Help me learn about Ball Joints?

The kind in the front suspension of a '96 Lincoln Towncar, that is. What were you thinking?!:eek:

Yes, they squeak, the wheels rock (driver does too) and can't do an alignment. 240 thousand "loved every mile of 'em" miles. Time for upper and lower ball joints on both sides. I plan on doing the work myself, unless you folks talk me out of it. C'mon, talk me out of it. Please?

First, The alignment shop said I've got a bad Idler arm and a bent Center Link. So, I replaced them. While into it, last weekend, I noticed the Pitman was real sloppy. Replaced it. (That job alone was a real Pit! Back to the Alignment shop and now they say Bad Ball Joints. So, now I get to learn about that. Gee, and I was so close to it last weekend!:frown:

Q: Upper Ball Joint bushings or entire Upper Control Arm?

Q: Lower is Control Arm only. Can't do just the Ball Joint bushings, correct?

Q: Will I need the special C Clamp tool and the adapters if I only replace the Upper Ball Joint bushings? Or is that tool only needed if I do the whole Upper Control Arm? Do I need it for the Lower Control Arm?

Q: New front shocks are a "get-go". Any recommendations as to what brand or type? Or simply replace with same like-and-kind?

Q: Springs are usually fine, right? Should I be looking at new front springs also?

Q: Stories? I welcome any hard luck and/or success stories you may have about your experience in doing this job.

Thank you!

I HAVE A 95 TC.JUST REPLACED THE LOWER BALL JOINTS BECAUSE ONE SEPERATED(211,000 MILES)NOT TOO BAD.THE LOWER ONCE YOU REMOVE THE HUB ASSEMBLY JUST KNOCKS OUT WITH A HAMMER FROM THE TOP.IT ISNT BOLTED IN,OR SCREWED IN.ALL THE PRESSURE ON THE LOWER JOINT ARE PULLING UP ON IT.THE PROBLEM I HAD WAS GETTING THE NEW ONE ALL THE WAY BACK IN.:banghead:WAS NOT FUN.BECAUSE YOU DONT WANT TO BEAT A NEW ONE WITH A HAMMER:nono:ANYWAY USED A SOCKET THAT WAS SAME SIZE AND TAPPED IT IN.TOOK ABOUT TWO HOURS TOTAL.LOWER BALL JOINTS WERE 18.99 AT AUTOZONE.

'96 Lincoln Towncar

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Lot's of intuitive Q's :) Sounds like you have the Factory Service Manual and you don't believe what it says :)

If not, I can send you a CD version that can help with all those Q's....

I'd post all those procedures from the CD but that's alot of data... I've found that the better universal suspension tools also work fine on the '96 Town Car as well, no need for the Ford specific tools.

Pesonally I use a 20ton press for all this kind of stuff so I can't say how normal people do it :)

If it were me, I'd replace everything rubber, and everything that moves, except for the springs and shocks. If the front end was low or the shocks leaking that would be a different story. Mine are still young.

I'd want it smooth and quiet again.

All those suspension tools can be borrowed from the Kragens, Autozones, etc. Their incentive is that you'll buy their parts too.

Gee, Guys, I posted that note back in Feb! Being a 'git-r-dun' kinda guy, I got-er-done.

Did all 4 ball joints. I hammered out the lower ball joints and pressed the new ones in with a combo floor jack and large diameter socket. I bought an Idler arm puller and a pitman arm puller (cheap ones. Glad they didn't break!). Boy, when those arms pop'd... !!! Scared me a good one! Thought the whole Ford Company was coming down!

I should have replaced the Tie Rods (money issue, ya know) but I did replace the Center Link. Shop said Center Link was bent but when I pulled it out and matched it up with the new one, ??? looked good to me! Still, I put in the new one.

Couldn't get that far without doing front shocks. Went with a medium grade and I'm pleased with their performance and comfortable ride. Really thought about the Police Car shocks, but reasoned it out that I'm not in a sports car, not trying to out-corner anyone (anymore) and the ride may not be as cushy.

I hate to put back used brakes & rotors, so I got new ones. All 4 of em.

When I got done, NICE! SMOOTH! STRAIGHT! Feels like she did back when... when... well, back then.

I'm a happy Towncar Driver!

Gee, Guys, I posted that note back in Feb! Being a 'git-r-dun' kinda guy, I got-er-done.
I'm a happy Towncar Driver!

Holy Crap, I didn't even notice the OP date...:crying: wonder where I was back then :uhoh:


When I got done, NICE! SMOOTH! STRAIGHT! Feels like she did back when... when... well, back then.
I'm a happy Towncar Driver!
Nice work, thanks for the old school suspension lesson :)

I HAVE A 95 TC.JUST REPLACED THE LOWER BALL JOINTS BECAUSE ONE SEPERATED(211,000 MILES)NOT TOO BAD.THE LOWER ONCE YOU REMOVE THE HUB ASSEMBLY JUST KNOCKS OUT WITH A HAMMER FROM THE TOP.IT ISNT BOLTED IN,OR SCREWED IN.ALL THE PRESSURE ON THE LOWER JOINT ARE PULLING UP ON IT.THE PROBLEM I HAD WAS GETTING THE NEW ONE ALL THE WAY BACK IN.:banghead:WAS NOT FUN.BECAUSE YOU DONT WANT TO BEAT A NEW ONE WITH A HAMMER:nono:ANYWAY USED A SOCKET THAT WAS SAME SIZE AND TAPPED IT IN.TOOK ABOUT TWO HOURS TOTAL.LOWER BALL JOINTS WERE 18.99 AT AUTOZONE.

I've got an '01 Towncar with 86,000 miles, and a lower balljoint speparated yesterday. My problem is getting the bolt out of the steering knuckle without the aid of the pressure from the spring. How did that work for you?

I Used A Floor Jack To Jack It Back Up And Together.than It Had Enough Pressure To Remove The Nut From The Top.the Lower Part Then Knocked Out With A Socket As It Was Pressed In.