choke problems are back

88 brougham 305 v8 4bbl...700-R4

okay once again my choke is messing up.since i last posted ive gotten a new carb. put on and they adjusted it right and evrything.the old one was soooo dirty and the metering rod was shot.
okay the problem just started about a week after they put it on and what it does is it idles VERY high and when ishut the engine off it runs on for a very long time.i took it back and they adjusted the choke pulloff and messed with the idle a bit and it was fine for about two days.then ever since then its been idling high.they told me to let it run for 5 minutes then press on the gas and it should go down....but it doesnt. also, there is a annoying rattling sound coming from where it sounds like the cat. on the right side and when i stop it doesnt do it,only when its coasting or accelerating. its just now starting to get VERY VERY bad gas milage(driving for about 20 min. and it takes a quarter of a tank)
oh yea, every so often it makes this sound from the engine LIKE an axe getting sharpened if thats a good enough description.if anybody could help me with this problem it would VERY much help me on keeping the car before junking the bastard.the body and evrything is in VERY good shape and interior its just that damn engine.the check engine just now is starting to come on and turns off and turns back on.and also there is a buzzing sound from under the dash near the left side by the gas guage.

From what I understand, your run-on (aka dieseling) and you poorer gas mileage could be caused by a buildup of carbon in the engine. Good idea would be to use some cleaner such as SeaFoam, GM TopEnd cleaner, or BG fuel induction cleaner. These products should help to remove that carbon if there is a buildup in the engine/fuel induction system.

well the only time it runs on is when that choke is still engaged.when i push the choke button down on the side of the carb to disengage it,it idles fine and doesnt run on. oh yea one more thing,it likes to go in and out of overdrive in 40-50MPH speeds and when i coast to 50MPH,its like the over drive doesnt wanna disengage so it clugs until i tap the brake and gas it.

Your transmission problem is likely TCC solenoid failure. Did you ever check to see if there's an electrical potential at the choke wire when the key is turned on? Is the wire hooked up? The run-on is due to the high idle speed as the throttle is resting on the curb idle cam while the choke is closed. You can alleviate this somewhat by turning down the curb idle speed (you'll see the screw near the choke, it's NOT the one on the choke pulloff). If you do, cold weather starting and keeping it running will be a bitch until the engine warms. Your economy will be very poor while you drive it with the choke closed as the engine is running extremely rich. Your catalytic converter and exhaust gas oxygen sensor are on the chopping block and will both likely need replaced.

How many miles on the car?

I'd say you need a new electric choke - I've had 'em go bad even after installing a new carb.

I've also had bad carbon buildup (seafoam rocks!). Until then you may wanna try premium fuel if you're not already using it.

What codes are you throwing?

To test for TCC solenoid. failure you can pull the plug on the side of the transmission. If the problem stops, then your TCC solenoid is bad. (Mine is...)

125,343 miles

yea i just went and took it to the place that replaced my carburetor and also rebuilt it and they adjusted the fast idle,the throttle cable i think, and the air/fuel mixture cuz it was runnin real rich.it stopped doing it then he turned the car off and started it back up 10 minutes later and it started to do it again.they told me that the choke pulloff wasnt working on the new carb advance auto gave me so they told me to let em take it off,take it back and get a new one that works,and put it on and i also need some solenoid/relay type thing on the top of the carb that they said was important because the computer reads it.

and cyrix, are you talking about the 4 or 5 wire solenoid thing on the right side of the tranny??its a 700-r4

125,343 miles

yea i just went and took it to the place that replaced my carburetor and also rebuilt it and they adjusted the fast idle,the throttle cable i think, and the air/fuel mixture cuz it was runnin real rich.it stopped doing it then he turned the car off and started it back up 10 minutes later and it started to do it again.they told me that the choke pulloff wasnt working on the new carb advance auto gave me so they told me to let em take it off,take it back and get a new one that works,and put it on and i also need some solenoid/relay type thing on the top of the carb that they said was important because the computer reads it.

and cyrix, are you talking about the 4 or 5 wire solenoid thing on the right side of the tranny??its a 700-r4

It's a 4-wire plug with three wires on it. It's on the driver's side, at the top of the lower case/pan flange near the back. You can remove the plug to check, but you can't drive the car for extended periods in overdrive at any speed - a locking torque converter has a lot of slip to it and if you're in OD and it's not locked, it will overheat the fluid and burn it and the transmission. The solenoid itself is easy to replace, once you take the pan off. This is for a 700R4/4L60, are you sure this is what you have? Those were generally available mainly on the 5.7 liter 9C1 cars, such as mine. I believe yours should have been delivered with a TH2004R. In the case of a 2004R, the TCC solenoid plug is on the side in the general same area as the 700R4. A 2004R pan will have two sumps and be somewhat long with a trapezoidal shape at the back. The 700R4 pan is nearly square.

My mechanic said it shouldn't hurt this car too much to drive without the lock-up due to the converter being a large, low stall one. He said that you run into trouble with V6's because they have smaller, higher stall converters since they lack the power of a V8. I'd still replace the TCC solenoid anyway...