cv boots/cv shaft

My CV boots are entirely broken.........and for some time now..

I hear a clicking sound when i am starting the car and turning it out of the parking lot.......not always but sometimes.....

The mechanic says its better to replace the CV complete assemby..
How can i figure out if just replacing the boots is enough or should i go for the complete assembly?

Thanks!!

If you hear a clicking noise, then the cv joints themselves have been damaged and the entire axle and joint needs to be replaced with a rebuilt one. With the lower cost of rebuilt axles today, it's almost the same money to replace the axle as it is to remove the axle and disassemble the cv joint and regrease it and replace the boots. It might be $130 to replace the boots vs. $180-$200 to replace the axle with a rebuit one.

Mike

Mike

If you hear a clicking noise, then the cv joints themselves have been damaged and the entire axle and joint needs to be replaced with a rebuilt one. With the lower cost of rebuilt axles today, it's almost the same money to replace the axle as it is to remove the axle and disassemble the cv joint and regrease it and replace the boots. It might be $130 to replace the boots vs. $180-$200 to replace the axle with a rebuit one.

Mike

Mike

180-200$ for one axle or both? If yes, then where can i find rebuilt axles?

You can buy rebuilt axles from just about any auto parts supply store ie, PepBoys, Autozone, etc. Should run $40-80. That's the entire assembly including inner and outer CV joints with boots.

As usual I agree with Mike, but this time with one exception. I bring this up because you don't specify if both left and right outer CV joints are clicking. Find an empty parking lot somewhere, roll down the windows, turn the wheel left and go in a circle a couple times. Then try it to the right. If you only hear the click turning one direction, the opposite sides outer cv joint is bad, ie, clicking turning left then the right joint is bad. That means one sides joint is still good. If the boot is torn and the CV joint is not "clicking" or does not have excessive play, you can replace the boot with what is called a split boot. You don't have to replace the axle assembly or CV joint. A split boot will wrap around the joint without having to remove the axle. Tiny screws or glue or both secure the boot. Again, if both left and right CV joints are clicking you have no choice but to change both axles. If only one side is clicking , change the axle on that side and concider a split boot for the non clicking side.

To be fair, you will find repair shops won't recommend split boots or refuse to install them. The glue or screws can come loose letting the grease spill out. That no doubt could happen. Or they'll say if the boot has been torn for quite a while, dirt has gotten into the grease in the joint and you'll never be assured of getting it all out if you try cleaning it. Granted I'm no mechanic but, it's been my experience (I've changed 4 axles and installed 5 split boots) that split boots hold up just as well as non-split boots. They've been on one car for over 100K miles and are still in one piece. They are the glued type. I changed both of them in a parking lot in about three hours. The key is to spend extra time cleaning and repacking the grease in the joint before you install the boot and to follow the installation instructions to the letter. By the way split boots cost $10-15. Please let us know how you did.

Thanks a bunch for the detailed reply.

The clikcking sounds is sort of rare........doesnt come every time.......I will check once more using that empty parking lot idea....

I also need to get my rotos and brake pads replaced.......I am just trying to minimize my repair cost. ..:)

180-200$ for one axle or both? If yes, then where can i find rebuilt axles?

That $180-$200 is for one rebuilt axle for one side, having it done professionally at a non-dealer shop.

RIP has given you a good test to do to determine if you are dealing with 1 or both axles. Give it a try.

In your original post you said:
"My CV boots are entirely broken.........and for some time now.."
That leads me to believe that you will need to replace both axles.

I have never tried the split boots that RIP has mentioned, with the glue. I have only seen the type with the snaps and from what I have heard, most people have not been too happy with the results of those. The glue type may be different. I'm sure the glued surfaces have to be kept extremely clean, if you are going to try them. If you hear clicking from both axles, then it's too late for any type of boot replacement. You will have to go with new axle(s).

Good luck.

Mike

If you want to replace the boot only, you have to thoroughly clean the joint and re-pack with grease. Or the joint will be worn very quickly. I can't see how can you do the cleaning with the axle still on the car. You have to take it off.

I have experience replacing 3 boots about 3-5 years ago. The reason why I would like to just replacing the boot is that the shafts are original. They last much longer than reman ones. And I found out the boots broken not too late and there was no noise at all. I always cleaned the joints thoroughly and repack with high temperature moly grease. They are still good so far.

