friday. They have Cam tensioner kit. Supposibly it is everything needed except the T-belt. It has all the idlers and tensioners included. They wanted $179.00 for this. Belt they wanted $49.99, and the W-pump $73.99. Has anybody used this? Sounds like an aftermarket setup.

I'm not sure I can offer much expert help. As you can see by my previous cries for help, I did not accomplish the change in the recommended way. I can only tell you what I did and advise to proceed at your own risk.

It may be that if you spin the crank enough, everything will eventually line up. I took the t-belt off and spun everything to line up and put the new belt on. The experts out there are probably cringing at this method and may be able to tell you what could happen.

I can tell you that after a couple thousand more miles my trooper is still running better than it has in years.

I also did finally find a great reference website and made a great $20 investment at
http://www.chiltondiy.com/index.aspx

Sorry I could not be of more help.

Mark

Thank you so much for your reply. One question for you...You lined up the two camshaft pulleys with their marked positions...did you line up the crankshaft pulley with the 0 timing mark?

Again thanks for your reply.

Mike

I have done several t-belts. Never on a Isuzu product. What I like to do is get #1 piston at tdc and line up the tdc timing mark. I then like to take some fingernail polish or whiteout and make a identifible mark on the camshaft gears and crank pully that can be line up again. Then disassemble and then you can get it where you want it. I take a straight edge between the cam bolts and mark the inside (9:00 and 3:00 O clock for DOHC). Mark the crank at 12:00 O clock. Never had any problem doing it this way. For SOHC just straight edge between bolts and mark. Most of the time you do not even need a manual to do it this way.

Thank you so much for your reply. One question for you...You lined up the two camshaft pulleys with their marked positions...did you line up the crankshaft pulley with the 0 timing mark?

Again thanks for your reply.

Mike

Yes. I had to search forever for the little damn mark for the crank. Turned out it was right next to the thing. I lined up the marks exactly the way the books said.

Sorry for the late reply.

Mark

Yes. I had to search forever for the little damn mark for the crank. Turned out it was right next to the thing. I lined up the marks exactly the way the books said.

Sorry for the late reply.

Mark

I just finished mine and the mark on the crank is hard to find, the chilton book did say where to look. Read haynes book and its more detailed and it tells you right were it is. Now my 93 trooper S runs like a champ.

Did the tb R&R go without hitch? My wife's 2000 Trooper now has 100k miles, so it's time to replace the tb. I've done this on Mitsubishi and other cars but never on an Isuzu. So I think I know what I'm doing, but the real question is, do I need a repair manual that specifies all of the details that are not obvious? Comments from anyone please.