Does anyone know how much labor would be reasonable for a mechanic to charge to replace.

1. both CV axles.
2. both front break rotors.

Thanks!!

Does anyone know how much labor would be reasonable for a mechanic to charge to replace.

1. both CV axles.
2. both front break rotors.

Thanks!!


Tk_Neo,

1. In my area (Chicago) a mechanic would charge about $100 per side for labor to remove and replace the axles.

2. Now that you have conquered the starter, I would recommend you do the rotors yourself. It really is easy. I'll give you a quick rundown of the job but you could always refer to the skinny at the top of this forum for the generation 3. Generation 3's and 4's are the same for front brakes:

Remove the wheel on each side.

Remove the caliper and hang it out of the way on some wire or coat hanger. I usually hang it on one of the rungs of the coil spring. It is 2 14MM head bolts. Use a wrench or a rachet wrench.

Now remove the caliper mounting bracket. Toyota refers to this as a Torque Plate in some of their descriptions. It's 2 17MM head bolts. Put the bracket aside but keep them oriented to which side they came from. They are different.

Now the rotor should pop off. If it is stuck on and light tapping front behind with a hammer doesn't break it loose, thread 2 bolts in to the 2 holes tapped near the center of the rotor and lever it off turning the bolts equally. It will break free. That's what those 2 threaded holes are there for.

That's it; after the tire has been removed, it's 2 14MM bolts to remove the caliper and 2 17MM bolts to remove the mounting bracket. Then take the rotor off.

If you are concerned about getting everything back properly and you have access to a digital camera, you can take a picture along each step so you know what it looked like before you removed it. That would just be for reassurance. You could also just do one side at a time so you have the other side to refer to if you have any questions or concerns.

If you are installing new rotors, rather than turning (cutting) these rotors, you will have to push the piston back in to the caliper. The new rotors will be a bit thicker and will require more clearance to get the caliper back on properly. Use a big c-clamp and one of the old pads or some other flat piece to lay accross the piston to do that. Just turn the c-clamp in slowly. Don't be concerned if you see some fluid come out of the top of the master cylinder and drip on the ground. That's normal.

Installation is just the reverse procedure. Just remember to pump the brake pedal before driving off. It might take 3 or 4 pumps of the pedal to return the pistons in the calipers to a point at which they apply enough pressure so the pads reach the rotors. Brake work, especially front disc brake work, is really one of the easier things you will do.

Mike

Mike, thanks for the reply.

I want to buy the rotors and breaks pads from NAPA and then replace them myself. Then i can ask a mechanic to replace the CV shaft.

I have a couple of questions.
1. what do you mean by Generation 3 and 4? Also, what sticky are you referring to?
2. I say the level of difficulty for starter was 3 (on a scale of 1 to 10 where 10 being max.). What do you think the level of difficult is for replacing the rotors. :)

Thanks!!

Mike, thanks for the reply.

I want to buy the rotors and breaks pads from NAPA and then replace them myself. Then i can ask a mechanic to replace the CV shaft.

I have a couple of questions.
1. what do you mean by Generation 3 and 4? Also, what sticky are you referring to?
2. I say the level of difficulty for starter was 3 (on a scale of 1 to 10 where 10 being max.). What do you think the level of difficult is for replacing the rotors. :)

Thanks!!


1A. Generation 3 = model years 92-96. Generation 4 = model years 97-2001.
1B. Here's the link to the post providing the generation 3 repair manual sticky:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=425159
You can also get a good description on doing the brakes at Autozone.com.
2. I would say front disk brakes are a 2 or 3. Rear drums are a bit more difficult.

Mike

1A. Generation 3 = model years 92-96. Generation 4 = model years 97-2001.
1B. Here's the link to the post providing the generation 3 repair manual sticky:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=425159
You can also get a good description on doing the brakes at Autozone.com.
2. I would say front disk brakes are a 2 or 3. Rear drums are a bit more difficult.

Mike


Mike i looked at some pictures for rotor replacement. looks like easy stuff.....
the thing is that i need to replace the break pads also.....What do you think is the difficut level for those :)

Thanks for your time!!

Mike i looked at some pictures for rotor replacement. looks like easy stuff.....
the thing is that i need to replace the break pads also.....What do you think is the difficut level for those

Thanks for your time!!

It's pretty simple. When you remove the caliper as I described above, you will see the pads held in the caliper mounting bracket. That's what Toyota calls the "torque plate". The pads just pull out from each side of the mounting bracket. They are held in there by the tension of these pad holding clips. When you pull the pads out, there will be some metal antisqueal shims on the back of each pad, if the original hardware is still on there. Just notice the order they came off the pads, so you can put them back in the same order. If these shims are too rusty or really bent up, get new ones at the dealer or do what I do. I throw them away (actually I save them in my garage) and spray Permatex Disc Brake Quiet on the back of the pads. Let it set up for about 5-10 minutes and then install the pads back on the mounting bracket. Normally, you wouldn't remove the mounting bracket if you are only installing new pads and not removing the rotors, but since you are, you may even want to replace the pads while the mounting brackets are off the car. You can't do it with the mounting brackets on or off the car. Don't forget to do one side at a time and to push the pistons back in to the calipers all the way to allow room for the new pads. You can use an old pad and a c-clamp or even a set of channel locks to do this. It really is pretty easy.

Mike

PS:Make sure you clean the new rotors thoroughly with some brake clean and some paper towels before installing them. There is some kind of an anti-rust protectorant on them which must removed prior to use, or it will become imbedded in the new pads and ruin them.

....and make sure the slider pins slide easily. They are inside the caliper between the small rubber boots. Just put your fingers on each side and push back and forth. Should slide fairly easy.

Did you know with the caliper, torque plate, pads, and rotor removed you are about a third of the way to changing an axle? Hmmm...

....and make sure the slider pins slide easily. They are inside the caliper between the small rubber boots. Just put your fingers on each side and push back and forth. Should slide fairly easy.

Did you know with the caliper, torque plate, pads, and rotor removed you are about a third of the way to changing an axle? Hmmm...


Good points.

Mike

The tires plus guy told me i need to replace both axles. How do i know that for sure? I know the CV boots are broken and have been broken for months...The CV joints make a clicking noise when i am turning the car with min. radius. Are these two signs enough to replace the axles?

I would be selling my car in 4-5 months. I don't want to sell a car which has large number of problems nor i want to hide the problems from the buyer hence i am getting this stuff fixed.

Do you guys think it's worth spending money on axles? ....Are there any safety concerns if i don't ..... How bad can it get if i don't replace them.

The tires plus guy told me i need to replace both axles. How do i know that for sure? I know the CV boots are broken and have been broken for months...The CV joints make a clicking noise when i am turning the car with min. radius. Are these two signs enough to replace the axles?

I would be selling my car in 4-5 months. I don't want to sell a car which has large number of problems nor i want to hide the problems from the buyer hence i am getting this stuff fixed.

Do you guys think it's worth spending money on axles? ....Are there any safety concerns if i don't ..... How bad can it get if i don't replace them.


If you hear the clicking noise when turning in both directions then both cv joints are bad and need to be replaced.

As far as how bad can it get, if driven long enough, eventually the joint will just come apart. That can be an unpleasant experience when turning or even going straight for that matter. The lubricant that was once held in there by the boots is probably all gone now, causing heat and excess stress on the joints. That is causing the excess wear and hence the clicking that you hear. Whether you want to risk continuing to drive like that or spend the money is really up to you.

Mike

All right. I have to get the cv axles fixed in the next few days as i am planning a long drive after that.

I looked at a few junkyards, and i am getting both axles L and R for around 70-90 bucks. There is no guarantee on the part but they are from a 2000+ camry, so fairly new....I also found a mechanic that will also replace my axles with whatever i buy. I have a couple of questions here. Everything comes down to the point that i don't want to keep this car for more than 3-4 months now and i don't want the buyer to see any problem with the axles.

1. When i go to the junkyard how will i be able to look at the axle and figure out what the condition of it is.? Ofcourse it wont look like new but all i care is that would it break in a couple of months again.

2. I know a cheaper mechanic who i have got some simple work done in the past...like replacing my radiator and so on....I don't know if he is very skilled to be able to handle this job..So i am not sure if i should go ahead with him or go to a different place (there is a price difference of 100+ bucks). The problem is that i wouldn't know if he did the job well or not as i am not aware how complicated this task is.

Thanks for your time. As you would have guessed i am running short on money. :)